New Points / coil or pertronix?

[1bolt@atime]

O.K. , Never had this happen, # 4 plug is not firing, new plug is spanking clean after 5 mins of run time.
Checked wire, resistance o.k. put new plug outside of cyl and no spark. Changed wire with brand new & new plug- still no spark.
Checked brand new cap and rotor - no spark residue on under cap connection on #4.
Getting frustrated, other plugs are getting spark - switch wires with plugs that are firing - still no work on # 4.

Should I get new coil, new distributor or switch to petronix system?

Thanks

 

[AUSTA]

Have you checked the lobe on No 4 position are the points opening & is the coil sparking when at no 4

 

[1bolt@atime]

good point, I will check to see if lobe is damaged.

Thanks

 

[moparleo]

If you still have ignition points, check the dwell with a tach/dwell meter while cranking the engine, with the cap and rotor removed of course. This will show any lobe wear or shaft wear while cranking. You should get a constant reading if the lobes or center shaft are still in good condition. Really distributors are very reasonable. There is no reason other than having a car that has been restored and you want points for judging purposes.

 

[DetMatt1]

For what it's worth I converted my two drivers from stock points to Pertronix 1 systems with the Flamethrower coils and otherwise retained the stock look under the hood. Performance was improved and I haven't had any issues with either system.

 

[1bolt@atime]

Thanks all,

I think I am just going to pull the dist. and replace it with Pertronix dist and new coil. This is a driver and with a dist that is 45+ years old, I do not want to have to re-fix this again.
Everyone agree that for a driver the Pertronix is the one to go with?

 

[MOPARMITCH]

Yes, What Detmat1 says. I have used Pertonix 2 and 3 with no issues. You will probably have also to replace the coil and bypass the ballast resistor. I used their black coil and removed the stickers. This system will fit nicely inside your stock distributor, and look original as long as you heat shrink the now, two wires that exit it.

 

[1bolt@atime]

Have you checked the lobe on No 4 position are the points opening & is the coil sparking when at no 4

Great detective work Austa, I pulled the dist tonight - it appears the shaft is slightly bent.

Thanks again.

 

[DetMatt1]

How does that happen?? Have you had it out recently?

 

[1bolt@atime]

Yep, I did not want to post a long, too much info post earlier - just what was happening with the loss of spark to # 4. I had the tranny rebuilt and since it was coming out I decided to pull it as a unit with the engine. That way I could detail the engine compartment, engine and replace the water pump. Apparently the distributor got bumped going back into the engine bay. It was not hard at all, just cracked the cap - did not really think much about it until Austa mentioned checking the lobe. I am still mystified how the shaft got bent with such a minor bump. Anyway it gives me a reason to get rid of the points. Plus it was an easier fix than the road my thoughts were going down. ( cracked ring, bent valve, burnt valve $$$$$$$$ )

 

[js29]

glad you found the problem! but a valve, ring,cam,or any internal failure would not stop the plug from firing. you would still have spark at the plug.

 

[halifaxhop]

The cam shaft part of the distributor shaft is actually the weak point. Does not take much to bend them and it wobbles then on the points or ecu pickup.