Overvoltage/Not charging.

[Xryan]

I have a alternator that is putting out about 30V (at the alternator B), and a battery that's not getting charged, which is probably a good thing since the voltage is so high.
A little history, I think the original problem was the positive at the alternator was grounded to the alternator housing, there was no plastic grommet.
I've since put in a new alternator and a new voltage regulator with the same results. I added an extra ground to the voltage regulator and cleaned all connections from the battery ground to the body and block.
When I pull the green wire from the field, voltage drops to zero.
In my searching I noticed that the amp meter was getting hotter than **** with just the battery on, so I by passed it and added a inline 50amp fuse and volt meter thinking the amp meter was bad and was the main problem. No help, with the exception of no hot amp meter.
Suggestions would be helpful! Sometime this week I'm going to get another voltage regulator, I've heard horror stories of multiple bad ones and check the firewall connections.
Weird system that the amp meter/volt meter is always hot and not switched.

 

[74 challenger]

Do a search on overcharging. Had the same problem and alot of guys helped me.PM DODJ he knows his stuff on this.Make sure all connections are clean even at the bulkhead. Grease them up, check this out- http://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/showthread.php?4802-alt-overcharging

 

[74 challenger]

welcome to the site from S Carolina

 

[Xryan]

Thank you

 

[moparleo]

Please,please,please, unless you want a fire, Never, never ,never put a 50 amp fuse in a dash wire or any where else in the harness for that manner. The fuse must always be rated for less than the amp rating of the wire it is connected to, other wise, think about it, If the harness will melt down at 10 to 15 amps max, guess how much good a 50 amp fuse is going t do since the harness will go up in smoke before you blow a 50 amp fuse. Rather than put a fuse in the line, the safest thing is to bypass the gauge completely. This is why modern cars have a volt meter, not an amp gauge.

EVERY ONE PLEASE READ THIS ARTICLE :: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

 

[Xryan]

Please,please,please, unless you want a fire, Never, never ,never put a 50 amp fuse in a dash wire or any where else in the harness for that manner. The fuse must always be rated for less than the amp rating of the wire it is connected to, other wise, think about it, If the harness will melt down at 10 to 15 amps max, guess how much good a 50 amp fuse is going t do since the harness will go up in smoke before you blow a 50 amp fuse. Rather than put a fuse in the line, the safest thing is to bypass the gauge completely. This is why modern cars have a volt meter, not an amp gauge.

EVERY ONE PLEASE READ THIS ARTICLE :: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

Thx.
Check out the picture closer when you get a chance. That wire is pretty thick and comes from the alternator is my understanding. (Through the firewall). Although my amp meter is bypassed, I agree, I think Ill move that fuse to u under the hood.
The idea was extra protection that wasn't there, those fuses are ptetty fast acting.
Ill definitely check out the article though.

 

[moparleo]

A 50 amp load requires a 6 ga. minimum wire. That would be the size of a battery cable.

 

[Xryan]

For anyone else reading this in the future, the problem was at the engine side of the firewall harness/plug. This schematic pin out number on my 74 is 18, but it was clearly fried once I pulled it off and looked at it.


I bypassed it ( cut the wire on the back side of the harness) and fussed it and ran an 8 guage wire straight to the battery.

As far as the overvoltage at the alternator, I think the lack of load from battery was causing it, but I put on another new voltage regulator during the process so Im not sure. I'll slap the old one on today just to satisfy my curiousty.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Glad you found it !