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1970 A-66 Challenger Convertible

340challconvert

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Next and hopefully last sheet metal project
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340challconvert

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Picked up an AMD front driver's side panel
Glad I bought the sheet metal several years back; with the parts difficult to find today!

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340challconvert

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Plan is to cut the new panel to the center of the torsion bar support and short to the trans hump. This way the welding will be hidden inside the tb support. Plug weld the floor to the sill and fire wall. With this plan, the only weld that should show will be against the trans hump.
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Oystercopy

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Great job! Glad you had the energy and know-how to get this done!

Best of luck going forward!
 

budascuda

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Will you do the engine yourself 340? I am very interested in the combination of the performance parts that you will be using in your build, I think your plan is close to mine, good performance but close to OEM.
Thanks
 

Brcuda7t1

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Wow that is awesome, looks fantastic :)

I hope mine turns out as nice as yours looks.

Mine is going to body/paint in Jan then all new interior/top

I picked my convertible up in 1983 but in California.
 

340challconvert

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Would like to see some pics of your vert!
The body on my A66 is decent, needed the quarter panel patches, one trunk extension on the passenger side, and the front driver's side floor from the firewall, only up to the torsion bar brace. I have two NOS fenders I bought back in 1980; both original fenders needed the lower dog leg patch so common on these cars,
Luckily, the frame rails were in excellent condition.
Thanks for the comments!
Wow that is awesome, looks fantastic :)

I hope mine turns out as nice as yours looks.

Mine is going to body/paint in Jan then all new interior/top

I picked my convertible up in 1983 but in California.
 

340challconvert

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Hey Buda, happy holidays.
Always appreciate your comments. :thumbsup:
I originally purchased the edelbrock aluminum heads made for the high compression 340 this year in May. I wait and they finally tell me they can not deliver the heads in October and they cancel the order. Minimal ridge on top of the cylinder bores; so for now, I wanted a fresh set of heads, a cam/lifter change along with a new timing chain and sprockets just to see the car running again.
It has been a long time since I rebuilt an engine. Will eventually tear it down and look at a very moderate overbore (20 over?) At this stage I would probably have new pistons fitted and the drive train balanced professionally, then assemble the engine myself.
Will you do the engine yourself 340? I am very interested in the combination of the performance parts that you will be using in your build, I think your plan is close to mine, good performance but close to OEM.
Thanks
 

budascuda

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Hey 340, thanks very much and all the very best to you and yours, my friend.


God bless us, every one!
 

340challconvert

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Been awhile; busy with Grandpa duties.

Removed the front end of the 340 engine and camshaft. I was going to install a new cam, chain and sprockets. Upon examination, I did not like the condition of the cam bearings. Additionally, I got a price on rebuilding the original 340 heads (2 GRAND) and I had the new springs, seals, and stainless valves! Crazy prices.
I also did not like the look of the cam bearings, prior to thinking about just adding a new cam and front engine parts.

I have had in storage for a few years, two rebuilt 360 engines. One is a 360 1979 block that was rebuilt with hi-compression pistons and some HD parts. The other is a stroked 360 stroked to 408 from ATK.
I am looking to pull the 340 for a rebuild and install the hi compression 360 for now to make the car mobile (Have the requisite 360 parts including the external balanced harmonic balancer and rear flex plate.) so I can keep the original HD torqueflite and converter.

I also had a new set of edelbrock, open chamber heads designed for the hi compression 340 (60179) Not sure how these would work on the hi compression 360 with flat topped pistons. (.030 over)

Have to configure how I will put this package together!

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Moparply

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I would not replace/cut out that drivers floor pan. I would try to find someone that could repair it.
 

340challconvert

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I would not replace/cut out that drivers floor pan. I would try to find someone that could repair it.
I struggled with this decision. The pan's damage is more extensive at the top (under the pedals) some random holes and badly pitted with some other small holes to the left front My thought was that by the time I did all this patching, it would look like a quilt underneath.

I picked up an AMD front left pan and cut it short; the plan to seam it up front as normal with spot welds, and cut it so that that back of the pan seam would be hidden inside the torsion bar support. This way the only visible weld seams underneath would be at the console side.
Would love to be able to just patch weld this part of the floor, the sheet metal is very thin and I would expect a lot of blow through.
Moparply, Thanks for your thoughts
 
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