Why does my engine only start after I release the key??

[transam]

I have been having issues with my motor actually only starting when I release the key?? Car ran fine for many years, As a precaution I installed a new ballast resistor, a new coil, and a new orange box. I did replace the ignition key several months ago and it was starting fine after replacing it, so this seems to be something new?? I have not done anything with the starter relay?? I am running out of things to check. I did check the connections at th bulkhead connector and also at the ignition switch harness under the steering column. They appeared to be fine. Any ideas. The car turns over fine but will not fire until I release the key??

 

[Challenger RTA]

Sounds like the run and start wires are switch somewhere. Check the steering column plug and the bulkhead connector. Make sure there in the right location.

22 Brown 23 Blue Remove connector under hood. Connect test light and check if it's working correct. You should only have power to the brown when in the key is in the start position.

 

[tonysrt]

Could be new ignition switch has failed in the start position with voltage not going to the coil and bypassing the ballast resistor. You may need 2 people to check this out. 1 turning the key to the start position and you checking voltage at coil.

 

[Katfish]

Agreed, that's where I'd start.
Measure voltage to coil/ballast resistor while trying the key.
Disconnect connector on column and you can do it yourself.
Ignore stuff at bottom, that's for a 3G swap.

 

[toolmanmike]

I have been having issues with my motor actually only starting when I release the key?? Car ran fine for many years, As a precaution I installed a new ballast resistor, a new coil, and a new orange box. I did replace the ignition key several months ago and it was starting fine after replacing it, so this seems to be something new?? I have not done anything with the starter relay?? I am running out of things to check. I did check the connections at th bulkhead connector and also at the ignition switch harness under the steering column. They appeared to be fine. Any ideas. The car turns over fine but will not fire until I release the key??

Dual ballast resistor? That's usually the issue.

 

[Cuda Hunter]

Dual ballast resistor? That's usually the issue.

Are you saying you have seen this issue specifically caused by a failed "dual" ballast? But not a single ballast.

 

[toolmanmike]

Are you saying you have seen this issue specifically caused by a failed "dual" ballast? But not a single ballast.

Yes, the dual ballast resistors have a start and run side. The run side goes out and the only way to keep the engine lit is with the key in the start position.

 

[transam]

I have been having issues with my motor actually only starting when I release the key?? Car ran fine for many years, As a precaution I installed a new ballast resistor, a new coil, and a new orange box. I did replace the ignition key several months ago and it was starting fine after replacing it, so this seems to be something new?? I have not done anything with the starter relay?? I am running out of things to check. I did check the connections at th bulkhead connector and also at the ignition switch harness under the steering column. They appeared to be fine. Any ideas. The car turns over fine but will not fire until I release the key??

I woke up today and it was a new day. After a lot of thinking I decided to look at my ECU orange box again. The system was purchased 15 years ago as a Mopar electronic ignition conversion. It came with a new Mopar distributor, orange box and the wiring harness. It has ran or many years nwith no problem just and just taken to shows in the summer 4 months. I changed the ignition lock because I missplaced the key and it appeared to be my only option. So I figured what the hell, just install a new ignition key switch. At any rate A also replaced the original orange box with a new one I got from Mancini Racing. So, I thought just for kicks and giggles I would remove that new one and replace it with the old one I had removed as I was thinking there was not really anything wrong with it. Before I installed the old one, It appeared to still have orange paint around the two hole where the screws mount it to the offset cooling bracket that I also put on the car years ago. So I sanded those two area clean, installed the old orange box. Went in and turned the key and the car fired on the first turn of the engine. I can't believe it was just that connection and now I think I understand that the newer 4 prong box and harness uses the box housing and screws to make a ground rather than that 5th plug. So, Check those graounds folks. Easy to overlook.

 

[tonysrt]

Glad it was an easy fix. Tracking down wiring problems can be a major nightmare.