rust fix on hood hinge area

[3406pk]

OK I have a question about what is going on and how to fix a problem of rust at inner fender where hood hinge bolts to it. Pictures attached. I know the best way to fix the thing is to replace inner fender with new piece. However the purple Cuda is an all original survivor (number matching AAR) and I don't want to do a restoration on it. It doesn't have any rust on quarters or fenders. I want to stop the rust from growing more. It has been in storage for like 7 years and the rust has grown. I checked under wheelwell and there is no serious rust showing and metal is sound (Good pull on magnet).
The hemi orange 72 challenger is in need of restoration and has rust on one side and other only has small spot.
Does anyone know a good way to fix this and stop rust from growing. I will try it on the Challenger first. Appreciate any help you can give. Thanks

 

[AlleyoopMgv]

OK I have a question about what is going on and how to fix a problem of rust at inner fender where hood hinge bolts to it. Pictures attached. I know the best way to fix the thing is to replace inner fender with new piece. However the purple Cuda is an all original survivor (number matching AAR) and I don't want to do a restoration on it. It doesn't have any rust on quarters or fenders. I want to stop the rust from growing more. It has been in storage for like 7 years and the rust has grown. I checked under wheelwell and there is no serious rust showing and metal is sound (Good pull on magnet).
The hemi orange 72 challenger is in need of restoration and has rust on one side and other only has small spot.
Does anyone know a good way to fix this and stop rust from growing. I will try it on the Challenger first. Appreciate any help you can give. Thanks

Well, you kinda know the answer already. If you don't cut out the old rust, it will just keep coming back.

 

[DetMatt1]

You can prolong the inevitable with some chemicals and coatings from Eastwood, but Alleyoop is right, remove & replace.

 

[ramenth]

Agreeing with both above. The chemical treatment will only prolong the inevitable. The only way to get rid of rust is to cut it out and replace it.

As far as survivor, I believe you're allowed 75% of the original paint and body? A new inner fender shouldn't inhibit it's survivor status.

 

[DetMatt1]

Agreeing with both above. The chemical treatment will only prolong the inevitable. The only way to get rid of rust is to cut it out and replace it.

As far as survivor, I believe you're allowed 75% of the original paint and body? A new inner fender shouldn't inhibit it's survivor status.

You could even just cut out as big a patch as needed and not replace the whole inner fender.

 

[FistyMopar]

yep I just did that on the Cuda

I could tell you better in person, but you'll have to remove the hinge and cut a square of the infected area, and butt weld in a piece the same gauge. As for the "big flat nut thingy" on the back, I took a piece of 11 ga. or 3/16 steel in a square and tapped the center for the hinge nut and took a sawzall to the sides to make the tabs. It takes an afternoon but if done right youll never tell unless you look inside the fender well under the undercoating.
I do this for a living, and masking the problem is only masking the problem, fix it right, even if you are the only one to ever see it! Do it for the car.

to prolong the process keep the car/ area as dry as possible, if thats not an option, dig it all out with a screwdriver, and paint it if you must with a rust converter or something. 1 step rust killer from interstate products out of FL, works well. (google them)

I have some pics here, and more on this site
http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm213/fistymopar/Fistys Previous Work/70 340 4-speed Cuda/

 

[3406pk]

If I replace the bolt area section of the inner fender, do you think I could form sheetmetal to replace rusted area or would I have to buy whole inner fender to cut the piece from. Thanks for replies.

 

[FistyMopar]

yep I just did that on the Cuda

I could tell you better in person, but you'll have to remove the hinge and cut a square of the infected area, and butt weld in a piece the same gauge. As for the "big flat nut thingy" on the back, I took a piece of 11 ga. or 3/16 steel in a square and tapped the center for the hinge nut and took a sawzall to the sides to make the tabs. It takes an afternoon but if done right youll never tell unless you look inside the fender well under the undercoating.
I do this for a living, and masking the problem is only masking the problem, fix it right, even if you are the only one to ever see it! Do it for the car.

to prolong the process keep the car/ area as dry as possible, if thats not an option, dig it all out with a screwdriver, and paint it if you must with a rust converter or something. 1 step rust killer from interstate products out of FL, works well. (google them)

I have some pics here, and more on this site
http://s297.photobucket.com/albums/mm213/fistymopar/Fistys Previous Work/70 340 4-speed Cuda/

 

[FistyMopar]

Dont know how that posted twice but....Yeah, I would just find a piece of mopar sheetmetal, older mopar stuff is usually the same gauge, dont use f**d or ch**y, its too thin. Its not really that bad of a project, its just in an inconvenient spot to get to. When your done, you can call totally auto and get you some single stage touch up paint and, poof--never happened.
I wouldnt waste the money on a new panel, its such a small spot. Call if you need a walk through it. 678 363 9318

 

[ramenth]

You could even just cut out as big a patch as needed and not replace the whole inner fender.

Was going to suggest that, but considering the OP had already stated replacement, figured that might be the way he wanted to go. Personally, I'd have no problems fabbing a patch like has been posted. Done plenty of it, depending on the car.

With the "depending on" being the caveat. An original surviving AAR? I just might be tempted to do the whole thing, simply because of the value of the vehicle.

 

[3406pk]

Thanks Fisty for the pictures of the repair that you made. that was a good fix on yours.
That will be very helpful in making the final fix. I like doing it that way to preserve the most original metal. What a mickey mouse design on the bolt/nut for the hinge. Thanks again to all who replied.