sir_veza
Well-Known Member
Last Thursday or Friday somebody told me it was because I'm using a stock ignition coil resistor with an MSD Blaster coil???
Any Suggestions or Ideas?
- Thread starter sir_veza
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Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
That could be correct. The correct coil has to used with MSD system and vise a versa. I have a MSD coil on mine that is stock electronic ignition. I'll have to find the part number. But that's not a mechanical issue. I would still prime the motor to see the oil flow. It might been seen through the valve cover cap.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=8203+MSD+Ignition+Coil+-+Blaster+2+Series+-+Ballast+Resistor+-+Red&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2510209.m570.l1313
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sir_veza
Well-Known Member
Thanks. It's a new motor with no oil leaks or any other fluid leaks I didn't want to start taking off the pan etc unless I'm certain and it's necessary. I'm not the world's best or luckiest mechanic! Only drive the car 2200 miles a year if that. Just realized I may not even drive another two hours plus run again this year.
chargerdon
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i Have a 408 also. Since it was built i have had the identical issues. Im running 20w50 oil and it has a stock oil pump. If I had to do over again i would have put in a High Volume oil pump. The situation is that as the car is driven a long distance the2000 oil temp goes up and thins out. My oil pressure when cold goes up 2000-70 and then down to 25 at 850 idle. But after long drive the pressure drops to about 12 at idle and 30-40 at 2000 rpm. I have a A518 overdrive tranny so cruising at 45 im only running 1400 rpm and at 70 2,000. So the oil pressure runs around 30-40 most of the time.
Other than the lumpy idle i dont see an issue!!!!! U didnt state whether your oil pump is stock or high pressure or high volume. I have read in many places that an engine only needs about 10 PSI per thousand RPM and even when hot you are that or above.
U have 3 choices in my opinion...
1) ignore it...hell if u only had the oil idiot light u would never know u even have any issue.
2) Replace the oil pump with a HIGH Volume pump...that will raise the PSI another 10 psi at idle...
3) Install an oil cooler... in the long run this is the best option and will solve your problem for hot idle as well.
PS on my 360/408 stroker i talked with the builder and he confirmed that he used high performance connecting rod bearings and that they have a slightly higher tolerance. He should have told me to use a high volume pump. He also said.. 10-15 PSI at idle is fine. quit worrying.
Other than the lumpy idle i dont see an issue!!!!! U didnt state whether your oil pump is stock or high pressure or high volume. I have read in many places that an engine only needs about 10 PSI per thousand RPM and even when hot you are that or above.
U have 3 choices in my opinion...
1) ignore it...hell if u only had the oil idiot light u would never know u even have any issue.
2) Replace the oil pump with a HIGH Volume pump...that will raise the PSI another 10 psi at idle...
3) Install an oil cooler... in the long run this is the best option and will solve your problem for hot idle as well.
PS on my 360/408 stroker i talked with the builder and he confirmed that he used high performance connecting rod bearings and that they have a slightly higher tolerance. He should have told me to use a high volume pump. He also said.. 10-15 PSI at idle is fine. quit worrying.
Challenger RTA
Well-Known Member
The video above of the oil primming the motor has a high volume pump.
I had a nightmare that I didn't install the plug. Woke up at 3am. This was after the motor was installed! I looked through pictures that I took and it was installed. Got a lucky picture shot of it, I could see it.
It was all Dallas Dream.
The oil return hole were in enlarged and inside of block ground smooth. Mostly for a quicker return of oil to the pan. This should be done with a high volume pump. I think depends on how it will be driven. I did mine just incase!
I had a nightmare that I didn't install the plug. Woke up at 3am. This was after the motor was installed! I looked through pictures that I took and it was installed. Got a lucky picture shot of it, I could see it.
It was all Dallas Dream.
The oil return hole were in enlarged and inside of block ground smooth. Mostly for a quicker return of oil to the pan. This should be done with a high volume pump. I think depends on how it will be driven. I did mine just incase!
