spark plugs - hard to find

[booyaballer]

Happy Holidays everyone!

I've checked previous posts about spark plugs and sounds like the Champion N9Y (part #300 according to champion website) may be the way to go. I've checked typical parts websites like pep boys, auto zone etc and nobody seems to carry that specific plug. most seem to have platinum versions which make it more confusing. I'm a bit OCD so I'm looking for the N9Y. some mentioned the Autolite "equivilant" but even that is confusing. Is there a specific place I can find these hard to find plugs?

any tips for getting to the back two plugs on the driver's side, i can already see its going to test me dealing with the header.

Also, my car is a 70 challenger with a six pack on a 360 crate engine. I don't mind the muscle car cologne too much but the fuel/exhaust smell seems excessive. Maybe i'm used to my modern car but i hope new plugs may help the issue. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[340challconvert]

booya
I just picked up a box set of 10 of Champion N9Y plugs with the original Chrysler part numbers. I have also been picking up original Champion N9Y plugs in pairs or separately (all on e-bay) So you can find them if you are patient. I paid an average of about $5.00 per plug.
Pic below. I have also posted a copy I have of modern replacement plugs for N9Y's:

• Champion N9Y replacement spark plugs
• AC Delco 41804
• AC Delco 42XLS
• Accel 0114
• Accel 0115
• Accel 115
• ASHUKI T25701
• Autolite 4263
• Autolite 63
• Autolite AR53
• Autolite XS63
• Beru 14-6D
• Beru 14-7DU
• Beru UXT2
• Beru UXT6
• Beru Z11
• Bosch +1
• Bosch 0241235755
• Bosch 0242235541
• Bosch 0242235663
• Bosch W6D
• Bosch W7DC
• Bosch WR7DC+
• Bosch WR7DP
• Brisk L15Y
• Brisk L15YC
• Champion N9YC
• Champion OE001
• Champion OE001T10
• Daihatsu 9004851005000
• Denso 3043
• Denso 5306
• Denso IW20
• Denso VW20
• Denso W20EP-U
• Denso W20EPU
• Denso W20TT
• Eyquem 0911007147
• Eyquem 750LS
• Fiat 46093110
• Honda 98079-56811
• Iskra FE65CP
• Magneti Marelli 062110410312
• Magneti Marelli CT6FM
• Magneti Marelli CW7LP
• Magneti Marelli F7LC
• Mitsubishi MS851023
• Motorcraft AG32
• NGK 5637
• NGK 7811
• NGK 91406
• NGK BP6ES
• NGK V-line-4
• NGK stk 7811
• Torch F6TC
• Toyota 90098-70033
• Unipart GSP151

 

[340challconvert]

Also, contigent on if your engine is performance modified; (headers, cam, etc) some people choose to go to a slightly higher heat range to prevent fouling.
As far as getting to the last two plugs on the driver's side; what prevents access? Headers, special brake master & booster?
Worst case scenario; I used to have a 440 6 pak where I had to remove the bolt to the motor mount and lift the engine slightly to get at plugs. Small block should be easier.
(And be glad you do not own a big block late 60's Mustang)

 

[moparleo]

New spark plugs will not fix a tuning problem. And why the N9Y. Is this a stock 1970 340 spec crate engine ? 10.5 CR was factory for 1970 340. Is it aftermarket or a Mopar Factory Crate engine ? Air/fuel and/or timing is your problem. Know somebody who does smog testing ? If so he can use his Smog test equipment to set your ratios.

 

[booyaballer]

thanks for the advice/suggestions. clearly i've neglected my car. still trying to figure out how to effectively tighten the last two plugs without braking more of them (1 so far).

 

[Dodgeboy]

Those plugs have either been in there for awhile or they are too cold of a plug. Personally #12 heat range works for me, the #9 is too cold and fouls up easy in my 383. Anyways, I have modified 2 wenchs to help me change my plugs, maybe this would work for you, I cut a slit in the box end grinded down the open end

 

[340challconvert]

Champion quick analysis

Know Your Engine - Read Your Spark Plugs.

 

[booyaballer]

thanks for the info. I modified a 13/16 socket and made it a stubby. size matters. I still don't have enough room to torque it to spec but it'll do. on to the next thing, which there is plenty of.

 

[moparleo]

Maybe its time to give your engine the gift of a new, better fitting set of headers as well as other maintenance items. Clean it up and fix all fluid leaks...

 

[booyaballer]

Yeah, its been sitting a while and it is neglected. I just completed my TKO install. i'll have to research which headers to get and put some elbow grease on the engine compartment.

 

[moparleo]

I have run TTI ceramic coated for over 15 years. No down side. Excellent fit, ground clearance, plug clearance, wire clearance, Lower under hood temp with the thermal barrier and low maintenance with the polished ceramic coating. Premium product, premium price.
My car is worth it to me...

 

[fasjac]

Leo is correct, I’ve run TTI’s for 15+ years. Couldn’t be happier with the fit, plug clearance etc. Save the coin or pay it. Good investment.

 

[fasjac]

thanks for the advice/suggestions. clearly i've neglected my car. still trying to figure out how to effectively tighten the last two plugs without braking more of them (1 so far).

View attachment 78221

View attachment 78222

Yea, that looks like a pain to get on.

 

[chargerdon]

yours looks the same as mine...Patriot long tube headers.... Yes, the last two plugs (#5 and #7) are a @#$%^^ to get out and replace. On mine, i first put the plugs i'm going to use into the #1 cylinder and tighten it down to about 25 ft-lbs to "precrush" the washer. Then i use the shortest plug wrench that i have, and am just able to wiggle a closed 3/4 inch wrench over the end of it, after putting a bar down into there to slightly pull the header pipe towards the fender. Then tighten it down with the wrench pointing towards the floor. Remember, you only need about 25-30 ft-lbs...that's fairly easy with a 12" wrench.