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Removing the tabs on the 8 speed

roadrunninMark

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For those of you that have installed the 8 speeds, did you grind off all the tabs on the sides to allow it to fit better? Grind all the way to the case? I am trying not to cut my car up to get it to fit so I would like to move as many or all tabs. Are there any that should not be removed?
 
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roadrunninMark

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Here is the ones I am talking about... any others or that is all I need to remove?

tab3.jpg
 

Chryco Psycho

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I have not done this but you should be fine going almost flush with the case , it has to be strong there if they are mounts .
 

AUSTA

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I cut the middle 1's & ground them flush measured with an ultrasonic guage i had casing seems to be aroung 4.5mm thick around the thinnest mid section

318240812_693092965661212_359108714226628749_n.jpg
 

ItsJustMe

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This is all I had to grind off. I am using the RMS front setup with the motor mounts moved one inch forward though. You can also see in the picture that my breather got crushed. It is right on the floor pan/fire wall seam so I had to flatten it a bit.
8385172D-6DC7-46CA-83E7-58A932839DA3.jpeg
 

roadrunninMark

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Thanks for the replies...

What is the 90 degree piece you guys are using for the breather and where did you get it?
 

AUSTA

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Denny's Driveshafts has a good selection the steel output is from HTG HPR 8HP output flange
Sonnax T3-2-1859A

Aluminum Flange Yoke


  • 1350 series
    • Fits 1350 series universal joints listed at bottom of this page
    • Fits 3.625 x 1.188 u-joint size
  • Outside Snap Ring style
  • 2.95 inch female pilot
  • 4.75 inch bolt circle
  • 1.750 inch CL to mounting face
  • Material: 6061-T6 Aluminum
  • Bolt Hole Dia.: 0.516"
  • Weight (lbs): 1.270
  • Bolt Count: 4
 

cudaragtop

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This is the Sonnax T35-ALFY-07
This is the one I have for my 8HP70. Apparently there are options... "¯\_(ツ)_/¯"
1675665299195.png

Specs
  • U-Joint Series: 1350
  • Pilot Type: M
  • Material: 7075-T6 Aluminum
  • Bolt Hole Dia.: 0.425"
  • Flange Face to Centerline: 3.440"
  • Bolt Circle Dia.: 94mm
  • Bolt Count: 6
  • Pilot Dia.: 4.251"
  • Weight: 1.670lbs
  • Flange Outer Dia.: 4.251"
 

roadrunninMark

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OK, I removed 2 tabs and 1 case "extension" per side.... here is before and after pics.. I didnt remove the left side tab that is closest to the torque converter, waiting to see if that is in the way, along with the threaded tabs that stick out above the cooler lines.

tab2.jpg


tab4.jpg


tab3.jpg


tab5.jpg
 

robcarnut

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Hi guys. I just got a 6.4 with the automatic. Looking to put it into a 70 Challenger that has a tired 383 non-original motor car. I am seeking your guidance on trying to avoid chopping up the chassis if it's feasible. I was told that Holly has an engine mount kit that moves the motor/drivetrain 1 inch forward that helps getting it away from the firewall etc. I'd like to upgrade the front end suspension with this install. I've seen the RMS? setup and QA1, with the larger brakes added. Any sharing of what you guys have gone through would be greatly appreciated. Stock 6.4 motor, would get the stock looking digital dash guages as well. Rob
 

SFEbody

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I am using the QA1 K-frame, moves teh engine forward so no firewall issues, you can photos on my blog:

 

heminut

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1moretoy

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This is all I had to grind off. I am using the RMS front setup with the motor mounts moved one inch forward though. You can also see in the picture that my breather got crushed. It is right on the floor pan/fire wall seam so I had to flatten it a bit. View attachment 102078

I know this is old but did you finish the car? What trans mount did you use? I'm using RMS 1" forward but need to find a trans mount.
 
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