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76 440 cranks but wont start.

bullet18

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So we've fixed the electrical issues as far as i can tell and the engine still wont start. Cylinders will fire off intermittently but we cant get it to keep going without the starter. Occasionally itll backfire out of the exhaust really loudly as well. Does anyone know what this could be? I cant seem to get the distributor dialed in on initial advance so its at about 12 degrees when its cranking with the vacuum port plugged, could that keep it from running? I tried turning it around 180 and it just shot fire out of the intake so i think its in the right way. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
 

Mopars & Missiles

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Well, once again no information on what year, model, engine size to go on. But since most all mopars had a ballast resistor in the ignition system, I would say check and verify that the ballast resistor is good.

While cranking, the ballast is bypassed out of circuit. The instant you release the key the ballast is once again part of the ignition current path.

Also, big block distributor rotation is CCW.
Small block distributor rotation is CW.

Recheck the wiring/firing order of the cylinders. Driver's side, 1, 3, 5, 7, frt to rear.
Passenger side, 2, 4, 6, 8, frt to rear.
 

bullet18

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Well, once again no information on what year, model, engine size to go on. But since most all mopars had a ballast resistor in the ignition system, I would say check and verify that the ballast resistor is good.

While cranking, the ballast is bypassed out of circuit. The instant you release the key the ballast is once again part of the ignition current path.

Also, big block distributor rotation is CCW.
Small block distributor rotation is CW.

Recheck the wiring/firing order of the cylinders. Driver's side, 1, 3, 5, 7, frt to rear.
Passenger side, 2, 4, 6, 8, frt to rear.
Ok, sorry i forgot to put that info. Its a 76 440 in a 70 challenger. Its got an hei distributor so there's no ballast resistor. Its currently hooked up to a remote starter as well.
 

Mopars & Missiles

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OK, once you get away from a factory ignition system you're going to be more on your own since there are way more variables involved and differences in systems. Good luck with it!
 

bullet18

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OK, once you get away from a factory ignition system you're going to be more on your own since there are way more variables involved and differences in systems. Good luck with it!
As far as i can tell we have spark so the ignition system isnt the issue.
 

rbbruno3

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What are you using for fuel supply old gas tank gas can electric fuel pump.....
 

rbbruno3

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Make sure your on compression stroke TDC both valves closed. Rotor should be pointed at wire from cylinder #1. Double check your wires for firing order as stated in above post. Hook remote stater to selinoid wire from battery other to S terminal on selinoid key on , “should run” if not you have some other wiring issue or faulty parts
 

bullet18

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Before i take the header and intake off to check valve positions, could it be the carb? I got it for $20 at the swap meet at the Packard proving grounds so i wouldn't be suprised if it had issues. The squirters work but i dont know if its drawing fuel out of the carb because i dont want to stick my face over the carb incase it backfires. I guess ill use my phone to record it tommorow and see whats going on.
 

Adam

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Just take out the #1 spark plug and bump it over (with your thumb over the hole) until you feel the compression. Then turn the engine over with a socket on the balancer nut until you are at 10 btdc. Verify your plug wires are in the correct order (18436572) counter clockwise on the dist cap. Use the timing light to static time the engine, as I previously described.

I don’t think it’s the carb.
 

bullet18

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Just take out the #1 spark plug and bump it over (with your thumb over the hole) until you feel the compression. Then turn the engine over with a socket on the balancer nut until you are at 10 btdc. Verify your plug wires are in the correct order (18436572) counter clockwise on the dist cap. Use the timing light to static time the engine, as I previously described.

I don’t think it’s the carb.
I will do that, thanks.
 

bullet18

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Any luck yet
Sorry for the lack of updates, my friend and i drove to nebraska to get his dream car. The starter melted while i was checking compression. Cylinder one seems to have no compression but it could possibly (probably not) be the compression tester leaking. I got compression on cylinder 8 so the cam isnt out of phase. I was checking 7 when it melted so ill have to check again to see if its the whole head or just 1.
 
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