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Help with low oil pressure

This might be a possibility.

Understanding Engine Oil Aeration​

What is Engine Oil Aeration?​

Engine oil aeration occurs when air bubbles mix with engine oil, leading to a frothy or foamy consistency. This can disrupt the oil's ability to lubricate engine components effectively, resulting in increased wear and potential engine damage.

Causes of Engine Oil Aeration​

Several factors contribute to engine oil aeration:

  • High Engine Speeds: Rapid engine revolutions can agitate the oil, introducing air bubbles.
  • Improper Oil Levels: Overfilling or underfilling the oil reservoir can cause aeration. Overfilled oil can churn excessively, while underfilled oil may draw in air.
  • Faulty Oil Pumps: Malfunctioning oil pumps can fail to maintain proper oil flow, allowing air to mix with the oil.
  • Oil Quality: Low-quality oil or incompatible oil types can lack anti-foaming properties, increasing the risk of aeration.

Effects of Engine Oil Aeration​

Aerated oil can lead to several issues:

  • Reduced Lubrication: Air bubbles disrupt the oil film, increasing friction and wear on engine parts.
  • Engine Overheating: Aerated oil does not dissipate heat effectively, leading to higher temperatures and potential thermal degradation.
  • Oil Degradation: Exposure to air accelerates oil oxidation, resulting in sludge and varnish formation.
  • Pressure Loss: Aeration can cause cavitation in the oil pump, leading to a loss of oil pressure and potential oil starvation.

Prevention of Engine Oil Aeration​

To minimize aeration:

  • Maintain proper oil levels.
  • Use high-quality oil that meets manufacturer specifications.
  • Regularly check and maintain oil pumps and lubrication systems.
  • Avoid prolonged high-speed driving when possible.
Understanding and addressing engine oil aeration is crucial for maintaining engine health and performance.
I don’t think it is an aeration problem, but that’s only my opinion based on the condition of the oil when I check it on dipstick after driving and there is no frothy or bubbly appearance to the oil. Also I do have a windage tray installed so they had to be better than no tray.
 
I don’t think it is an aeration problem, but that’s only my opinion based on the condition of the oil when I check it on dipstick after driving and there is no frothy or bubbly appearance to the oil. Also I do have a windage tray installed so they had to be better than no tray.
A bad oil pump can churn up the oil. Oil pick up tube not sealed. Oil sump location to closes or to far. You just have to go through it one step at a time. Pull valve covers, prime see what you have.
 
A bad oil pump can churn up the oil. Oil pick up tube not sealed. Oil sump location to closes or to far. You just have to go through it one step at a time. Pull valve covers, prime see what you have.
Yeah it just sucks to think that I have to remove the pan and windage tray with the engine in the car and how difficult it will be to put it all back in with no leaks. Also if there is nothing obvious after getting into the pan.🫩
 
Do what challenger rta mentioned above. You just have to pull the valve covers and the distributor. Get a good heavy duty drill and see what kind of pressure you can build.
 
Yeah it just sucks to think that I have to remove the pan and windage tray with the engine in the car and how difficult it will be to put it all back in with no leaks. Also if there is nothing obvious after getting into the pan.🫩

Do what challenger rta mentioned above. You just have to pull the valve covers and the distributor. Get a good heavy duty drill and see what kind of pressure you can build.
Yeah planning to do that and I have another oil gauge that I plan to use to see if I get a different reading than the gauge I have been using in the car.
Thanks
 
Told him I wanted the engine internals reassembled so that all I would have to do would be install the valve covers, intake , carb, timing chain cover etc myself. I assumed that the internals were all new and gone through.

"blue-printing" the engine is what most want done to their engines during a rebuild. At the factory, (or the engine-builder for the factory) they are mass producing engines, and cannot take the time to make sure everything is as perfect as possible. they get things within a reasonable tolerance, they get things close, and often, that is good enough for most passenger engines to go 100,000s of miles before they fail.

The blue printing typically includes getting things balanced, every single bearing (designed to wear and someday be replaced) actually getting replaced, measured with more accuracy, and assembled with a great deal more precision and care, than was done by the factory. Blue printed engines typically rev higher, produce more power, and last longer than their mass produced cousins.

But when a worn engine is taken to "a rebuild shop" with vague instructions, it may not be treated with the level of care and precision we all hope for. In many cases, their objective is to produce a result satisfactory to the customer with the greatest profit.

If you look at this from another perspective, we can ask what the least amount of work must be done, to get the engine running at factory specs, again. The list can be pretty short, a valve job and a new set of rings, in some cases, not even that.

