Lock up or no lock up Need help

[challengingjab]

I'm having trouble with engine stalling after warm up when dropping in gear. Runs fine for a short drive then after stopping fo a few minutes and leaving motor run when put in gear motor dies. does this every time I restart unless I hold gas pedal down pretty far .And then the car will lunge and take off untill I stop again and then same thing happens again. I have had a couple of guys tell me that the coverter is not releasing when engine coasts back down to idle. And when I go to put car back in gear it is just like letting out the clutch on a stick with trans in gear and engine at idle. and converter needs replaced. makes sense to me !! So here is where the problem starts. I called jegs about a new converter. since I have installed a mild street comp cam and a cheetah manual valve body. I decided to go with a mild stall converter. I am working with a 1970 chrysler 440ci (375HP) at start and a TF727 Trans.not shure what year. I gave this info to their tech and he told me he needed to know if it was a locking trans and if the engine was a internally or externally ballenced engine i can check the engine but don't know about the transmission. I thought all TF727 TRANS were non locking and if not how do you tell. Plus I can't find a converter listed for a locking TF727. Does anyone know for certain if there is a locking 727 ? I thought only overdrive trans were lock up trans. Please help anyone!!

 

[moparleo]

You talked to the wrong guy. No lock-up convertors for the 727.

Have you recently done work on the car or did it start doing this out of the blue?
Why the manual valve body for a street car ?

 

[challengingjab]

Hi Moparleo: I knew if you seen this you would know the answer. much recent work on car has been done car already had cheetah kit when purchased. just changed to forward patern kit because no kick .down linkage and I like to shift manually also new comp cam kit. and Holley 770 street avenger carb and headers

 

[moparleo]

Did it have this problem before you did work on it ?

 

[challengingjab]

I don't belive so we just got it back together after being torn down 12 years ago . I did have a problem with the timing when it was first started , it was off a full tooth on the timing set and the carb that it was first put on the engine was running too lean and causing the engine to run hot it did stall once and do this but I belive that was caused by engine heat and vapor lock, because fuel filter was empty. after engine cooled down it ran fine . that was before corecting timing problem and changing carb. I sure apprerciate your help with this . dosent seem like anyone else has any ideas.

 

[moparleo]

You have to sort out the problems one at a time. Does the engine start and idle properly now ? If not ,that needs to be addressed first. Also Do not drive without the kickdown linkage hooked up or you can damage your transmission. The kick down rod regulates the fluid pressures inside the trans. As you push down farther on the gas pedal the kickdown rod also pushes the pressure lever to increase line pressures.

 

[challengingjab]

Moparleo: Engine starts fine but runs a little ruff untill choke opens a little about 1-2 minutes, after that runs fine until driven for short time and engine comes up to normal temp about 180 degs. then after stopping and idleing at what seems to be normal in netural for a short time if dropped in to either reverse or forward engine dies instantly.It does this continually after restarts unless you hold gas pedal down considerately faster than normal idle speed of around 8-9 hundred rpm. has to be fast enough that car lunges forward when droped in gear or engine dies. A friend of my son's told him that incorect timing or carb adjustment could be causing a drop in vacum and cause this problem. I haven't had the time to work on it for a few days , so I haven't checked the vacum yet what do you think? As far as the transmission goes it is a full manual valve boby and does not require kick down linkage. As per manufactures instructions valve body is designed to regulate pressures kick down linkage is not required. My first thoughts about torque converter causing the problem my son's friend says is probably incorect because after car sets for a while and cools down like mabe the next day every things seems normal until after warm up again. He says he has seen this fool people several times. Again what is your opinion? thanks Jerry

 

[moparleo]

OK. You have a 440 correct ? Are you running electronic ignition or points ? Timing should be 12-14 Degrees BDTC at idle with vacuum advance disconnected. Idle speed should be 750-800 rpm at idle in park or neutral. Reconnect vacuum from distributor to carb port. When idling with engine warmed up you should be able to put trans into gear holding the brake and the RPM should drop 50-100 rpm and hold. If it stalls, you may have a vacuum leak. Vacuum should be 15-18 lbs. at idle and steady. If you cannot get the vacuum needle to steady with adjustment you have a possible intake leak. Check for possible intake, carb base leaks with a spray bottle with water in it. People will tell you to use carb cleaner or some other flammable liquid. Do Not Do this. All we are looking to do is cause the rpm to change. If you use water the rpms will decrease, if you use a flammable liquid, the rpm will increase. We get the same result without spraying flammable liquids all over the intake manifold and carb. Which do you think is safer? Try this. The problem with trying to diagnose a problem is hard enough without actually looking at the car and trying to do this with modifications that are unknown makes it even harder to do.
There are factory specs for all carb and timing adjustments for a stock engine. If the engine/trans has been modified you are pulling at straws and guessing a lot.

 

[challengingjab]

First I am using electronic ignition, and a Holley Street Avenger carb. 770cfm electric choke that has a metered vacuum port so there is no vacuum to the distb. at idle. and yes it is a 440. I have not tryed your procedures I will wait untill I hear from you on this information to see if there are any changes you think need to be made. THANKS

Jerry

 

[transman]

You talked to the wrong guy. No lock-up convertors for the 727.

Have you recently done work on the car or did it start doing this out of the blue?
Why the manual valve body for a street car ?

A bit late on this post, but lockup 727's available starting in 1978 on 225,318,360 and 400 inch engines.