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New Member looking for a mechanic in Arizona

Manifest0z

New Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2025
Messages
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Location
Tucson, AZ
Hi I just joined the forum. I have a 73 Challenger Rallye that I inherited from my uncle when he passed. He was only part way through completing the project and I'm looking for a mechanic in Arizona or a shop that can finish the car. I believe it has a crate motor from Indy Cylinder Heads. The chassis has already been re-enforced. It has 4 wheel disc brakes. I'm told the engine fired up a few years ago. It needs a wiring harness, steering column and a bit more. It's been sanded down to bear metal and has a light coat of rust on it. I have all of the original parts cataloged and in separate containers.

If anyone knows of a mechanic or shop in Arizona that works on E-Bodies please let me know?

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Sorry for your loss.
Sentimental value?
Not to be a jerk, but you'll probably pay 2-3x having someone do all the work to complete the car, compared to selling what you have and buying the same exact car already done.
 
Welcome to the site from Arkansas!
Nice project, keep us posted on it.
Sorry to hear of your loss.
 
Welcome to FEBO. You gain came with a lose. It's at the good point. It's at the point it's at now it needs attention ASAP.

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When you get body and paint done. You will be at this point. Having spent 25K
At this point:
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"Next installed are the door latches, window seals, window regulators, and the glass. Before any upholstery is installed, every car passes through a water leak test booth, which is the length of three cars. Highly-pressured water is directed at the top, bottom, and sides of the car as it travels through the dark booth. An inspector riding inside the car looks for leaks, using a flashlight, and notes any problems on a heavy paper inspection form."

E Body Assembly Sequence
ASSEMBLY SEQUENCE:
(some variation with different body types)
(from bare painted body shell)
Spray radiator saddle blackout
Rocker panel pinchweld blackout (if applicable)
Front frame rail side blackout (if applicable)

1. trunk weatherstrip
2. body rubber bumpers
3. trunk latch mechanism
4. hood latches & release mechanisms
5. main body brake & fuel tubing
6. fuel tank & fuel hose connections
7. emissions tubes & hose connections (if applicable)
8. inner cowl insulation pad
9. firewall insulation pad
10. swing pedal(s)
11. brake booster (if applicable)
12. master cylinder
13. defroster duct
14. kick panel insulation pads
15. LH vent box (if applicable)
16. E-brake pedal assembly & front cable
17. wiper mechanism
18. wiper motor
19. heater box assembly
20. cowl vent screens (if applicable)
21. accelerator pedal & cable
22. dash assembly (completely assembled outside
of car including instrument cluster, dash pad, glove
box liner, radio, speaker, wiring, etc.)
23. Vent pull cables, defroster & vent cables
24. proportioning valve & metering block (if applicable)
25. firewall brake tubing
26. starter relay
27. forward lamp harness
28. engine harness
29. starter wiring
30. washer bottle & hoses
31. ballast resistor
32. voltage regulator
33. horn relay (Bbody cars)
34. horns
35. heater hoses
36. headlights
37. fender inner splash shields (front & rear of wheel)
38. rear suspension stop bumpers
39. rear seat belts (some bolt tips get undercoating)
40. rear shocks bolted in at top only & compressed
41. grille & headlight doors
42. front bumper
43. front valance (if applicable) with directionals
44. front & rear side marker lamps
45. rear bumper
46. radio antenna
47. fender emblems (if applicable)
48. rear of fender splash shields
49. undercoat wheelwells
50. exterior emblems
51. windshield & backlite stainless trim
52. windshield wiper arms & blades
53. other exterior trim
54. taillights
55. mid body/rear lamp wiring harness
56. dome lamp wiring harness
57. shoulder harness clips (if applicable)
58. rear grip strips (Bbody)
59. headliner
60. roofrail c-channels
61. roofrail weatherstrips
62. windshield & backlite moulding clips
63. windshield & backlite
64. upper control arms on body
65. fuel hose clamped on body side fuel tubing
with keystone crimp clamp
66. install rear leaf springs front only
67. position rear end housing on springs
68. loosely fasten u-bolts
69. lift rear axle into position and install shackles
70. connect e-brake cables
71. connect brake line tubing & hose
72. DRIVETRAIN SUBASSEMBLE
a. K-member
b. engine
c. carb(s)
d. starter
e. alternator
f. fan & fan clutch
g. power steering pump (if applicable)
h. belts
i. motor mounts
j. trans & related hardware
k. lower control arms
l. strut rods
m. center link, idler arm, tie rods
n. steering box & pitman arm
o. fuel pump and tubing
p. fan blade
q. radiator hoses