So in the end, it doesn't sound like we know what level of rebuild was done to your engine. It may be possible the crankshaft and cam bearings were never replaced. It is hard to say without more data.

When you began your post suggesting you have a (I admit I presumed a blue-printed and FULLY rebuilt) engine, acting worn out after only 1000 miles, I think many of us are thinking about premature wear and an oiling issue.

Going from a not-smoking engine to a smoking one in 1000 miles does suggest something in there is worn. Any major oiling issues, or issues where little or no oil flow was occurring, may not even last 1000 miles. It's not a big deal, and I'm not trying to be critical of the OP, or their engine.

The advice I may give for a "blue printed" engine with 1000 miles on it, versus a "freshened-up" engine with (potentially) 200K miles on some of the internal wearing parts, is going to be different.

Unless you find something wrong with your oiling, you may have to live with the engine smoking and the wear. If and when you decide to have the engine "rebuilt" you may want to be clear about what you want.

If you never saw the oil light come on, while revving your engine in a burnout or flooring it up an on-ramp, chances are good you did NOT starve the engine for oil by running it dry. To make an engine wear out fast, requires running it hard and/or frequently with less oil (or old oil) than it needs.
 
Since new and/or different oil pumps have been changed and tried without much improvement. Without knowing bearing clearances or tearing it down to measure everything. How about a cracked pick-up tube.
 
"blue-printing" the engine is what most want done to their engines during a rebuild. At the factory, (or the engine-builder for the factory) they are mass producing engines, and cannot take the time to make sure everything is as perfect as possible. they get things within a reasonable tolerance, they get things close, and often, that is good enough for most passenger engines to go 100,000s of miles before they fail.

The blue printing typically includes getting things balanced, every single bearing (designed to wear and someday be replaced) actually getting replaced, measured with more accuracy, and assembled with a great deal more precision and care, than was done by the factory. Blue printed engines typically rev higher, produce more power, and last longer than their mass produced cousins.

But when a worn engine is taken to "a rebuild shop" with vague instructions, it may not be treated with the level of care and precision we all hope for. In many cases, their objective is to produce a result satisfactory to the customer with the greatest profit.

If you look at this from another perspective, we can ask what the least amount of work must be done, to get the engine running at factory specs, again. The list can be pretty short, a valve job and a new set of rings, in some cases, not even that.

So in the end, it doesn't sound like we know what level of rebuild was done to your engine. It may be possible the crankshaft and cam bearings were never replaced. It is hard to say without more data.

When you began your post suggesting you have a (I admit I presumed a blue-printed and FULLY rebuilt) engine, acting worn out after only 1000 miles, I think many of us are thinking about premature wear and an oiling issue.

Going from a not-smoking engine to a smoking one in 1000 miles does suggest something in there is worn. Any major oiling issues, or issues where little or no oil flow was occurring, may not even last 1000 miles. It's not a big deal, and I'm not trying to be critical of the OP, or their engine.

The advice I may give for a "blue printed" engine with 1000 miles on it, versus a "freshened-up" engine with (potentially) 200K miles on some of the internal wearing parts, is going to be different.

Unless you find something wrong with your oiling, you may have to live with the engine smoking and the wear. If and when you decide to have the engine "rebuilt" you may want to be clear about what you want.

If you never saw the oil light come on, while revving your engine in a burnout or flooring it up an on-ramp, chances are good you did NOT starve the engine for oil by running it dry. To make an engine wear out fast, requires running it hard and/or frequently with less oil (or old oil) than it needs.

Since new and/or different oil pumps have been changed and tried without much improvement. Without knowing bearing clearances or tearing it down to measure everything. How about a cracked pick-up tube.
. I’m pretty sure the pick up tube looked ok when I put it in, but anything is possible. How do you make sure the pick up tube is in the correct position anyway? If I remember correct , I may have tightened it slightly past level so when I put the pan on , it would push up and level the pick up(disk with screen)as the pan moved into place. Some people mentioned that” the pick up disk/screen could be too close to the bottom of the pan” . I don’t think that is possible because there is the half circle piece of metal at the bottom that keeps the pick up screen from resting fully against the pan bottom. Also another reason I personally don’t think the pickup position is causing my problem, is because I have low pressure at lower rpm’s such as at idle when more oil should be available in the pan for the tube to pick up. A crack in the pipe or possibly a leak at the end where the tube threads into the block could still be a cause.
 
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