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cuda wannabe

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As the handle suggests I have a hankering for a Cuda or at least a Barracuda, BUT I know squat about them other than the drive trains (had a '72 340 Duster decades ago after the military and switched to GM while raising my family due to lower $$$) But need a LOT of Info B4 I go shopping. What is correct? , What RE's are behind what drive trains? (8 3/4 is the least HD I would consider) Accurate Values? Dream land aside. No numbers matching, AAR, Hemi or six pack stuff (THAT I can do myself) show cars or rare trailer queens, Just your average 318, late '72 -'73 340 or '74 360 Model driver, solid and clean. I am fully aware that here in the midwest prices are FAR below left and right coast cars. I have found several here within 80 miles in the 10K to 18K range. But I need some education. Please bear with my probably ignorant or dumb questions from time to time. I am not interested in "cloning"/ faking a car or butchering a numbers correct one. Just want what I want in style and equipment. (which I can add or subtract later) Anyway hello.:icon_bounce:
 
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moparleo

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Welcome to the site. We are glad to help you with your questions. I would suggest reading as many Mopar oriented books/mags as you can to become more familiar with the brand. As far as any pricing is concerned that is always subject to opinion. Check out our for sale section of the site for any possible cars or leads.
Good luck with your search.
 

burdar

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The two main things you need to know are these...

1. This is a hobby. Don't expect to make any money on the car. 99.999% of cars will cost more to restore then they will be worth when done. Build the car you want and enjoy it!

2. Bodywork is the most expensive part of the build. A low purchase price is always attractive but wait for the right car to come along. You will be thousands of dollars ahead in the long run by spending more on a rust free car to begin with.
 

cuda wannabe

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The two main things you need to know are these...

1. This is a hobby. Don't expect to make any money on the car. 99.999% of cars will cost more to restore then they will be worth when done. Build the car you want and enjoy it!

2. Bodywork is the most expensive part of the build. A low purchase price is always attractive but wait for the right car to come along. You will be thousands of dollars ahead in the long run by spending more on a rust free car to begin with.


I should probably mention a couple things -heh heh I am FAR from a beginner I am a long standing member of two car clubs and built street rods and Chevy's since 1977. Mechanic from 1983 to 1986, Welder/Fab since to 2006. + retired. A few years after dropping mopar due the expense. (Not cheap then and worse now.) So I can only agree with you on both counts. I am looking for a driver along these lines - 00606_l4qtvzek2AJ_600x450.jpg73 Barracuda
Tor-Red/Hemi orange
340 4-barrel w/aluminum intake and mild cam (originally a 318)
8.75 Sure Grip rear with 3.55 gears
TorqueFlite 3-speed automatic
Power steering 17.9 K
There are two more, a 72 318 w new paint and interior, It was a black vinyl top car but is no longer,Plum Crazy/Black int. 12K and a Petty blue 71 340 (transplant) for 16K. All about as above. I have looked at all three and more. There is a numbers correct 73 340 Challenger as well,needs total restoration. BUT is complete somewhat rare (I am told) red paint red interior for 15.5 K. (I would probably go for that if things were different) and they go both up and down from there. From Junk to sky's the limit.
One final note- This car is not for resale or investment, My health is not great so I want a car I can leave my family. I sold my collection to pay for the medical bills. W some left over I am now looking again. I will be watching the ads . Thank you.

00606_l4qtvzek2AJ_600x450.jpg
 

challenger6pak

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I am pretty sure without looking it up that 1970 is the only year Challenger came with a red interior. Something else may be off on that 73. Buy the cleanest car you can afford.
 
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