Direct Connection 727 shift kit

[challboy728]

I had a Direct Connection / Mopar Performance shift kit installed in the A727 transmission out of my 1970 Dodge Challenger. I don't like how the transmission shifts and I would like to take the kit out. I saved all the parts that were removed from the transmission and saved the instructions, however, now I have misplaced the instructions. Wondering if anyone might a copy of the instructions that they could post. Thanks in advance!!!

 

[Vaanth]

I had a Direct Connection / Mopar Performance shift kit installed in the A727 transmission out of my 1970 Dodge Challenger. I don't like how the transmission shifts and I would like to take the kit out. I saved all the parts that were removed from the transmission and saved the instructions, however, now I have misplaced the instructions. Wondering if anyone might a copy of the instructions that they could post. Thanks in advance!!!

If the kit is P3690633, the following images show the instruction sheet and an original kit:

 

[challboy728]

If the kit is P3690633, the following images show the instruction sheet and an original kit:

View attachment 144861

View attachment 144860

That its it!!!! Thank you so much!!

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

The reason you probably don't like the shift is the kit has you crank up the line pressure. What they say to do makes it way too high. You can back that setting off a couple of turns to correct. The accumulator blocker rod and front servo mods are very good. You want the quick firm shift as it helps the trans lifespan. Cranking up the line pressure does not do so.

 

[challboy728]

The reason you probably don't like the shift is the kit has you crank up the line pressure. What they say to do makes it way too high. You can back that setting off a couple of turns to correct. The accumulator blocker rod and front servo mods are very good. You want the quick firm shift as it helps the trans lifespan. Cranking up the line pressure does not do so.

Thanks for the info. I'll give your suggestion a try. I manually shift it up and down now. If I leave it in D, it immediately shifts into second then third when I start out. Also, the transmission doesn't kick down if I get on the gas.

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

Thanks for the info. I'll give your suggestion a try. I manually shift it up and down now. If I leave it in D, it immediately shifts into second then third when I start out. Also, the transmission doesn't kick down if I get on the gas.

That is a classic example of the kickdown setup not being adjusted properly. Unless the valve body is setup to be a manual shift only, the kickdown lever provides throttle pressure to the bands/clutches and is vital for the health of your unit. Is the kickdown lever functioning? There are two levers on the driver side of the trans, and the kickdown lever is on top. It connects through a series of rods to the carb so when the carb is opened the lever is pushed back. You might try adjusting the adjusting rod at the carb to be longer which will provide additional travel of the lever at the trans. See if that helps with the quick shifting issue you see. Proper adjustment of the kickdown is vital, and the trans can be damaged if left like that.

 

[michiganhotrod1]

That is a classic example of the kickdown setup not being adjusted properly. Unless the valve body is setup to be a manual shift only, the kickdown lever provides throttle pressure to the bands/clutches and is vital for the health of your unit. Is the kickdown lever functioning? There are two levers on the driver side of the trans, and the kickdown lever is on top. It connects through a series of rods to the carb so when the carb is opened the lever is pushed back. You might try adjusting the adjusting rod at the carb to be longer which will provide additional travel of the lever at the trans. See if that helps with the quick shifting issue you see. Proper adjustment of the kickdown is vital, and the trans can be damaged if left like that.

I second this. There is a shop manual process for the adjustment, and it may take a few tries but try that first before anything else.
Mine had no kickdown and shifted early and once the kickdown was restored the shift speeds improved some too
Mark

 

[pschlosser]

That is a classic example of the kickdown setup not being adjusted properly.
...
Proper adjustment of the kickdown is vital, and the trans can be damaged if left like that.

I third this.

I recall a buddy back in the 1990s ruined a transmission running it this way. At moderate or heavy throttle, the transmission would immediately upshift. He was forced to start out in 1, and manually upshift the gear selector to simulate normal operation. He said, after 4 years of daily driving, it began slipping badly, so he got another used transmission from the wrecking yard. That was around the time I met him, and he invited me to help him swap out the tranny. On the day of the swap, as we were preparing to remove the old transmission, I noticed he didn't even have the one-piece kick-down rod installed. Was installed the other tranny, but he went back to the wrecking yard to score a proper kickdown rod. I've heard some say when the throttle pressure is really low, it creates a problem internal to the transmission, and increases wear to the clutch pack. Particularly, if you're doing burnouts, and operating the tranny under heavy loads (street racing)

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

I third this.

I recall a buddy back in the 1990s ruined a transmission running it this way. At moderate or heavy throttle, the transmission would immediately upshift. He was forced to start out in 1, and manually upshift the gear selector to simulate normal operation. He said, after 4 years of daily driving, it began slipping badly, so he got another used transmission from the wrecking yard. That was around the time I met him, and he invited me to help him swap out the tranny. On the day of the swap, as we were preparing to remove the old transmission, I noticed he didn't even have the one-piece kick-down rod installed. Was installed the other tranny, but he went back to the wrecking yard to score a proper kickdown rod. I've heard some say when the throttle pressure is really low, it creates a problem internal to the transmission, and increases wear to the clutch pack. Particularly, if you're doing burnouts, and operating the tranny under heavy loads (street racing)

When the kickdown lever is moved back (as the throttle is opened further) the line pressure is increased. This increase in pressure allows the clutches & bands to grip & apply properly, more pressure being applied as the throttle is opened further. Without this additional pressure the bands & clutches cannot do their part and will slip... eventually burning up the transmission.

