Engine/trans install
- Thread starter gtw940
- Start date
Adam
Well-Known Member
If you put it in from the bottom, yes. Everything can be in place, exhaust, starter, steering, ps pump, etc. This is how the factory did it; not leaning over the fenders. It’s not hard to do and you don’t have to remove the hood. But, going from the top I think you could possibly wrestle the eng/trans assembly in if you had a couple of helpers; you might scratch things up. I would bet you have to lay the headers in/on the K-frame and then lower the engine onto the mounts.
Adam
Well-Known Member
You only have to unbolt the upper control arms, and the torsion bars, and the struts, and the K-frame 
.
I did mine from the bottom because I had all the suspension off for a rebuild, it was surprisingly easy and I would recommend this method to others if they have the suspension off. In my case, my 440 with headers, starter, steering box, Tremec trans, hyd clutch, etc was bolted to the K-frame & went in, in one go. I was working alone and it didn’t take an hour, not including the suspension. I didn’t want to be lying under the car trying to install the trans, clutch , hyd throw out lines etc.
.I did mine from the bottom because I had all the suspension off for a rebuild, it was surprisingly easy and I would recommend this method to others if they have the suspension off. In my case, my 440 with headers, starter, steering box, Tremec trans, hyd clutch, etc was bolted to the K-frame & went in, in one go. I was working alone and it didn’t take an hour, not including the suspension. I didn’t want to be lying under the car trying to install the trans, clutch , hyd throw out lines etc.
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
It's still not conventional about how we thank of putting the engine and transmission in, but installing from the bottom like the factory did it really is the easiest and best way.
I have an 03mach1 i did from the bottom once, was fairly easy with a lift, unfortunately i no longer have a lift so over the top it is. I am thinking i only need to disconnect the steering linkage and then wrestle with the headers (dougs). If i end up speaking french, so be it!
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
If you have a helper who can guide the end of the transmission under the car, it can be done relatively easy. The person under the car should be strong as they may need to lift the tail shaft to keep it from hitting the floor. If you don't have a helper, use two pieces of cardboard under the transmission tail shaft. Cardboard is pretty low friction.
Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
I have done many installs from the bottom without a lift , far easier , header can be bolted on along with most of the wiring etc .
Chryco Psycho
Well-Known Member
Easy , just undo the nut holding the lower control arms in also remove the clip behind the bars & pry both the lower control arm & bars rearward it will come apart easily .
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
Installing from underneath really IS easier and you can have almost everything connected - headers, engine wiring harness, kickdown linkage (if automatic). Once you bolt the K member and front suspension on, you very close to being ready to fire!
1972 AAR Cuda
Well-Known Member
When installing from the bottom I have used the engine lift to raise the body, then I roll the engine, trans, and K-member with headers attached under the car and lower the body back down. It makes it much easier to keep the painted engine bay free from scratches as well as aligned everything.
Adam
Well-Known Member
You raise the front of the car, slide the eng/k-frame underneath (on a pallet or something) and lower the car onto jack stands. Then use the cherry picker to lift the engine/K-frame into place and sink the four K bolts and trans cross member.
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
Use the cherry picker to raise the front of the car up. Put the eng/k-frame/transmission on a couple moving dollies (one under the oil pan and one under the transmission pan) and slide under the car from the side. Then lower the car over the drive train onto jack stands. Then use the cherry picker to raise the engine and a floor jack under the transmission tailshaft housing.
Personally I use the rafters in my garage/barn to raise the car with a cable hoist. But that's not always an option for some.
Personally I use the rafters in my garage/barn to raise the car with a cable hoist. But that's not always an option for some.
1972 AAR Cuda
Well-Known Member
I put the engine/trans K-member on a couple car dolly's (the kind used under each tire to roll the car around - the lower the better) then run a chain across (down low under the frame across the bumper bolts). The chain is used to lift the body from the engine compartment. Once the body is high enough (the rear is on the tires) roll the engine under aligning between the frame rails - then lower the body down bolting the k-member to frame
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Well....from the bottom it shall be! Picked up my short block yesterday and the machine shop owner (e-body guru) says its way easier from underneath. He also said installing the cam bearings are worse than installing headers, glad he did that and not me! Thanks everybody for the headsup on dropping the k member.
Will take me a week or two to get rolling ( job gets in the way). Hopefully fire this thing up in December.
440, stock crank, icon pistons 10.5, TFS 270 heads, TFS intake, Davinci carb, Hedman headers, Lunati cam, Howards rollers, Harland sharps etc....all the usual suspects!
Will take me a week or two to get rolling ( job gets in the way). Hopefully fire this thing up in December.
440, stock crank, icon pistons 10.5, TFS 270 heads, TFS intake, Davinci carb, Hedman headers, Lunati cam, Howards rollers, Harland sharps etc....all the usual suspects!
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
A good while back when I was working on mine I was going to install from underneath. By happenstance I had it up like this, maybe not quite as high. One day my son just happened to show up and it happened. Motor and transmission bolted together. lifted with engine lift at about a 45 degree angle tail shaft down. picked up tail shaft to clear core support lowered down shaft into engine bay rolled back in place. Placed floor jack under tail shaft. I lowered engine while he raised tail shaft. went pretty good. Hood was off.
I had some junk in the trunk so it wouldn't teeter.
I had some junk in the trunk so it wouldn't teeter.
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I did my 340 with 518 attached from the top by myself. Wasn't that hard. I took trans mount out and when trans tailshaft got close to the ground I put a movers dolly underneath it. I had front end off the ground while I did it. I also have an old adjustable engine swivel that I kept adjusting.
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