Hard to say with no info, or pics. Yes, you should have a proportioning valve for proper function, but you should still have pressure. Did you put in the correct master cylinder, is it correctly connected to the brake pedal or booster rod long enough; are the lines hooked up properly; did you bleed the brakes; are the calipers on the correct side; rubber hoses in good shape....
te front line from te master feeds te rear brakes & sould connect to te bottom of te proportionin valve , te rear line from te master feeds te front brakes left & rit at te top of te prop valve
It could be a 70 style proportionin valve , not 72 style .
I am missin letters between F & I bit I believe you can understand !!
" No pressure" Does that mean that you have no pedal and it just goes to the floor, even after doing a proper bleeding of the master cylinder on the bench and then bleeding the entire brake system staring at the right rear wheel ?
Did you piece meal the conversion yourself or get the info from an article ? Or bought a conversion kit ? What are we working with ? What parts did you use ?
We need details. When you go to the Dr. and just say " I don't feel right " He is going to ask exactly what doesn't feel right and what does "feel right" mean?
Help us to help you.
Factory booster, master cylinder, brake calipers. New lines, proportioning valve. Went from manual to power. Pump the hell out of the pedal ok, let off and too the floor. Don't see any bubbles when bleeding the lines
The parts look good but, I would check the m/c bore size. I’ve seen this cause many headaches with barely having brakes to a cure for the problem by changing the m/c to the correct (usually smaller bore) cylinder. JMO