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center link hitting oil pan help

retro70

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Morning, (at least it is here right now), I just finished an engine swap from a 1973 383 engine in my 1970 cuda to a 1969 440 engine after rebuild. I have been driving the car now for about 700 miles and it started leaking oil (spots on the ground). There was no sign of any oil leak for the first 300-500 miles. I put it up on the hoist and saw that the center link was rubbing against the oil pan. Could be slightly hitting there also, although there is no indication that it is. When up in the air, there is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch clearance between both. Can't really see how much when down on the ground though. The engine has a stock oil pan and the center link is also. Not everything is perfect in an engine swap I know, so here are my questions: how can I get more clearance between the center link and the oil pan?
Is there a different oil pan I can purchase that gives me more clearance? Can I do something to the suspension to give me more? Boy, any help will be greatly appreciated. BTW, before writing this, I did tighten up the pan about 75 miles ago and it started to leak around the pan again so I already tried that.

Thanks in advance.....
 
Use a crush proof oil pan gasket. Clean oil pan bolt holes with brake cleaner spray. Blow out with compressed air ( using goggles of course ) Clean and dry bolts, apply blue Loctite. This will prevent the bolts from working loose.
 
So Leo, I will do that, but, what do I do with the rubbing of the center link onto the oil pan? What would be a solution to get more of a distance between the two parts?
 
When you have it up on a hoist ( assuming it is not a drive on lift ) have someone take one of the wheels and turn it lock to lock to check for clearance problem. May just take loosening the motor mount and trans mount bolts, moving whole assembly as far as possible forward to gain clearance.
 
Thanks, yes it is a non drive on lift. I will try that.
Already ordered the crush proof oil pan gasket from Mr Gasket and when that comes in,
going for the scrape problem.
 
Are you using the same pan that was on the 383? If not, what number is on the pan that is on the 440? I have had a few New Yorker pans hit.
 
Also check your motor and transmission mounts. If they are saturated with oil they may be squashing together.
 
if it is hitting on the idler side you can install washers above the idler arm & shim it down , as suggested incorrect pan or bad mounts could be part of the probelm as well
 
challenger6pak - When the engine was rebuilt, the builder used an after market shinny chrome pan that he painted for the RB 440. I still have the 383 in tact. The 440 came from a New Yorker as the vin stamp on the motor shows CH43K9C145081. It looks like a 440 pan? I guess........

Moparleo - Thanks Leo, all mounts are brand new and not saturated. I do not have room to push this motor up to the front any more than it is.

Chryco Psycho - Will putting shims where you suggest do anything to alignment? About how much can one get away with when shimming? Just wondering......
 
Yoyu can shim the steering box a little with shims under the top bolts to tip the box down & the idle can be shimmed as far down & the bracket on the K frame will allow , this may slightly change the toe in but nothing else will be affected
 
I would drop the center link and switch the pans.

(Odd. I posted this once and the site posted it twice almost 10 minutes apart. )
 
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That is the other solution , you can lower the center link a little if it is close though
 
Thanks to you all for the help.... I think to be on the safe side I will drop the link and get a different pan. That makes me feel a little better than shimming stuff, although a great idea. Now to find the right pan :puke:
 
What is wrong with the 383 pan?
Sorry it took so long, personal problems....resolution is took 383 pan, used it and problem resolved.
New pan was repo and was much deeper crossing the center link. Pickup fit perfectly.
Thanks for the head screw on.
 
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