 

[challboy728]

In regard to the posts about adjustment of the throttle kickdown rod, I have attached pictures of my current setup with the throttle closed and wide open. When wide open, the lever on the transmission is at the end of its rearward travel. I am at the end of the adjustment on the kickdown rod. As you can see, a fair amount of travel of the accelerator cable is required before the kickdown starts to engage. I believe the setup is correct, I welcome any insight.

 

[Vaanth]

In regard to the posts about adjustment of the throttle kickdown rod, I have attached pictures of my current setup with the throttle closed and wide open. When wide open, the lever on the transmission is at the end of its rearward travel. I am at the end of the adjustment on the kickdown rod. As you can see, a fair amount of travel of the accelerator cable is required before the kickdown starts to engage. I believe the setup is correct, I welcome any insight.

View attachment 146125

View attachment 146126

With the throttle closed, the rear of the slot in the slotted rod should be touching the linkage stud unlike the position in your picture. With the throttle fully open, the throttle pressure valve lever on the transmission should be pushed fully back, but with slight play indicating no overtravel.

The gap in the slotted rod to throttle stud will cause transmission upshift issues, and ultimately, potential internal transmission damage. It appears that the return spring is not pulling the rod back to the correct point, or the linkage is limited from traveling the rest of the way forward to close the gap.

The bracket, pivot, and upper slotted link looks okay. The one piece rod to the transmission looks correct from what is seen, but may be binding or bent. Your rod adjustment lock bolt seems too far forward on the rod. That is not causing the slotted rod position, but could indicate an issue with the main rod or the lever at the throttle pressure valve pivot on the transmission may be wrong. The lever may be too short or angled wrong.

The following images show my T/A 340 setup at closed and open throttle:

In the following image of throttle levers, your should be like the long version in the upper left, with an upward angle:

The 1970 340 six barrel and 1971-1972 440 six barrel used a one piece rod, shaped like the following image:

The following image of my other T/A, but with a 440, shows it's different multi-piece linkage setup, but with a similar slotted link to throttle stud position:

The rod adjustment is described in the factory service manual in the transmission section.

 

[challboy728]

With the throttle closed, the rear of the slot in the slotted rod should be touching the linkage stud unlike the position in your picture. With the throttle fully open, the throttle pressure valve lever on the transmission should be pushed fully back, but with slight play indicating no overtravel.

The gap in the slotted rod to throttle stud will cause transmission upshift issues, and ultimately, potential internal transmission damage. It appears that the return spring is not pulling the rod back to the correct point, or the linkage is limited from traveling the rest of the way forward to close the gap.

The bracket, pivot, and upper slotted link looks okay. The one piece rod to the transmission looks correct from what is seen, but may be binding or bent. Your rod adjustment lock bolt seems too far forward on the rod. That is not causing the slotted rod position, but could indicate an issue with the main rod or the lever at the throttle pressure valve pivot on the transmission may be wrong. The lever may be too short or angled wrong.

The following images show my T/A 340 setup at closed and open throttle:
View attachment 146127
View attachment 146133

In the following image of throttle levers, your should be like the long version in the upper left, with an upward angle:
View attachment 146129

The 1970 340 six barrel and 1971-1972 440 six barrel used a one piece rod, shaped like the following image:
View attachment 146131

The following image of my other T/A, but with a 440, shows it's different multi-piece linkage setup, but with a similar slotted link to throttle stud position:
View attachment 146128
View attachment 146130

The rod adjustment is described in the factory service manual in the transmission section.

Thank you for your time and the wealth of information!! When I purchased the car, the owner had switched out the 6 pack in favor of a 4 barrel. I re-used the 4 barrel linkage when i put the 6 pack back on - do you know if the kickdown rod and transmission lever for the 4 barrel is different than what is used on the 6 pack setup?

 

[Vaanth]

Thank you for your time and the wealth of information!! When I purchased the car, the owner had switched out the 6 pack in favor of a 4 barrel. I re-used the 4 barrel linkage when i put the 6 pack back on - do you know if the kickdown rod and transmission lever for the 4 barrel is different than what is used on the 6 pack setup?

The four-barrel linkage is originally a three piece setup. The main bracket from the four barrel setup won't fit with the Six Pack, and the other stuff would not line up. What is pictured look like the right 340 Six Pack setup. The upper part of the one piece rod to the transmission looks correct.

Your linkage is definitely pulled back, so something lower/further back is not right. Look at the angle of the pivot bar, compared to mine. Mine is near vertical with the throttle closed, and the linkage stud is positioned correctly in the slot. Yours is pulled back with the linkage stud not positioned correctly in the slot. Pull forward on the slotted link and see if it will align with the stud, or if it is binding. If it pulls forward smoothly, your return spring might be weak.

The lever on the transmission is listed different between the four barrel and six barrel. If you have the long one as shown earlier, it should be okay.