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Challenger 383 or 360

reefkeeper

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I have a 72 Challenger (original 318 A/C car) that I am working on. It has a 360 in it with a 904.

I also have a 383 that I pulled from a 69 Charger (sold the car w/727...:( so don't ask) a few years back and the 383 I pulled has been completly overhauled... the 383 has been bored .30, comp cam, heads have been mag'd new valves, springs, hardened seats, pistons, rods, Eld. 650, Eld. mid-rise, painted... new everything. Sitting on a stand.... waiting

Here is my dilema. I am debating over two options
Option 1: The 383 will fit obviously but I understand that I need to change the trans to a 727 and that will require a different drive shaft. I believe the k-member is ok (true?). Not certain what else will need to be changed once I make the decision and get into it.

Option 2: Sell the 383, pull the 360, remove all A/C elements, stroke it, change the intake manifold, change to a 4bbl. Keep the 904 and remaining drivetrain components, but modify it. I have been reading a little about the value of sticking to the small block and stroking it. Also reading a little about the possiblities of keeping the 904 and making some mods to it.
I am not looking for HP/torque overall... just looking to utilize the the components I currently have. Looking to make a solid running weekend driver. Something to be proud of that is MOPAR respectable.

Oh yeah... my son also has a 74 Duster (318 4bbl) that I may end up using the other solution. We will see how the 16 yr old handles the responsibility of the classic car first though. Either way the Challenger is the focus.

Thoughts?
 

res1vw21

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I would do a 408 out of the 360. You know it fits with the parts that you already have.
 

DetMatt1

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Don't get me wrong, a big block challenger is a fun car to drive, but I can't wait to restore my `70 340 car, less weight up front coupled with a responsive small block will REALLY be fun.
 

reefkeeper

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I think I'm with you guys on this as well... just don't know what I am going to do with the 383. lot of $$$ in it that I won't get back.

Oh well... I guess that is how it goes.
 

71383bee

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Nothing wrong with having a spare motor. I got 2 for now. a 72 400 and 70 340. the 400 I would get rid of, but the 340 you need to get from my grave!

The BB swap is pretty involved. The SB rad will not work because of different inlet/outlet locations. The k member will work fine. as mentioned you ned the BB tranny. The wiring will need to be modified and I am not 100% sure on the driveshaft. Not too mention the increase in weight.

I would stick with the 360 and drop it right in. Save the 383 for another project.
 

Mopar Jay

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To do the 383. Schumacher makes a mount kit for the conversion so you don't have to change the K-member. Also a big block trans is a must. You should already have a big-block rad. All a/c cars came from the factory with the 26 in rad even the small blocks. Driveshaft will be to long if your swapping in a 727. A local shop can cut it down and balance it for ya. Mancini racing has custom shafts for about $400 brand new. Wiring is also going to have to be extended to reach the dist. My only question is what rear do you have? Anything below the 8-3/4 is not going to last long if your looking to build more torque.
 
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71383bee

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To do the 383. Schumacher makes a mount kit for the conversion so you don't have to change the K-member. Also a big block trans is a must. You should already have a big-block rad. All a/c cars came from the factory with the 26 in rad even the small blocks. Driveshaft will be to long if your swapping in a 727. A local shop can cut it down and balance it for ya. Mancini racing has custom shafts for about $400 brand new. Wiring is also going to have to be extended to reach the dist. My only question is what rear do you have? Anything below the 8-3/4 is not going to last long if your looking to build more torque.


Jay isn't the bottom inlet for the rad different b/n SB and BB? I do know the BB rads had the sale top outlet on the left side.
 

Hitman

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I guess I am going to be the bad guy here and say i would use the Big Block. I have an aluminum headed 512 in my street car and would not have it any other way. Do not get me wrong those small blocks are bad but when you are not racing and useing the car to cruise around in mostley it sure does look good to see a big block under the hood.

I used stock big block mounts and they hooked right up.. no need for any special mounts. Radiator is easy as you can get an aluminum one for $230 for a big block. Drive shaft is simple as a local shop can take care of that..

I for one love my Big Block Challenger...

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bad440

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Big block in my opinion would be the way to go(already re-built). You need bigger rad, trans for big block, driveshaft from any E body that was originally equipped with a 727 will fit.(lots of them around) The water pump housing is not a problem as there are 2 differerent styles which will line up with whatever rad you buy. A small block rad even AC equipped will not be big enough, get at least a 3 core to cool that engine, not worth taking a chance of overheating. You will appreciate the torque of that big block, trust me.
 

Chryco Psycho

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Cheaper to do the Small block as far as mounts & other parts , the V8 K frame is fine for both , you will probably have more power + better handling with the small block . Having said that I really like the big blocks better , no water / heat in the intake , external oil pump , flat oil pan , no banana seals that leak , dist in front , removable water pump without removing the whole housing , more choises for heads & intakes . doing a 383 I would stroke it to 436 CI with a 440 crank & rods , the 383 barely has any more stroke than the small blocks & is heavier + you need a different trans & driveshaft , rad etc .
 
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