I need help!

[sheetmetaldan]

I posted recently about my wiring issues. Im posting again if anyone can help me out. Here is my dilemma I had someone install a painless (PAINFULL) wiring harness.( THe original fuseblock terminals were badly corroded and giving me problems so I went for modern fuses.) When I Got my car back my gauges & dimmer switch and interior lights were not working. I recently dug into my dash and found that my dimmer switch connection was completely cut! So I reattached the wires to the connector hoping for the best but it still doesn’t work.
My question is this, is there a way to simply run a new power wire to my gauges and interior lights? Trying to figure out what this guy did to my wiring is beyond my abilities. All my gauges & interior lights prior to this were working so I know they did work. As it stands now the car starts and runs but no gauges and interior lights. I don’t want to make a bad situation worse by messing with what he has done! Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[larry4406]

I recall the plastic panel with the switches has a metal grounding tab on one of the lower attaching screws. It’s been 30 years so I might be wrong.

Have you checked your grounds?

 

[sheetmetaldan]

I recall the plastic panel with the switches has a metal grounding tab on one of the lower attaching screws. It’s been 30 years so I might be wrong.

Have you checked your grounds?

Yes I’ve checked grounds aren’t the issue thanks

 

[Katfish]

Dash lights should be simple.
Factory wiring is Orange for the lights, run a power on wire from light switch to trigger a relay supplying power to the Orange wire.
Then when light switch is flipped, everything on the Orange feed will be powered up.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Using a fused power wire to the dimmer in & out to the orange originally circuit will restore the lights , factory gauges need a power wire to the volt regulator sending 5v to the gauges

 

[sheetmetaldan]

Dash lights should be simple.
Factory wiring is Orange for the lights, run a power on wire from light switch to trigger a relay supplying power to the Orange wire.
Then when light switch is flipped, everything on the Orange feed will be powered up.

Thank you I think I have the gauge lights figured out. I started to look at my gauge cluster I have power to the Alt gauge (all I have at the moment is a simple test light) the needle on the alt gauge doesn’t move at all. If I turn on the directional shouldn’t the needle twitch a little with a blinker on? . I did put in a voltage limiter from RTE Engineering years ago. So I’m hoping that kept my gauges from getting cooked.

Using a fused power wire to the dimmer in & out to the orange originally circuit will restore the lights , factory gauges need a power wire to the volt regulator sending 5v to the gauges

thanks Chryco & Katfish I’ll need to figure out a good 5V wire to run to the gauges and where exactly to splice it in to get power to the gauges. I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I progress! Thanks for all you help guys!

 

[Katfish]

For clarity, you don’t need a separate 5V source.
The RTE regulator is powered by 12V and it supplies the 5V.

 

[sheetmetaldan]

For clarity, you don’t need a separate 5V source.
The RTE regulator is powered by 12V and it supplies the 5V.

So I need to find 12V and bring it to the RTE regulator, does that give power to the entire gauge cluster?

 

[Katfish]

Correct, the RTE supplies 5V to the gas, oil and temp gauges.
Those 3 are the only things that needs to be connected to RTE output.

 

[Challenger RTA]

If your headlight are working, there is power to the dimmer switch. Check the dimmer switch plug for power.

The power comes from spliced one to the headlight sw to the dimmer sw. Now that is factory wiring, not sure about Painless wiring.

The switches might be the problem check them.

 

[sheetmetaldan]

Just checked I have power from the headlight switch into the Dimmer SW. but no power when I check the other two terminals on the dimmer switch connection? I even removed the dimmer & used jumpers to bypass it in case the switch is bad.
On a positive note I did run a 12V jumper to the RTE voltage limitor & my fuel gauge came alive, I assume the temp gauge will work as well once I start my car. Just need to sort out the dimmer issue.

 

[Challenger RTA]

By chance did you check the fuse for the panel lights or is it hooked up?

 

[sheetmetaldan]

By chance did you check the fuse for the panel lights or is it hooked up?

I did check all the fuses look good

 

[Deathproofcuda]

Just checked I have power from the headlight switch into the Dimmer SW. but no power when I check the other two terminals on the dimmer switch connection? I even removed the dimmer & used jumpers to bypass it in case the switch is bad.
On a positive note I did run a 12V jumper to the RTE voltage limitor & my fuel gauge came alive, I assume the temp gauge will work as well once I start my car. Just need to sort out the dimmer issue.

@sheetmetaldan

If you have power to the inlet terminal of the dimmer switch and do not have power at the center terminal, then the contacts may need to be cleaned or the switch is bad.

When the dimmer switch is turned all the way counter-clockwise, past the "bump" or "step" position in the switch, then there should be continuity between terminal D and the metal body of the switch. This provides a ground connection for the dome light circuit.

The dimmer switch provides a ground, not power supply, to the dome light circuit. Therefore, you will never see a connection between the inlet power feed to the switch and the D terminal.

I just went through this with my dimmer switch, and had it rebuilt by another member here @devinism

He turned it around very quickly and I would definitely recommend him to anyone else needing this service.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Here is a a little more wiring on the dome light hope it helps and not hinder. You only have the dome light on the top. The driver's panel conceals the the plug for the rear body harness. The wiring travels back to the trunk and the dome light harness plugs in there. at the wheel well. Then goes up through the sail panel to the dome light. The diagram shows just how there connected. Do the wipers work? Meaning is the switch panel grounded?

 

[sheetmetaldan]

Here is a a little more wiring on the dome light hope it helps and not hinder. You only have the dome light on the top. The driver's panel conceals the the plug for the rear body harness. The wiring travels back to the trunk and the dome light harness plugs in there. at the wheel well. Then goes up through the sail panel to the dome light. The diagram shows just how there connected. Do the wipers work? Meaning is the switch panel grounded? View attachment 141544View attachment 141543

Wipers do work but do not park themselves when I shut them off. I gave up on the dimmer for now, I think I’m closer to getting the gauges and instrument lights working so I’m focusing on those first. Quick question. I’m trying to run a new 12V wire to the voltage limiter im just not sure which wire to cut into? i know it needs to be a wire that’s only powered when the key is on. Should I cut into a wire from the headlight switch and use that? Thanks again for everyone walking me through this I really appreciate it!

 

[sheetmetaldan]

Well connecting to the headlight switch was a bad idea the fuel gauge now works when I turn on the headlights ! I’m gettin tired & making poor choices! Lol