prop valve questions

[70challengerdane]

im in the process of putting discs from a 72 RR on my 70 challenger and i have the spindles, calipers, and rotors. the rotors are turned already. i was wondering what proportioning valve to get (and where to get one). ive been told to get one but i dont know any more than that. i havent started putting it together yet but im going to get the master cylinder soon and im gonna start putting the spindles on soon. ive never done this swap before and im not sure what all i need for it. if anyone knows more about the prop valve that would really help thanks!

 

[ramenth]

I'd get an adjustable one from a parts house like Summit or Jegs. This will allow you to fine tune the brake proportioning from front to back. They're fairly cheap and usually better than trying to track down an OE style one which has been sitting around for years getting full of crud and rotting the o-rings.

 

[scatpackkid]

I'd give Inline Tube a call. They have everything you need for brakes.

 

[shadango]

Was in the same boat a year ago.....swapped in disks from an 80 New Yorker (the big disks).

I ended up with a summit adjustable prop valve....had all sorts of issues getting the damn thing ionstalled without a leak (my tubing skills need work LOL)......I also installed rear brake cylinders from a Dodge pickup (older model).......and it turns out that I am running the prop valve wide open with no lockup issues at all.

Go figure.

I have manual brakes, using the newer style aluminum master cylinder.

Have been pleased with the overall combo so far....

 

[70challengerdane]

ok thanks that helps cause i checked on the schumcks website and they didnt have them for my application and i wasnt sure if i was misunderstanding something or what haha thanks guys!

 

[Brads70]

My set up is very similar to Shandango's I used Dr Diff aluminum master and the truck rear wheel cylinders and a wilwood adjustable P-valve. Brakes work great lock up wise! Brake pad suck as the fade bad but that's another story. LOL Hope this helps ya some!

 

[cudarick]

You colld use aspen or volre valves still availible from advance auto parts

 

[70challengerdane]

thanks guys yeah that does help... as far as brake fade goes.. is it strictly a disc thing? cause currently i have power drums on my 71 coronet and with the exception of high speed and panic stops, its stops fine and the pedal has very little travel and i never notice fade... stopping from high speeds takes a while but ive never (that ive noticed) had the pedal really close to the floor... im assuming ill have to get used to pedal fade with the discs...

 

[Brads70]

The pads on my car came with the car, so I have no idea what they are? They fade bad when heated up ( ie panic stops) I'd recomend getting pads from Firm Feel as you are close to them. I have brand new pads( not even installed) from them and was going to install them over the winter but have gone a different route. I'm installing Dodge Viper calipers and C-Body spindles and rotors. I like/want lots of brake!
http://www.firmfeel.com/carbonme_e.htm
Some informative info on spindle swaps and brake upgrades. I put the bigger rotors and spindles ( 73 and up E, A-Body have the bigger bearing)and caliper bracket on . I see you have already bought rotors though? Maybe gather parts for a future upgrade? Oh, and the adjustable P-Valve is plumbed only for the rear brakes.
http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...apping_a_and_b_disc_brake_spindles/index.html
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...d_b_disc_brake_spindles/chassis_id_chart.html

 

[70challengerdane]

yeah for 100 i got the spindles callipers rotors and little bits from a 72 road runner. i turned the rotors on the lathe and i have new ball joints for the spindles i just wasnt sure about the mastercylinder stuff and the prop valve... i figure even the lesser discs are better then my drums haha where is firm feel located?

 

[70challengerdane]

oh cool theyre in vancouver!

 

[70challengerdane]

so not to dig up a dead thread but at this point i have all my brakes installed, fron discs, rear drums, factory drum or disc distribution block, and a disc master.. everythings bled, and my pedal still goes to the floor.. if i pump it up itll keep it from going to the floor but if i let it sit again it goes right back down to the floor. any ideas?? new master, calipers, wheel cylinders, and everythings been bled. whats going on? thanks everyone for the previous help

 

[moparleo]

Not to be insulting but sometimes its worth it to take it to a brake shop to be vacuum bled and adjusted. For a few bucks you can give someone else your headache........just a thought

 

[70challengerdane]

yeah i hear ya lol the main problem is i dont have a trailer or anything so itd have to be towed, and being the parts guy at an auto shop, ive seen upsell first hand and have a hard time trusting even the honest shops haha a guy at my work suggested bleeding the outlets in the distribution block.. he explained why but it sorta went over my head and so far the freeall and pb havent broken the lines loose haha but the upside to not taking it to a shop is that i havent yet, so if i can manage to do it all myself thatll be something for me to feel good about haha but ya never know lol maybe ill give in eventually

 

[Moparparts]

I have valve PM me

 

[70challengerdane]

well at the moment im still trying to get the lines off without ruining them but ill keep it in mind

 

[Brads70]

If you have no leaks I'd suspect the master has gone bad?
P.S. my Viper caliper swap worked out great!

 

[70challengerdane]

well i just got a new (reman) master a week ago cause i thought the same thing but its behaving exactly like the one before which worked when it was on my 71 coronet.. so im very puzzled lol good to hear the viper swap worked what spindles did you use?

 

[ramenth]

Did you bench bleed the master?

 

[70challengerdane]

yeah to the best of my abilities lol and i bled the lines at the master after bench bleeding.. which worked fine when i replaced my corolla master cylinder.. annd the master i had on before that was full of fluid and working and i just took lines off and all the fluid stayed in so i wasnt worried about bench bleeding it cause it was already bled fine i thought... perhaps both were inadequately bled?? maybe ill rebleed the master??