73. drop body onto drivetrain subassembly
74. connect heater hoses
75. install trans crossmember
76. install driveshaft
77. connect shift linkages
78. install z-bar (if applicable)
79. connect clutch linkage (if applicable)
80. plug in electrical connections to engine
81. position fan shroud over fan blade
82. install radiator & connect hoses
83. connect trans cooler (if applicable)
84. bolt up fan shroud
85. install torsion bars
86. install exhaust system
87. install rear valance (if applicable)
88. set car on the ground
89. install & align door and quarter glass
90. install steering column
91. install carpeting
92. install seat belts
93. install quarter interior trim panels
94. install rear seat
95. install console (if applicable)
96. install front seat(s)
97. install trunk mat
98. install spare tire
99. install bumper jack


There are many different sequences of assembly possible.
Sometimes I'll jump from one area to another depending on parts available or other road blocks.
There are cases where the wrong order will give you headaches though!
This from a thread. Assembly line
 
Welcome to FEBO from the desert. I'm in the Southeast corner of Arizona. You have inherited a Challenger that really needs a lot of work. I don't know anyone around here I'd trust to work on such a project. That's why I work on all my projects myself!

Do you have any technical knowledge to do most the work yourself? Nothing good is cheap anymore.

Here's a quick list of what needs to be done:

Drivetrain pulled
Any body work that needs repaired
Body painted (which also means k-member and suspension parts) sanding, primer, paint, sanding, more paint
Wiring installed (including missing clips, engine harness, headlight harness, dash harness, tail light harness)
Entire brake set of brake lines and master cylinder
Glass installed
New moulding and weatherstripping
Headliner installed
Dash and dash pad with heater/AC installed
Carpet installed
Interior panels
Seats (do they need new covers? Do you have the front seat backs?)
Drivetrain reinstalled and gone through enough to ensure everything is sound (fluids checked/added)
Radiator with the correct flow electric fans and coolant hoses. Plus coolant
Head light buckets and grill install
Tail lights.

Katfish is correct, you're looking at a ton of money if you do it yourself and five tons of money if you farm all the work out.
 
MEXICO!
Ay, ay, ay, ay, /// Eye, yai, yai, yai,
Canta y no llores, /// Do sing and don't cry,
Porque cantando se alegran, /// Because it is by singing that they do gladden
Cielito lindo, los corazones. /// Pretty darling, the heart.
 
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It's at the point it's at now it needs attention ASAP.
What EXCUDAME said is in short of what to do. There is lot of work that got it to the point where it's at. One secret of life is. You have to work for what you get. But you have to work to keep it.

The rust looks like flash rust that has sat and not treated. If it goes any longer it's going to be deep.
If it were me at this point. I would take a 1/2 hr or hr a day if you are busy. You would be surprised what you get done. Use DA or palm sander or a wire wheel. Starting with 80 grit or 60. See how it cleans up. 80 sometimes wear down to quick. Use 60 with light pressure as you go might have to make a few passes.

Start with the fenders and hood then remove. Then do the inner side of fenders and inner fenders. I would the do doors and then the roof. Then 1/4 and trunk lid.
I say to do it in that order. But treating each part as completed for the day from bottom up. Think as it as being dipped an even treatment.

What to treat with.
This can be found at a farm supply.
Mix this as a 50-50 mix. It is about 50% strength phosphoric acid . Doing so will make it 25-30% mixture. Just what is needed. Mix it as you need it.
Use in an open area and or PPE. I use a trigger sprayer to apply. Makes a fine mist you don't want to breath.
It can be wiped on or sprayed with trigger sprayer or pump sprayer. Use in a well ventilated area. I did it outside. It does burn a little when in cuts. I used safety glasses when spraying. Makes a fine mist. I washed as soon as I was done. Had no problems just take care.
Word of Cation:
Always add acid to water, not water to acid, to prevent dangerous splashes and reactions. This method ensures that the heat generated during mixing is safely absorbed by the water.

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Mix this as a 50-50 mix. It is about 50% strength phosphoric acid . Doing so will make it 25-30% mixture. Just what is needed. Mix it as you need it.
Use in an open area and or PPE. I use a trigger sprayer to apply. Makes a fine mist you don't want to breath.
Of course remove any heavy scale or rust.

Clover Patch 1 gal. Milkstone Remover​

Word of Cation:
Always add acid to water, not water to acid, to prevent dangerous splashes and reactions. This method ensures that the heat generated during mixing is safely absorbed by the water.
This what it looks like when done. I knocked of the black flake oxide and did do a rinse. I rinsed because there was a tacky residue and want to prime and apply bed liner. In most cases there would be a 2K primer applied.
This is what the truck frame look like.
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Black iron oxide flakes.

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If you need help getting rid of the flash rust and applying some primer Personal Message me (the little envelope top of the header) and we can set something up. Because Challenger RTA is correct, that rust has to go, and sooner the better! It's pretty dry here (low humidity) but things still rust. Once you get some good primer on the car we can go over all the other things.

Remember, this was your uncle's car and it's a special labor of love! 🙂
 
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