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Engine won't Turn

aussiemark

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No worries Dave I feel your pain keep us posted with the results this is learning experience for me as well, If I was near by I'd come and give you a hand and wouldn't leave until we had it sorted.
 

moper

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If I was near by I'd come and give you a hand and wouldn't leave until we had it sorted.

x2.
 

dmc8163

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Hi guys, I posted yesterday but today I don't see it.
A)I set the initial to 12* and then the total to 32* and the rpm was 3250. When I rechecked the initial it had increased to 20*.
B)I reset the initial to 12* and locked down the distributer. At 2,000 rpm the timing was advanced to 22*.
Should I leave it at B or return to A?
Thanks, Dave
 

aussiemark

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It would be great if you could take the car to someone with a dyno then set it to obtain max power then retard it slightly for safety (bad batch of fuel, weather conditions, elevation, etc) that way you can find the optimum timing for THIS particular engine.
 
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moparleo

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If it starts ok and runs ok with 12 degrees initial timing, just lock it down and drive it until you can find someone locally to help you hands on. FYI The initial timing is set by you manually ( 12 degrees) the total timing is what the distributor advances automatically ( No manual) adjustments.
 

aussiemark

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If it starts ok and runs ok with 12 degrees initial timing, just lock it down and drive it until you can find someone locally to help you hands on. FYI The initial timing is set by you manually ( 12 degrees) the total timing is what the distributor advances automatically ( No manual) adjustments.
I agree, you can adjust the distributor (advance curve) with different tension springs lighter springs for full advance at lower rpm and heavier spring for delayed advance and I've knew guy's that weld the slot to limit the amount of total advance. I like to keep thing standard these days when I was a kid I had highly modified Chevy engines and had nothing but expensive drama.
 

dmc8163

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Thank you. I contacted HP Engines in NC. Waiting for response. Will leave it at 12* and get it to the experts. Later. Dave
 

dmc8163

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Took the Challenger out today for a brief trial run and it ran great. No further problems with the radiator fan. OMG, thanks to everyone that helped. D :)
 

DetMatt1

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I've been following along and am relieved to hear this as well. Now how about some pics???
 

dmc8163

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Photos of the 1970 Challenger R/T

ChallengerInsPhotos-11.jpgChallengerInsPhotos-9.jpgChallengerInsPhotos-7.jpgChallengerInsPhotos-5.jpgChallengerInsPhotos-4.jpg

I've been following along and am relieved to hear this as well. Now how about some pics???

ChallengerInsPhotos-4.jpg


ChallengerInsPhotos-5.jpg


ChallengerInsPhotos-7.jpg


ChallengerInsPhotos-9.jpg


ChallengerInsPhotos-11.jpg
 

DetMatt1

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Damn nice looking Challenger! I suppose I could go back in the thread but is this an original Hemi car?
 

dmc8163

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No. Clone. Originally a light blue 6 cylinder auto column car.
 

DetMatt1

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You know there's probably fewer /6 Challegers around today than Hemi powered ones? Lol!
 

dmc8163

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I have a three spoke steering wheel for the car. However, I'm 6'4" tall and 225 lbs and I had to be a contortionist to get in the car with that wheel. The steering wheel you see is an option for the car and works slightly better for me. :)


Very nice car Dave the only thing I would change is the steering wheel I'd put the standard padded 3 spoke wood rim or a rimblow on it.
 

dmc8163

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Funny you should mention that. I have another project Challenger. It is a 1973 that came with a 6 cyl. If I had the original engine I would strongly consider an all original restoration. I'm still thinking about it but in the absence of the original engine I'm thinking T/A. :)
 
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