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mrmopar340
Well-Known Member
High volume oil pump and 50W oil is what I run in my 416. Don't use a Fram filter. Get a quality one built for higher pressures like a Moroso. My pump sucked my Fram filter inside itself. Won't use another one.
sir_veza
Well-Known Member
The oil pump in mine is a stock pump. I'm not as experienced or knowledgeable as most of you folks. Thus probably not going to be doing any surgery anytime soon...
WFHDANB426
Active Member
MoparFest is a few hours from me but I didn't go this year. I'm near Windsor Ontario.
WFHDANB426
Active Member
Back in the day we ran the Fram HP1 Racing filters on my Chrysler Kit Car but now I've heard that WIX is suppose to make really good filters.
sir_veza
Well-Known Member
I use the Wix 51068 oil filter. Apparently Fram filters are no good these days I've been told.
WFHDANB426
Active Member
I've heard that too about the Fram filters.
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
Yes, the plug diverts the oil to the filter. Without the plug, the engine still gets oil, but the pressure dynamics change with the filter bypassed.
Also, agree it could be high tolerances between the crankshaft mains and rods. High volume pump might just solve the problem if the plug is indeed in there. When changing the pump, it's just two more bolts to remove the rear main and check if the plug is there or not. My issue with high volume pumps is pumping the pan dry. Not a big issue on big blocks because we can run a 6 quart pan instead of the more common 4 quart. Stock small block oil pans all have the same capacity be they 360 or 273/318/340. An oil accumulator would definitely be a good idea!
sir_veza
Well-Known Member
This is a new 408 stroker motor, (not a rebuilt) with just over 2000 miles. Unfortunately I don't have a hoist readily available at my disposal. Also I'm a novice at best. Is there any methodology to determine the issue without removing the pan? When the engine starts from cold it runs at 55 psi @ 1200 rpm. It runs fine around town and stays around 25 - 30 psi at warm idle. I've been told that 10 psi per 1000 rpm is acceptable. Sometimes there is some vibration that can be felt thru the pistol grip.
sir_veza
Well-Known Member
Just read your message and I'm relieved to learn you had a similar issue that is somewhat normal. Thanks!
Chryco also suggested an oil cooler. The motor has a stock oil pump. The car does have an oil light that does work but didn't come on. The builder came well recommended and used good quality parts plus has many, many years under his belt.
Cratos
Well-Known Member
might what a bigger oil pan too.
WFHDANB426
Active Member
I totally agree about using an oil accumulator, especially if it can be plumbed in on the back of the block on the drivers side so the engine would oil more evenly like a city water system that feeds water from two different directions and equalizes the pressure throughout the system. A&W had an oil crossover tube in an engine building manual that piped oil from the pass side oil gallery to the drivers side through tubing and holes that were drilled into the oil galleries to even out the flow to both sides. Number 4 main and number 7 rod always seem to starve first as the oil don't feed 4 main until the pressure builds up at the front of the block first.
WFHDANB426
Active Member
If I remember right the hole that the oil sending unit lives in is a the top of that rear oil gallery and if you put a clean rod in there to see how far down it goes it would tell you if the plug is in or not?
sir_veza
Well-Known Member
Thanks
WFHDANB426
Active Member
No problem. One time I had a vehicle that used a sending unit for an electric factory oil pressure light and I used teflon tape on the threads and it didn't let the sending unit ground on the block and the light didn't work properly.
Xcudame
Well-Known Member
OK, I went out to the barn and drug out a bare 340 block. Please ignore the cat hair on everything! It's much better that mice and rat crap! Assuming you can remove the oil pressure sending unit next to the distributor, you can take a piece of wire and run down the hole. It should hit the plug at ~7 1/2" from the block top surface. If it goes in 8" or more, odds are the plug is missing. See photos below. First photo is were to insert the wire. Second photo: I put a read circle with the wire at where the plug is located and in the last photo I circled the hole below the rear main cap where the plug is installed.
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