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To save a T/A fender or not to

spoolinhard

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The pass fender on my T/A is very rusty. The bottom behind the wheel is rusted out, the headlight bucket I think is rusted out, and the fender is heavily pitted. (car sat in a long island boatyard by the ocean) I was able to save the drivers fender, but decided that I didnt want to go through the effort to save the pass. I have a rust free pass fender that is dammaged that would yield all the patches, but it would be ALOT of work.

I just learned that there is a difference, and T/A fenders actaully have the whole side bulged out over the tire in order to clear the bigger tires. It really cant be noticed unless you see them side by side with a regular chally fender. I ordered an AMD new pass fender about a month ago, they arent even completed yet, so i am supposed to get it in march. I dont know if I want it now!

Help me decide!!!!
 

varlo

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Not sure thats a tough descision. I know how tough metalwork can be sometimes but everywhere you look T/A stuff is getting more and more expensive. I would fix it just so i could say its a real t/a fender and not repop or anything. But nobody would be able to tell the difference either way.
 

sheetmetaldan

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I just read something yesterday about the differences in the fenders.I would think the R/T fenders with the bulge are not available aftermarket I could be wrong just don`t know.All depends what your plans are for the car if your intent is for an original type concours restoration I would try to save the fender.If your plans are for a nice clean driver to drive and enjoy a regular fender to me would be just fine.If it were my car I would want to have the same type fender for both sides of the car.I have seen a photo of the different fenders and comparing them side by side you can notice a difference.

edit.JPG
 
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rbbruno3

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For what its worth I bought new fenders for my 70 at the Chrysler dealer. Neither one fit that great and had a bunch of money getting them to fit real nice. Find a good body guy and fix the original, you'll know it will fit right.
 

spoolinhard

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I am "the good body guy" lol! I just checked and the drivers does not have the bulge. pass is a true t/a fender, but drivers was not. No use in saving the pass side. Dont get me wrong, Im not going to throw it away, but Im not going to use it either. I have an AMD fender coming. I would hope that it would fit better than a goodmark.
 

rbbruno3

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I would like to know how your fender fits when you get it. Here is a picture of how much mine were off (I bought 2) hoping to get a good one It did fit ok along the hood.RB
I am "the good body guy" lol! I just checked and the drivers does not have the bulge. pass is a true t/a fender, but drivers was not. No use in saving the pass side. Dont get me wrong, Im not going to throw it away, but Im not going to use it either. I have an AMD fender coming. I would hope that it would fit better than a goodmark.

002.jpg
 

spoolinhard

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I have heard about the goodmark "downhill" bodyline problem, for this reason I have stayed away from them. AMD seems to be much more concerned with fitment, so I am eagerly awaiting mine to see how it will fit. They are in production right now, so i will be one of the first to have one and post up.
 

spoolinhard

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OK, I decided to tell AMD to go stick it because they were giving me the runaround on my new fender. I have already started the metal work on the T/A fender, man is it alot of work. I have all the inner structure cut out of it so it is a bare skin right now. Metal work is about done. Don't know if I should have saved this one but it will be nice when Im done.
 

spoolinhard

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well its not finished, but pretty far along. This is before any metal work. I have yet to take pics of progress:

DSCN0315.jpg

DSCN0316.jpg

DSCN0317.jpg
 

ragtopdodge

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is your original have the center support brace removed? Lip rolled? Just mod a replacement fender like your original.
 

a68postcar

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that really is a bunch of work man.show us some progress pics as you go!!!!!!
 
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