ignition switch

[Oystercopy]

Has anyone discovered an ignition switch that is well made, aftermarket? This will be the 3rd one I've put in this car, and it appears that most of the aftermarket switches have one problem or another. I just put this one in less than a year ago, but I've always noticed that it does not always want to stay running after I start it, which is the case here again tonight. It seems the key just has to be in the "right" position for it to stay running, which is so damn irritating. I've noticed that it will crank, but not always run until I let the key go fully to the idle position, which I know is not correct. I know it should start and then run, but doesn't always until I let the key fully back. That tends to indicate that there is a disconnect inside the switch somewhere. I hear from mechanics all the time that they will put in 5 parts until they find one that works right, which is just unbelievable to me.

Anyway, thanks for any advice.
OC

 

[moparleo]

Check the ballast resistor. The key mechanism. Electrical is either on or off. unless you have a ground issue. Check that.
Unlikely to be the switch.

 

[Oystercopy]

Check the ballast resistor. The key mechanism. Electrical is either on or off. unless you have a ground issue. Check that.
Unlikely to be the switch.

Thanks Leo but I jumped out both the ballast resistors. No change.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Lets just say for now it's not the ignition switch. Bulkhead connectors and the under column Molex connector. check for loose or corraded connection.

Keep in mind maybe a broken wire or bad ground.

 

[mopar jack]

I have this same problem with my 71 barracuda and believe it is the ignition switch. I have had original switches fail the same way. I believe the problem is that when you rotate the key against the return spring it tries to push the body apart and causes poor contact on the start contacts when you release the key the contacts return and the run contacts connect allowing the car to start.

 

[Oystercopy]

Yep, that's what I was thinking too Jack...

 

[Challenger RTA]

Yep, that's what I was thinking too Jack...

If you find out what it is. Post what you find. It will help others.

 

[mopar jack]

I have had intermittent problems with aftermarket ignition switches at the connector. I usually pull the connectors and squeeze the ends to make a tighter connection.

 

[Oystercopy]

OK, so I ordered one today from Summit Racing. They have the Standard Motor Products brand of switch, which has a 3 year warranty on the part. I believe it has the black and red wire out of the pigtail, the way Jack was showing. Will report back once I install it, which will be the weekend at the earliest.

 

[Katfish]

Following along

 

[72RoadRunnerGTX]

OK, so I ordered one today from Summit Racing. They have the Standard Motor Products brand of switch, which has a 3 year warranty on the part. I believe it has the black and red wire out of the pigtail, the way Jack was showing. Will report back once I install it, which will be the weekend at the earliest.

Some cautionary notes on the later replacement switches with the extended battery feed and accessory leads. May want to consider replacing the Molex connections altogether, replace with something that can handle the current.

 

[Challenger RTA]

72RoadRunnerGTX has presented this before. It would be advisable to change at the least the extended battery feed and accessory leads.​

The other connections usually are not a problem because they are low current carrying circuits. But they can corraded and come loose over time.

This is the link for the connectors. https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors

Video.

 

[Oystercopy]

OK well the new switch DID NOT fix the run problem... oh my gosh, now what? In fact, the two switches looked pretty close to identical, so the old one may have been a Standard Motor Products also! Most trouble I had was realizing I needed to remove the outer sleeve on the locking wheel, prior to being able to get to the pin to knock it out! So, back to square one!

 

[Challenger RTA]

I've always noticed that it does not always want to stay running after I start it

Bad Ballast resistor. That really sounds like the problem. As moparleo mentioned. Or the feed to it.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Would you elaborate a bit on the starting issue?
1 You turn the key to start position. Then as it returns to the run position it shuts off.

2 You turn the key to the start position. It is running for a little bit, meaning more than a few seconds.

 

[Challenger RTA]

In any event the connections need to be checked.
1 1st check what you did last. Install of ign sw.
2 Check molex connector with test light. While cycling thru the functions.
12Y start Energizes starter relay
12BK ACC
12DBL IGN 1 RUN Feed to ballast resistor.
12BR IGN 2 Start Feed directly to coil.
12R Battery Feed to the ign sw that feeds every thing that is switch. Not likely the problem but check for loss of power.
Check connectors on both side of the molex .

Next the bullhead connector. 22 and 23. check both sides of firewall.

This is a process of elimination.
Hear again don't forget about the ground when you get through it.

 

[Oystercopy]

I will absolutely recheck my steps and make sure I jump out the ballast resistors. I'm wondering, are those even needed with electronic ignition?

 

[Challenger RTA]

jump out the ballast resistors

Only do temporary. The ballast resistor reduces the voltage to the coil when running. The start position applies full battery voltage when starting. Maybe for a few minutes. would be ok. The coil will burn up.

 

[Challenger RTA]

I will absolutely recheck my steps and make sure I jump out the ballast resistors. I'm wondering, are those even needed with electronic ignition?

Yes!

 

[Oystercopy]

OK, jumped out both ballast resistors; no change. To answer one of the questions here, the engine cranks, but never starts, regardless of what position the key (ignition) switch is in. I am going to remove the resistors from the firewall and look at them to see if any of the coils are broken. They definitely look old. A buddy told me that he wasn't sure you could bypass them the way I did, which was to make male-ended jumpers and put those inside the harness connectors (without it connected to the resistors at all).

Question: will having the resistors disconnected entirely be the reason it won't start? Do they HAVE to be connected and jumped out, or is simply jumping out the harness OK? I realize I don't want to run the motor for any length of time or the coil might burn up, but I just want to see it run.