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Steering Shaft Moves In and Out

money pit

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On my 70 Barracuda with manual steering, I noticed if you pull up on the steering wheel, there is a 1/2 gap between the steering column and the crush can. I posted this problem before. Some people responded that the shaft may have collapsed, like it's supposed to. The other day I noticed that the top rubber seal on the steering coupler was bulging out when I pulled up on the steering wheel. It moves the same amount that the crush can does.. That led me to believe the steering column was still intact. Is there something in the steering coupler that prevents this movement? I know there is a small roll pin that supposed to prevent the shaft from completely coming out. I watched the rebuild videos done by Cuda Cody. I know there are some parts missing in the column (lock out plate, and snap rings) The plan is to convert to power steering. So If I have to cut the shaft, should I not worry about it? Thanks
 

Chryco Psycho

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There is a brg just under the turn signal switch that is retained by a snap ring above & below , this is held down by the retainer for the turn signal switch , one of the snap rings may not be in place, missing or broken
 

money pit

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There is a brg just under the turn signal switch that is retained by a snap ring above & below , this is held down by the retainer for the turn signal switch , one of the snap rings may not be in place, missing or broken
When I replace the upper snap ring, under the turn signal switch, I can't push the steering wheel back down. So, I have about a 1/2 inch gap between the crush can and the the steering column.
 

money pit

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There is a brg just under the turn signal switch that is retained by a snap ring above & below , this is held down by the retainer for the turn signal switch , one of the snap rings may not be in place, missing or broken
Here is a photo of the steering coupler, when I move the steering wheel up and down. There is about the same amount of movement at the coupler, about a 1/2 inch.

steering shaft.jpg


steering shaft 1.jpg
 

Challenger RTA

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As Chryco Psycho said: but the upper shaft should not be able to move vertically.

Rotational motion
This is the purpose of the the coupler.
The Mopar steering coupler serves as a critical component in the steering system, connecting the steering column to the steering box. It allows for the transfer of rotational motion from the steering wheel to the steering mechanism, enabling the driver to control the vehicle's direction. The coupler also helps to absorb vibrations and reduce wear on the steering components.

There are two main types of Mopar steering couplers: manual and power steering. The primary difference between them is the size of the splined hole. A manual steering coupler typically has a splined hole of approximately 0.700 inches in diameter, while a power steering coupler has a splined hole of about 0.600 inches in diameter. The length of the coupler does not determine whether it is for manual or power steering.

In addition to connecting the steering column to the steering box, the coupler also plays a role in maintaining proper alignment and ensuring smooth operation. Some couplers feature a split collar with a bolt or roll pin to connect to the splined shaft on the steering box. These couplers may require specific rebuild kits, which can vary depending on the model year and type of vehicle.

For vehicles with power steering, the coupler may also include a vibration reducer to minimize unwanted movement and improve handling. Some couplers are designed to be installed without modifying the steering column, making them a convenient option for upgrades or replacements.
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1749730907015.png
 
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Challenger RTA

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Sometimes a question has to be ask to get an answer to a question.

Here is a photo of the steering coupler, when I move the steering wheel up and down. There is about the same amount of movement at the coupler, about a 1/2 inch.
When the top shaft move does the bottom one move also?
 

money pit

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Sometimes a question has to be ask to get an answer to a question.


When the top shaft move does the bottom one move also?
Yes. if I pull up on the steering wheel, the shaft move up at the coupler, the same amount it moves at the crush can and steering column. I drew a mark on the shaft so you can see the amount it moves. This leads me to believe the shaft is moving as one piece. Am I wrong? I know there are some parts missing from the column (couple of snap rings and a plate that has notches). I plan on converting to power steering so I need to know if there is a problem with the shaft, or do I need to replace it. Thanks
 

rklein71

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E-bodies have a two-piece telescoping steering shaft. They can get crusty together and not telescope like they should.
 

Xcudame

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So you are able to install the snap ring? But with it in place, you have a gap between the "tomato can" and the turn signal "bell"? Some photos of that end of the steering column might help us spot the problem.
 

Challenger RTA

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So you are able to install the snap ring? But with it in place, you have a gap between the "tomato can" and the turn signal "bell"? Some photos of that end of the steering column might help us spot the problem.
I'm thinking the can is not clocked correctly. splines not lined up. But then he said the shaft moves too?
 

Xcudame

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I'm thinking splines too, but more photos would be helpful. "Tomato can" s are sometimes a pain to get lined up and installed.
 

money pit

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I'm thinking splines too, but more photos would be helpful. "Tomato can" s are sometimes a pain to get lined up and installed.
I'm 99.9% the splines are lined up correctly. I lined up the 2 flat splines. I hand tighten it and torqued it. If the splines were not lined up, this wouldn't affect the shaft moving in and out of the steering coupler. What photos would be helpful? The can and the column, the top snap ring or the steering coupler?
It just occur to me, if the lock out plate is missing, wouldn't this cause extra movement of the steering shaft? I'm missing this part and the lock out levers. I just saw the last post of all the parts on the table. Thanks
 
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Challenger RTA

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lock out plate is missing
I think you answered your problem. The lock plate is about 1/2" to 5/8" in thickness. You will have to make a spacer or bushing up. We all go with the assumption everything is there. I would say that is the problem. Take it a part and put a few washers in see it it fixes the problem. You have nothing to loose but a little time. Let us know.
 
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