Engine problems stock 318 2 bbl

[sheetmetaldan]

Ok I have a few questions. Yesterday I was changing the dist cap and wires when I bumped the vacuum advance and the dist moved turns out the previous owner must not have tightened it down.The motor has always run a bit rough but with open manifolds I didn`t do anything to it.Now with an exhaust on I can take it for a spin up the road but like I said it`s rough.I`m sure the timing needs adjustment what is a good starting point for it? I have a new fuel tank,lines and filter and fresh gas.The only thing not new on the fuel side are the sending unit and carb.Also have new dist cap,plug wires as well. I forgot to grab a rotor but the one in there looked clean but I will replace it when I get another one. The plugs were dark but no crud/deposits on them I may replace them as well just to rule them out. Is a 035 gap about right for plugs?
When the engine warms up it will maintain a rough idle and when I try to drive it I have to keep playing with the gas pedal to keep it running lots of hesitation/stalling when giving it gas but it does start right back up easily.I am wondering if I am having accelerator pump or vacuum issues or maybe both.
Last thing I am leaking some oil out of the thing next to the distributor with one wire on it(oil sending unit?). Is there a special socket to remove it or do you just put a pair of pliers on it and go. It`s a little hard to reach and I don`t want to ruin it in my attempt to get it out. Thanks for any help!

 

[moper]

.035 is right for the plugs. I think in terms of timing you can start at 8° before Top Dead Center. In some cases you can go much higher with the initial but witht he stock 2bbl and distributor that may give you fits. So I'd start there. Then set the carburetor once the timing's set.

 

[sheetmetaldan]

Drove my car up the street today the response is getting better idles fine now when warmed up.I think most of my problems right now may be carb related. Seems like this thing just needs to be driven!
One thing I just discovered is my gas tank is not venting I removed the cap and get a big whoosh of air I wasn`t expecting trouble with the tank everything is hooked up right,vent line or vapor separator must have a blockage somewhere. If I just get a vented gas cap will that take care of the problem? Also will a tank thats not venting increase the chance of a fuel leak with increased pressure in the lines? I had a leak at the connection to the fuel pump and somewhere at the front of carb maybe from fuel line there as well I couldn`t pinpoint it and it hasn`t leaked since? Snugged up the line at the fuel pump was all it needed.

 

[moper]

Yes, cars need to be driven. Especially carbureted ones...
It's common for the evap systems to plug. What year is your car?
A vented cap will "take care of the problem" but with 10% ethanol it evaporates very quickly, and if you are curious what alcohol in fuel does, put a few cups of fuel in an open top container on a humid day (not in the sun)... It evaporates three times as fast as it used to and soaks up water like a sponge. You can see it suspended in it after a couple hours.
A leak on the pressure side has nothing to do with the vacuuma non-vented tank gets when the engine's run a while. Plugged vents on cars in the past I worked on led to stalling and an inability to re-start until the fuel cap was opend and the vacuum released. What happens is eventually the vacuum equals the suction from the pump and fuel stops pumping.