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Sounds bad

7DCUDA383A

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1st start up , sounds real bad , I know I put a video up of the rockers loose , I have know idea any thoughts , it had 75 oil pressure when start up after idle down around 70.
 

Xcudame

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That's a lot of tapping noise for sure! 70 psi at idle? What's your idle speed in the video? Also, remind me what oil and weight are you using? What exhaust is on it (i.e. mufflers)?
 

Ronbo73

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Hard to really hear exactly where the sound is coming from in the video, better being there. But. I would remove the valve covers and check to see if there is any oil up there. Oil should travel up and into the rocker shafts then leak out of them into the rockers to keep it all oiled up there. I would make sure that the holes in the shafts are aligned properly with mounts with the oil holes and that the rockers are aligned with the pushrods. Maybe the rockers are swapped and or that the pushrods are loose? There should be holes in the rocker shafts that align with the shaft mounts. Pull the valve covers off and the distributor. Prime the engine using a 5/16" Allen and corded electric drill. That way you can see the oil come into the heads. You may have blocked oil passages, worst care scenario. The photo is what I used to prime my engine. It came out of a mid 90's ford taurus auto transmission, its a 5/16" x 13" Allen.
IMG_8826.JPG

I'm sorry but I don't remember if you rebuilt the engine or not but maybe the lifters are not getting oil. Were the lifters soaked in a bucket of oil so they would be full when installed?

I had a set of heads that were machined and once assembled the valve stems were not all at the same height. That didn't seem correct so I didn't use them. But maybe yours are the same way and you may need adjustable or custom push rods to make up the difference.

Did you ever find what caused the engine to turn over and get stuck when you were manually turning it over? Maybe look into that also.

I'm sure there are other things to look at and I'm sure you will get some others to answer. I would not run the engine again until you go through it carefully and then run it only to see if what you did fixes it.
 

Challenger RTA

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Drain oil and check! Here again eliminate any possibility of problems. Pull remove rockers check for bent shaft, push rods and keeping everything in order. Check and observe through push rod hole lifter condition. Use a rod or other to see if one is weak. The other would be pull the oil pan check rods and crank. A removal of the intake is what I would also do. Then PRIME the motor with the valve covers off to observe the flow if not even do it fist. That be the problem oil pump not picking up oil.

it had 75 oil pressure when start up after idle down around 70.
Where is it going?


By the way keep your posts on this thread. So were not looking elsewhere at past issues on this. Might help us help you diagnose the problem. I scroll back to review and sometimes it hits me or others. Thanks
 
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7DCUDA383A

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Hard to really hear exactly where the sound is coming from in the video, better being there. But. I would remove the valve covers and check to see if there is any oil up there. Oil should travel up and into the rocker shafts then leak out of them into the rockers to keep it all oiled up there. I would make sure that the holes in the shafts are aligned properly with mounts with the oil holes and that the rockers are aligned with the pushrods. Maybe the rockers are swapped and or that the pushrods are loose? There should be holes in the rocker shafts that align with the shaft mounts. Pull the valve covers off and the distributor. Prime the engine using a 5/16" Allen and corded electric drill. That way you can see the oil come into the heads. You may have blocked oil passages, worst care scenario. The photo is what I used to prime my engine. It came out of a mid 90's ford taurus auto transmission, its a 5/16" x 13" Allen.
View attachment 139043

I'm sorry but I don't remember if you rebuilt the engine or not but maybe the lifters are not getting oil. Were the lifters soaked in a bucket of oil so they would be full when installed?

I had a set of heads that were machined and once assembled the valve stems were not all at the same height. That didn't seem correct so I didn't use them. But maybe yours are the same way and you may need adjustable or custom push rods to make up the difference.

Did you ever find what caused the engine to turn over and get stuck when you were manually turning it over? Maybe look into that also.

I'm sure there are other things to look at and I'm sure you will get some others to answer. I would not run the engine again until you go through it carefully and then run it only to see if what you did fixes it.
When I took the covers off to check them after the hand crank got stuck there was oil in there , both sides , the engine cranked freely ever since the time it got stuck , never sounded like that before except when I picked it up in January it had a pinging sound but I think I fixed that . Not rebuilt just all new gaskets and seals .
 

7DCUDA383A

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Drain oil and check! Here again eliminate any possibility of problems. Pull remove rockers check for bent shaft, push rods and keeping everything in order. Check and observe through push rod hole lifter condition. Use a rod or other to see if one is weak. The other would be pull the oil pan check rods and crank. A removal of the intake is what I would also do. Then PRIME the motor with the valve covers off to observe the flow if not even do it fist. That be the problem oil pump not picking up oil.


Where is it going?


By the way keep your posts on this thread. So were not looking elsewhere at past issues on this. Might help us help you diagnose the problem. I scroll back to review and sometimes it hits me or others. Thanks
All I did was replace the oil pan and pickup tube , ''402'' oil pan and pickup from 440source , then took the valve covers off to check the rockers then new gaskets , kind of bummed it sounds like this .
 

Xcudame

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Quick check, pull the breather cap off the driver's valve cover and see if those rocker arms you can see through the hole have oil on them. That will let you know at least if any oil is getting to the top. If rockers are dry, time to pull the valve covers and intake as Ronbo73 and Challenger RTA have suggested. Post some pictures of what you find. there should be wet oil in the heads, rocker arms and lifter valley.
 

Xcudame

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That amount of movement side to side is normal. I just checked the 413 my son and I built awhile back, and it has similar movement.
I'm guessing no oil is getting to the rocker arms or lifters (i.e. spun or mis-installed #4 camshaft bearing). 🙁 But it could be something else depending on your findings from above suggestions.
 

7DCUDA383A

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That amount of movement side to side is normal. I just checked the 413 my son and I built awhile back, and it has similar movement.
I'm guessing no oil is getting to the rocker arms or lifters (i.e. spun or mis-installed #4 camshaft bearing). 🙁 But it could be something else depending on your findings from above suggestions.
I'm an outside the engine mechanic not inside engine mechanic , do you know a good video or website that gives detailed information.
 

Xcudame

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The oil gallery diagram Challenger RTA posted above shows how the oil flows. Can you see any oil on the rockers when looking through the breather hole?
You bought this vehicle and it was kinda piece milled from a former owner, correct? That's why I'm guessing there's an issue with #4 camshaft bearing. With 70 psi oil pressure (a little high at idle -even at 2500 rpm), it seems like oil is not getting up to the rockers and pushrods.
 

7DCUDA383A

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Update , thanks to Xcudame (Randy) with guidance I figured it out why it ticked so loud , someone (me) left a bolt behind the dust cover plate , I have no idea how it got there but it's not there no more , thanks to everyone here , FEBO is very knowledgeable and helpful , here is a new video.
 
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