Header leak - I need advice

[Cuda360]

I would go ahead and remove both heads and take them to a machine shop in the area and have them check all the threaded holes in both heads and repair any that are either stripped out or getting ready to strip out. No telling how many times the heads have had the exhaust bolts removed and replaced. Depending on how many miles are on the heads , they might be ready to have a valve job done. It will never be cheaper to have it done as long as the heads are off anyway. When a valve job is done ,the machine shop will check for warpage, cracks and leaks. Valve guides, springs, etc. I would also install studs in as many of the holes that have clearance with your headers. That way you won't be fighting to align the bolt holes on your headers and can't strip the head again. At worst you might strip a nut. With the intake manifold and heads off, it is very easy to inspect the camshaft lobes and timing chain. If you find a lot of gunk, it probably wasn't maintained very well.

Cool, thanks for the input. I was told the motor was rebuilt a couple of years ago (though no proof was provided; hope he didn't lie to me) so hopefully it won't need too much work. I'll probably get a new intake manifold and carburetor while I've got them off. Any suggestions for which ones will work best with my mild cam, and ported heads. I'm not looking to drag race... just want a little more low-to-mid range power.

Pictures to follow.

 

[moparleo]

If the engine was " rebuilt" and the heads were ported, and it has a mild cam, What are the specs for the cam? Was it installed straight up or retarded, or advanced. And if so ,how much? How much is it overbored? What type and compression of pistons were installed? What heads are on the engine now and how were they ported ? How much do they flow ? I really am not trying to be difficult, it is just that without more information from you, we don't know what parts will do the most to maximize you quest for more low to midrange power.
By the way, has the stalling issue been addressed at all yet ?

 

[Cuda360]

If the engine was " rebuilt" and the heads were ported, and it has a mild cam, What are the specs for the cam? Was it installed straight up or retarded, or advanced. And if so ,how much? How much is it overbored? What type and compression of pistons were installed? What heads are on the engine now and how were they ported ? How much do they flow ? I really am not trying to be difficult, it is just that without more information from you, we don't know what parts will do the most to maximize you quest for more low to midrange power.
By the way, has the stalling issue been addressed at all yet ?

Thats a lot of questions. The cam is a purple cam, that is all I was told... As for the timing, I'm not sure because TDC is not clearly marked. When the heads come off I will know for certain then do some adjustments. The guy helping with it believes the timing is off anyway and that, along with a questionable carburetor is not helping the stalling. I'll also be able to see the "port" job and measure the bore once they are off. I got a new ignition coil and battery also so it should be good to go when all of this is done.

We were only able to work on it for about an hour yesterday. The coolant, headers (and subsequently, the starter) & valve covers are out. Hopefully I can get the carb, ac, & manifold out by the weekend.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I always use studs with headers , at least that way the headers can be removed without draining all the coolant stops the leaks too . I agree with LEO , if the head looks bad pull them both & get them fixed , check the cam

 

[Cuda360]

I always use studs with headers , at least that way the headers can be removed without draining all the coolant stops the leaks too . I agree with LEO , if the head looks bad pull them both & get them fixed , check the cam

Heads are out! I did get some studs so I'll use as many as I can.
I've ordered a new intake manifold and carburetor too.
After taking the heads off I strongly considered new aluminum heads, these cast iron monstrosities are ridiculously heavy, but I don't really $1,500 right now...
Turns out it is bored .03 over and appears to have forged pistons.
I did decide to go with time serts, thanks for the suggestion.
Pics below...

 

[Chryco Psycho]

My choice would be the Holley Street dom intake & a Proform 850 carb the eddy RPM is the second choice , not sure what you ordered ?

 

[Cuda360]

My choice would be the Holley Street dom intake & a Proform 850 carb the eddy RPM is the second choice , not sure what you ordered ?

I got the RPM Performer intake and an AED HP 750.
The eddy was a little cheaper & the carburetor was recommended by the guy helping me with all this. He used them a bunch of times in the past and knows a couple of guys that work for them.

If I want to get rid of the AC I need to rework the belts, do I just reroute them or does an extra pulley need to be applied somewhere with new belts? I haven't decided if I want the AC yet; I won't use it, but it might be good to have someday.

 

[moparleo]

You will need to get at least one different pulley. You can contact manciniracing.com or bouchillon performance @ www.bpeusa.com for more info. They both sell new pulley sets for our Mopars.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Good choice for carb & intake , I like the street dom as it sits lower & allows more room for air cleaner height .
Mancini for the pullies for sure

 

[Yoopernut]

Had the same problem with Hooker headers on a 383. After trying new composition and expensive copper gaskets that both leaked, I went back to composition gaskets made by Hooker, put an 1/8" ring of Ulta Black silicone seal on port opening on both sides of gasket, let it set up before installing - and no leaks since! That was over a year ago.

 

[Cuda360]

Thanks all.
I'll check out Mancini for pulleys.

Heads have been cleaned, now I'm just waiting for the time sert kit to arrive.

I'm also redoing most of the electrical. There were a lot of un-coated wires that looked to be on their last leg. There also were some 'wires to nowhere'... So I pulled out my trusty Hayes Chrysler repair book to study the wiring diagrams.

I hope to have it running by early next week.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

It will definatly better than before then !!

 

[Cuda360]

Time serts are in, everything is clean. Re-assembly starts Monday...Finally!
I put the time-serts in every hole, most of the threads were a little dull so, why not?
1st pic is before insert, after drill & tap.
2nd is with insert.
3rd finding TDC.

 

[CHALLENGERRON]

I put a set of Remflex graphite gaskets on my 440 with my `I don't know who made 'em' headers after my rebuild. No leaks so far (all summer). And I actually had to undo and re-install the headers once, left the gaskets as they were.

I agree, I think the Remflex gaskets are the best gaskets on the market. Have a set on my drag car, no problems ever !

 

[Cuda360]

It's finally done!
Turns out the block is from '67...who knew?

 

[Chryco Psycho]

awesome !!

 

[Cuda360]

Well, it couldn't go without a hitch, could it?
The front connection of the fuel line is leaking, I've tried 3 different bowl fittings and even tried teflon tape, still leaking.
I really hope it is not the carb, it seemed fine when I took the line off.
I returned the line and got a new one this weekend.
It'll go on tomorrow.
Here's hoping...