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what to do with my 440

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Hey guys, looking for a opinion .. I have a 74 cuda with a 440 and noticed that I had a lot of blow by out of my valve cover breathers ...so I took a compression test to find out #5 had only 90 psi compared to 155 on all other cylinders ..(rings I'd say ) now I have milled 906 heads (.035 )with larger valves , m1 intake ,mp 296 solid cam ,flat tops .080 in the hole with steel shim head gasket ...now what I need an opinion on is what cam to run ...I think my cam is also wipe a few lobes and the fuel pump lobes were gone since I owned motor .I have only took motor down to short block so I havnt measure the lobes .motor was dynoed at 450 hp at 5300 rpm and 500ftlb at 4200 ..stall was built custom to match drive train ..should I go back with that cam or use a more modern grind , love the power but would like more ...we all would eh ! Also do I need to change all rings and does the cylinder need to be honed .looked fine but don't know what to look for ..I just finished the car and have less then 100 km on the motor ..I did not build the motor it was in a drag truck for a season before I bought it ..bearings seemed to be fine also but was built loose ..20 psi at idle but jump up and hold 65 psi within 2500 rpm ..basically do I need a total engine rebuild and if so what cam should I use ..I got $30 000 into this thing and just don't see an end to this money pit .maybe even get to drive it ..thanks for any replies guys ....this site is awesome !
 

moparleo

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Take it to a reputable machine shop that does engine builds. You can ruin a lot of parts in a short amount of time. You need to have the engine disassembled and have everything checked along the way. A good machine shop can tell you what is still good and what is junk. Always a bad idea to buy something that someone else had built as you really don't know all of the facts, just what you are told. Cheaper and better to start fresh than to keep throwing money at it.
 

74 challenger

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Back in the day you could trust what people tell you when you bought something. Now a days Leo is right ,its better to build your own. Take it to a shop and go from there.Good luck
 
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I am lucky enough to have a great place not far from hear that build some of the best motors around ..(allen armstrongs) I guess I was looking for a cheep way out ..looks like I am out three more grand !
 

RUNCHARGER

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You could only have a bent valve. Why do you think the cam is shot?
I would flip the heads over and fill the chambers with gasoline or some other fairly thin liquid and see if it leaks by the valves after sitting awhile. Check all the cam lobes while still in the engine. just look for mushroomed lifters or obviously damaged lobes. Don't shotgun a bunch of high dollar parts at it when it may not need much.
If you do have broken rings in one cylinder it should have some scratches on the cylinder wall.

Sheldon
 

moparleo

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The point of having it professional inspected is so that you will really know what can and cannot be re-used. They have the proper tools and knowledge for doing this type of work.
 

Chryco Psycho

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I would do a wet compression test FIRST , if the compression rises significantly with a small amount of oil squirted into the cylinder then it is rings , if not then it is a head problem , you might have a minor issue with the heads .
Cams are a big choice , there are better cams available now but more power can be difficult to find than just a cam swap . 4 types of cams area available , hyd or solid & flat tappet or roller , none are perfect , all oils off the shelf have inadequate Zddp additives unless they are rated SJ - SL solid rollers can starve for oil on the street & hyd rollers have limited ramp speed as the lifter can collapse under the spring loads
 
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Well it turned out to be the piston ..broke the side out of it and the rings were keeping it in place ...cylinder bore wasn't touched ...cross hatch still there and no scoring to be seen ..I was shocked to see cast pistons in this motor, its a wonder it lasted as long as it did ,,i like to use my toys ..lol ...maybe a 500 stroker is in the making this spring !!!
 

Chryco Psycho

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Ouch , what type of pisons were used?
Glad you found it before it did more damage !!
 
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They were just cast speed pro pistons ..no valve reliefs .089 in the hole ..motor made decent power at 450hp @5300 rpm and 500 ft lbs @ 4200 rpm...906 heads were milled 035 and steel head gasket ..has anyone tried a 440 source stroker kit ?..thinking about goin to the 500 or 512 ci kit with the -27 dished pistons and my heads ...looking to touch 600lbs of torque !
 

Chryco Psycho

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I have built at least a dozen 512 strokers with 440 source kits , with one we hit a gross # of 630 hp & 720 Ft Lbs at under 6000 rpm using ported iron heads !!
All worked out very well crank drops in without trimming counter weights etc
 
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I was more worried about quality control ..I have built several motors myself and am confident I could build a stroker as long as the parts being used are up to snuff... Machining is where it becomes out of my hands ...and don't want to re-grind cranks and linebore rod ends to make it all work ..I want to thank you for the responses as well ..nice to bounce ideas of people that really know their mopars!
 
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chryco ,love to hear the details of that build ..thinking hard about a stroker ..I'd like to build a killer torque motor but use as much of what I have allready ..I need pistons and bearings so this is my chance to go with a stroker kit . My car has 323 gears with 8.75 rear ,3200 billet stall converter. schumacher try y headers full 2.5 exhaust with x pipe, 825 mighty demon carb, m1 intake ..now what cam should I use.. Currently have mp 557 and it needs more gear ..heads are 906 pocket ported with dual springs (set up for cam )and crane adj rockers.. Would this combo work with a .30 over block using the 512 stroker kit (505ci ).Car has power breaks and didn't mind this cam on the street ..roller cams are too steep for me at the moment so a good solid is what I am looking for ..just don't know if its a mis-matched combo ..I feel what I had was ..This is a pure street car ..and liked the 323's..tire height is 26.5 inches on 18 inch rims...would like some direction on this build ! Thanks from Nova Scotia , Canada
 

Chryco Psycho

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Most of the general specs are here http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=54640.0
I can help you sort out cam choice , I use Lunati solids using the .904 profiles , fast ramp cam with minimal duration allowing decent idle & vacuum with high lift & good drivability.
All of the parts can be used but the 906 often cause detonation with open chambers , I would have to do some math & figure out the rpm you are turning at highway speeds , the gear shouldbe workable but the converter may be unlocked generating extra heat , , the carb is really too small for the 512" engine , I would use a 950 minimum & Proform seem to have the best bang for the $$, Cam choice will be critical to make everything work as a pkg
 
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Would be very thankful for any help on cam selection .also my converter was built on the tight side and was a custom built piece to my drive train set up . Converter worked like stock but would flash to about 29 to 3000 before breaking tires loose. Also have large tranny cooler.
 

Chryco Psycho

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I used the TF60 / TF 57 lunati grind a lot , you can play with the CL a little 112* lowers the powerband a little , 108* is more for higher RPM , I can also look up slightly smaller lobes in the .904 profiles
 
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that cam would be the 43799 lunati cam ? Its my understanding that is a custom grind ..Do I need to contact lunati to buy this cam..or is it off the shelf type deal ..hard time finding it on luniti site or even summit /jegs ..every time I search it I end up on some form where someone is thanking you for reccomending it ..looks like its a great cam ..I think i"ll take your sound advice and go with that cam with 110 *..just need to find it now ! ..Thanks again
 

Chryco Psycho

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I order from Lunati Talk to Jeff or Steve , you can back off the lobe size a little to lower the powerband , there are a whole series of TF series lobes specifically for Mopars , you may be able to get it delivered through Jegs or Summit etc or just buy direct .
 
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