Clutch ticking noise

[KPB]

Hi all,

After a drive where I occasionally used the clutch a bit more "firmly", everything still felt and sounded normal. I then parked the car for 1–2 hours, and only when setting off again did I notice a new ticking noise. At first, I suspected an exhaust leak, as I thought I could also hear it when standing next to the car, and it initially went away quite quickly as the engine warmed up. Later, however, it seemed more related to the clutch – appearing whenever the clutch pedal was pressed, from just lightly touching it to fully depressed.

• Sound: “ting-ting-ting”, varies with engine speed
• Sometimes disappears as the engine warms up, but not consistently
• Can persist for a while, but also go away after a mile
• Driving and shifting still feel completely normal

My first thought is the throw-out bearing, though I’ve had a defective one before that made more of a “howling” noise rather than ticking… so I’m wondering if there could be other possible causes. Any ideas or similar experiences?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I have had the surface of the disc break away , I would pull the cover & inspect closely .
What brand , How new ?

 

[KPB]

Can't really say, came with the car, at least 11 years old..

 

[Steve340]

I heard a clutch make a sort of ticking noise once - it was a bent/cracked release arm of the pressure plate.
This clutch did work but was somewhat juddery when you tried to get moving from stopped.

 

[KPB]

Get moving feels pretty much the same as always; it’s only the noise that stands out. I still need to test it again next week — the last time I parked it in the garage, the noise disappeared. I also have a shop appointment next week so they can take a look, but it’s good to have a few clues I can pass along to them.

Just in case the entire clutch assembly ends up needing replacement... any advice on how to positively identify the correct parts? Are there any part numbers or casting numbers that can be seen through the bellhousing inspection cover? Shipping takes a while to get here, and I can’t leave the car sitting at the shop for weeks or have them pull the drivetrain apart twice.

 

[Steve340]

Talk to Brewers.

 

[Challenger RTA]

ticking noise

It's probably a Ford or Chevy that got caught under when passing them.

Post a video on Youtube then post a link here. Someone here might know what it it.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

You should have a 130 tooth flywheel so you need a 10.95" setup , the disc could be 23 spline [ more likely ] or 18 spline HD trans .
I would use McLoud or Ram or Zoom , Stay away from Centerforce garbage , I prefer to use factory Bog & Beck 3 finger type over Diaphragm type as the factory system is design
for the 3 finger type , throw distance & removal of the overcenter spring is usually different with Diaphragm type

 

[KPB]

It's probably a Ford or Chevy that got caught under when passing them.

Post a video on Youtube then post a link here. Someone here might know what it it.

Ok will try it but can only do by next week when going home

You should have a 130 tooth flywheel so you need a 10.95" setup , the disc could be 23 spline [ more likely ] or 18 spline HD trans .

The reason why I'm asking is also because originally it was a 3 speed manual and I have no idea what had to be changed for the 4 speed. But let's see what is really needed in the end...