Rebuild kits for Brake Master Cylinder

[michigan2023]

Does anyone know of a source for rebuild brake master cylinder kits. I have a 72 dodge challenger with 340 4-speed that has manual front disc brakes. The Master cylinder is in good shape but the seals are in need of an upgrade.
Thanks in advance.
Steve W
SW Michigan

 

[michigan2023]

This has 1-1/32" bore

 

[MOPARMITCH]

There are a lot of sources. Check your local Auto Parts Stores. Especially the small independents if there are any in your area. Napa is a good choice. I bought the one I got online for my 70 Cuda. Check Rock Auto, Amazon, etc. You should be able to find one. The bore of yours looks a little rough from the pic. You will need to hone that out to correct that issue. I sent mine out and had it stainless steel sleeved...Then rebuilt it at home in my Shop.

 

[michigan2023]

There are a lot of sources. Check your local Auto Parts Stores. Especially the small independents if there are any in your area. Napa is a good choice. I bought the one I got online for my 70 Cuda. Check Rock Auto, Amazon, etc. You should be able to find one. The bore of yours looks a little rough from the pic. You will need to hone that out to correct that issue. I sent mine out and had it stainless steel sleeved...Then rebuilt it at home in my Shop.

Yes…checked all the options you mentioned however I could only find complete assemblies…I ordered one from Rock Auto…haven’t received it yet. Even those you don’t get the dust boot or rubber ring for the push rod. Thanks for the suggestions

 

[michigan2023]

Yes…checked all the options you mentioned however I could only find complete assemblies…I ordered one from Rock Auto…haven’t received it yet. Even those you don’t get the dust boot or rubber ring for the push rod. Thanks for the reply

 

[MOPARMITCH]

Yes…checked all the options you mentioned however I could only find complete assemblies…I ordered one from Rock Auto…haven’t received it yet. Even those you don’t get the dust boot or rubber ring for the push rod. Thanks for the suggestions

I sent mine to be stainless sleeved at a place in Minneapolis. ... Brake Equipment and Warehouse. Phone 612-378-3141. They also sell kits. They did a very nice job on mine...

 

[michigan2023]

I sent mine to be stainless sleeved at a place in Minneapolis. ... Brake Equipment and Warehouse. Phone 612-378-3141. They also sell kits. They did a very nice job on mine...

Thank you…appreciate the advice

 

[michigan2023]

Didn’t expect the new one to be all aluminum…it weighs about 1/2 of original cast iron…not many choices left to pick from for a 54 year old car.

 

[Katfish]

You bolting that on?
Or was the plan to use the parts to rebuild your original?

 

[michigan2023]

You bolting that on?
Or was the plan to use the parts to rebuild your original?

I was going to disassemble it tomorrow to see if the internals are the same…if so I was going to use that to rebuild the original? Not sure the new aluminum one would hold up? It’s advertised as 12months or 12k miles.
I’ll reach out to that company in MN MoparMitch suggested next week.

 

[michigan2023]

After inspection the FVP has the same internal components as the original. All items spec out dimensionally.
The only concern I have is on the original there was a backflow preventer on the Rear line set behind the brass seat… the aftermarket does not have one.
Does anyone see an issues with not having this item? My origin still seems to work after cleaning.
Seems odd the aftermarket would not have this provision
Sw

 

[michigan2023]

in addition to the suggestion from MoparMitch I did find a company in Tx that rebuilds this and several other items. Link below for reference
Sw
Brake Component Rebuilds – therammanINC

 

[pschlosser]

After inspection the FVP has the same internal components as the original. All items spec out dimensionally.
The only concern I have is on the original there was a backflow preventer on the Rear line set behind the brass seat… the aftermarket does not have one.
Does anyone see an issues with not having this item? My origin still seems to work after cleaning.
Seems odd the aftermarket would not have this provision
Sw

Reagrding the residual pressure valve you have marked in red as REAR in your 5th image:

In the past, MC rebuild kits contain two of those, one for the front and rear. Is it optional? I haven't a clue. If you want them, reuse the old ones in your rebuild.

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

The residual valve is only needed for the rear drum brakes. It simply keeps a little pressure on the rear wheel cylinders to prevent them from fully retracting after braking. This improves the pedal feel, but many have removed the valve without problems. Just ensure the rear brake shoes are adjusted properly to remove excess clearance to the drum.

 

[michigan2023]

The residual valve is only needed for the rear drum brakes. It simply keeps a little pressure on the rear wheel cylinders to prevent them from fully retracting after braking. This improves the pedal feel, but many have removed the valve without problems. Just ensure the rear brake shoes are adjusted properly to remove excess clearance to the drum.

 

[michigan2023]

Thank you…appreciate the help

 

[bc3j]

I believe Chrysler eliminated the residual pressure valves from the master cylinders in the mid 70s. There are expanders in the rear wheel cylinders now. I have an aluminum 1 1/32” MC from Dr Diff with front disc/rear drums and it works fine without the residual pressure valve. The Disc-O-Tech article mentions residual pressure valve elimination.

“In the mid-1970s, Chrysler eliminated the rear brake residual pressure valve from the master cylinder. Its function was to prevent any air from sneaking into the system via the rear wheel cylinder cups. In its place, Chrysler substituted "expanders" in the rear wheel cylinders. (Expanders are dish-shaped steel inserts that exert outward pressure on the cups.) If you should decide to use a master cylinder from a 1975-up car, be sure you have the expanders in your rear wheel cylinders. For at least 20 years they have been universal in all replacement wheel cylinders and rebuild kits.” From the Ehrenberg article.

 

[michigan2023]

I believe Chrysler eliminated the residual pressure valves from the master cylinders in the mid 70s. There are expanders in the rear wheel cylinders now. I have an aluminum 1 1/32” MC from Dr Diff with front disc/rear drums and it works fine without the residual pressure valve. The Disc-O-Tech article mentions residual pressure valve elimination.

“In the mid-1970s, Chrysler eliminated the rear brake residual pressure valve from the master cylinder. Its function was to prevent any air from sneaking into the system via the rear wheel cylinder cups. In its place, Chrysler substituted "expanders" in the rear wheel cylinders. (Expanders are dish-shaped steel inserts that exert outward pressure on the cups.) If you should decide to use a master cylinder from a 1975-up car, be sure you have the expanders in your rear wheel cylinders. For at least 20 years they have been universal in all replacement wheel cylinders and rebuild kits.” From the Ehrenberg article.

Thank you