Trunk Pan Replacement Help Needed

[1moretoy]

Yeah, my plan now is to cut it forward of the shock mounts to the seam. I didn't want to cut it too far back as I was told the pan is under the tail panel. All of that metal is in great condition so I don't want to mess with it.

I'm going to try an old socket. If not I'll get the one made for the job.

 

[ignition1]

Panel replacement is my favorite

Not a Challenger, but this is a 67 camaro converted to 69 Camaro I completed last year, only thing on the back half that was saved were the frame rails.

Installed a full trunk pan w/ trunk drop offs, Detroit Speed Mini-Tub Kit, outer wheelhouses, full quarters, tail panel, package tray & filler panel, trunk lid, roof skin.

SO satisfying when you get rid of all the rust!! Keep up the progress, love the photos you post

 

[cuda joe]

I agree with ignition 1 going to the factory seams is easier in the long run and alot cleaner job when done . also i would weld the holes up in the rails and grind them nice before putting in the trunk pan in because plug welding from underneath is no fun if you are going to plug weld go from the top

 

[chally71e]

FYI you can get the trunk pan out the back with quarters and trunk panel on if you remove the lower rear crossmember at the back.

 

[larry4406]

FYI you can get the trunk pan out the back with quarters and trunk panel on if you remove the lower rear crossmember at the back.

Yes Post 4 has pictures showing that.

 

[1moretoy]

I was able to work on the car after work today and got the rest of the fron panel out. For those that have mini tubbed by simply moving the wheel tub to the frame. Do I just cut the flange off of the frame and grind flush then weld the tub to the frame?

 

[Adam]

Why not cut the pan forward of the shock mounts where the factory spot welds are to avoid butt welding on the forward seam?

Along the rear seam same deal, cut the trunk pan back to tail panel where factory spot welds are to avoid butt welding at the rear area?

Wheel locks, could a 12pt socket be hammered on to the wheel lock to remove them without a special socket?

I think this is the way to go, so much of the original pan is gone. There are probably only 15-20 spot welds holding the remainder of the pan/shock tower area. Easy enough to drill those out and remove the whole piece.

 

[cuda joe]

looking good so far the auto paint store sells weld through primer. coat the bare metal before installing pan ,if plug welding from the top the easiest way position pan then from underneath scribe the frame flanges and then drill holes on the inside of the scribes

 

[1moretoy]

looking good so far the auto paint store sells weld through primer. coat the bare metal before installing pan ,if plug welding from the top the easiest way position pan then from underneath scribe the frame flanges and then drill holes on the inside of the scribes

I picked up some weld through primer. I will prime before I install. I was thinking about using por 15 as well.