Front Disc Brakes

[Alex Briggs]

Tore apart the front suspension and braking system last weekend. Pretty much all has to be replaced in the brake department (caliper, rotor, master cylinder/booster, etc.). Anyone have any ideas on where to get a good kit? Figured the kit would make it easier to assemble knowing all the parts will fit seamlessly.

The 74 Challenger will have a 340 pulling around 500 HP. Mainly for daily driver but the occasional "fun" drive. Do you think the OEM single piston caliper would suffice or should i look toward a 2 or 4 piston caliper setup?

Thanks for the ideas!

 

[340challconvert]

I would strongly suggest front and rear disc in a hi power car for safety. Check out this info;
Disc Brake Conversion Kits for the E-Body Dodge Challenger: 1970-1974

 

[340challconvert]

And another good article using factory parts:
DISC-O-TECH: Stop on a dime from Mopar Action and Rick Ehrenberg

 

[rogue]

I have wilwood kits on my cuda and challenger with similar power levels... they're great

 

[moparleo]

Ditto, For a higher powered, non stock vehicle I would also recommend a brake system upgrade. At least a 2 piston (inner and outer for even clamping of the rotor) on the front. Hydro-boost for low vacuum motors and repeatable braking.
Also think about beefing the lower control arms and strut rods for added stresses on hard braking.

 

[DrEamer]

Look up Doctor Diff, he has several level of upgrades that you can do. Most use some sort of OE parts, so that you don't need proprietary pads or anything when you need to get them.
Brakes

 

[Alex Briggs]

Thanks for the feedback guys. Helps a lot.

I've zoned in on the Wilwood front kit and was wondering for the back, should i absolutely stick with Wilwood? Or could i go to a different make and even go to a 1 piston setup? Just not sure how much stopping power i will need in the back and i don't want to go ahead and spend a grand that's unnecessary...

 

[340challconvert]

Alex
Speaking generally, it is usually best to stay with one company in order to maximize compatibility of design. They are usually designed to work as a system. Disparate components from different companies don’t always work best with each other. I would think, you used Wildwood on the front; use their kit for the rear. JMO

 

[moparleo]

Or not. The front do the majority of the braking. Before you do any rear conversions, drive it and see if you need it. If you were going to road race the car with lots of constant braking then yes 4 wheel discs would be good as disc brakes are superior in heat dissipation. You see 4 wheel disc brakes on everything today not because of superior braking but because the cars for the most part are lighter and disc brake systems are simpler, use less parts. This is more economical for the vehicle manufacturers(read more profitable, easier to manufacture) than drum brake systems and don't require adjustments, maintenance etc... When cars were predominantly front disc, rear drum the ratio of front brake service to rears was about 2-3 times to 1. In other words the front brake wear 2-3 times faster than the rears. You are correct that a rear conversion can be pricey . Rear axle bearing conversions(green type bearings, not the best) e-brakes, special hoses etc... They do look good .. Its only money.

 

[Alex Briggs]

Or not. The front do the majority of the braking. Before you do any rear conversions, drive it and see if you need it. If you were going to road race the car with lots of constant braking then yes 4 wheel discs would be good as disc brakes are superior in heat dissipation. You see 4 wheel disc brakes on everything today not because of superior braking but because the cars for the most part are lighter and disc brake systems are simpler, use less parts. This is more economical for the vehicle manufacturers(read more profitable, easier to manufacture) than drum brake systems and don't require adjustments, maintenance etc... When cars were predominantly front disc, rear drum the ratio of front brake service to rears was about 2-3 times to 1. In other words the front brake wear 2-3 times faster than the rears. You are correct that a rear conversion can be pricey . Rear axle bearing conversions(green type bearings, not the best) e-brakes, special hoses etc... They do look good .. Its only money.

Exactly what i was thinking. I'll see how front disc rear drums handle at first and if i like how it handles, no need in spending an extra 700+ dollars on a rear conversion kit.

 

[aussiemark]

Discs on the rear usually help with stop rear wheel lock up but if you get an adjustable proportioning valve I'm sure you could get the disc and drum combo to work well enough.

 

[340challconvert]

Good idea to use an adjustable proportioning valve with the new Wildwood front disc and factory rear drum combo.

Another suggestion; use a 7/8 wheel brake cylinder vs the stock 15/16th.
I have seen articles where this brake cylinder sometimes helps with the wheel lockup on Mopars.
From the article: "There are 7/8" wheel cylinders out there too that work on both the 10" and 11" drums, they can be used to alter the front-rear bias a little, for example, if you run 11x2.5" rear drums with the smaller 10.8" disks in the front. Those are WC37236, and they have a 7/8" bore with 3/8"-24 bolts. They came on a few years of some of the trucks and vans. But everything else ran 15/16"."
Just my thoughts!