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Engine install question

Marlon L

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Hello, I'm almost ready to install my engine. I was just wondering on a 1973 Challenger, should I attempt to install it with the transmission attached or without? Small block 340 with 727 automatic.

Thanks,
Marlon
 

moparleo

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A'
It also matters if you are doing it the hard way or the factory way.
Best way is to drop the K-frame and install the engine on it like it was in the car, then lower the body over the compete assembly. Reinstall 4 K-frame bolts, upper balljoints and trans mount. No scratches, dents or dropped engines.

 

Challenger RTA

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I was going to put mine in from underneath. By chance I had the front of the car up about a foot or more. Then my son just happen to show up. We put the motor and manual trans together. About 1/2 hr of messing around and got it on the engine lift. One held the tail of the trans up passing over the support. It was balanced down. Lowered tail in and then lowered it all down easy. He had a jack under the trans to lift it as it came down. Mounts lined up and took a little shake and bake to get the driver side to drop all the way in.😃😃 AND I HELPED! Took 10 minutes to lower in. I did have the hood off.
 
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Ronbo73

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I did mine from below, lowering the car onto the eng/trans and K-member. It was super easy with no problems and I didn't have to remove the hood. I used rectangular tubing to bolt to the front bumper bolt holes and obviously a chain and engine hoist. If I had to do it again, that is how I would do it. Either way, be patient and take your time. Also, add as much to the firewall as you can. Once the engine is it, it's way more difficult to install the brake lines, proportioning valve and wiper motor amongst other items.
 

Spyder

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I just put a new 512 in my 72 yesterday without a helper. Left the transmission in the car when I pulled the engine. I've never done it with the tranny attached, seems a lot more difficult with the cherry picker and shop setup I have, but considering how many people like doing it that way I probably should consider it next time because I'm probably wrong. :rolleyes:

I think it's pretty easy to line up the tranny and engine. I slowly lower the engine down until it's over the mounts, put in the mount to K-frame bolts, tighten the mounts to the block, and while it's still being supported by the cherry picker with a load leveler (cheap at harbor freight and makes things WAY easier), I use a floor jack under the car to support/raise/lower the transmission. Unbolt the tranny to crossmember mount so it moves. If you put it at the right angle, you can shift the tranny forward/rear/left/right by rolling the jack a tiny bit, and up/down by pumping the handle. Being able to move both pieces has made it really easy on the handful of times I've done it. Others have way more experience than I do though.


I've never put it in from the bottom, that seems to be the easiest way if you have the clearance and space to do so.
 

Xcudame

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Really, it's not that hard either way. It basically comes down to about one or two hours difference between installing the engine and tranny together or separate. What really helps when installing an automatic transmission separate is a couple of 5/8" head bolts (that go in the lower two holes) that are an inch or two longer than factory. 4-speeds (manual) are easier with the front spline alignment tool. We used to use a cut front spline years ago before they started making the hard plastic ones.
 

Katfish

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What really helps when installing an automatic transmission separate is a couple of 5/8" head bolts (that go in the lower two holes) that are an inch or two longer than factory.
I could have really used that tip, I fought with my install the entire weekend.
Laying on my back, struggling with the scissor jack under the trans while trying to get the 2 dowels lined up.........
Complete misery
 
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