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Sub frame connectors needed?

Each to their own but you will never convince me a 2 dimentional full frame is better than a 3 dimentional unibody my Duster street car launched far harder than most street cars running 11 seconds back in 86 & was a far better ride overall even admitted by a chevelle owner who I let drive the Duster . Lb for Lb the unibody will be more rigid or lighter . The other factor is flex , it is much easier to flex a 2 dimentional frame & flex reduces the power transmitted to the ground .
The corvette IRS make a big difference in the way they hook up more than the full frame
 
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I guess this argument can go on forever. For a race car that doesn't hit pot holes, sit at a traffic light with a big cam shaking the hell out of you and the motor mounts I guess unibody is ok. But for a street car a full frame is better. Since we really don't have that option, like full frames that were mentioned above, we have to use sub frame connectors. That seems to be the easiest way to strengthen the cars we have.
 
Never said a Mopar couldn't knock your molars loose coming out of the hole. There are several things that will strengthen up a unibody. USCT makes a few things for the body.
Frame connectors
Torque boxes
core support
inner fender to cowl braces
Also there are somethings that can be done to the K-frame as well.
 
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Exactly why I recommended the Level 3 USCT kit. If you want your car to do what he was asking, you have to do the work, and you can do it in stages if it is too much ,money up front. Again nothing is free. "I want this but I don't want to do that ......"
 
Thanks for all the great info guys, I really appreciate it. I'll be putting something in this summer, so I'll just have to cool it with the hard launches till then.

Has anyone seen an e-body get twisted or wrinkled? Or a window break or pop out?
 
If you want to know what your car is doing when you "launch". Have someone with a camera take a video of your car when you do it. That is what the guys who race do. Then you can see what the car is really doing not what you think it is doing.
 
Thanks for all the great info guys, I really appreciate it. I'll be putting something in this summer, so I'll just have to cool it with the hard launches till then.

Has anyone seen an e-body get twisted or wrinkled? Or a window break or pop out?
Yes. A highly modified 440 Cubic Inch powered 71 Challenger convertible with out frame connectors. Chipped the paint off of the passenger door where it hit the quarter panel. Broke the convertible top hinge where it was welded above the rear window. Twisted bad enough that the glove box door came open. Wouldn't have happened if it hadn't hooked up. I had slicks on it. That was many years ago.
 
A few years ago I built a 71 Cuda V-code 4-spd S/T Pac Gunmetal car that was drag raced hard back in the day. Actually was also stolen and used in a robbery. Real early built car, anywho probably around 25 spot welds on the floor to frames had pulled apart and there were several fair sized cracks in the floors. Frames themselves were fine. No connecters but has factory torque boxes.
 
Oh these cars without SFCs definitely "flex". The more you beat on them the looser they get. I am not saying every car needs them per se, depends on the use but I will say that every car I build gets them along with torque boxes and usually under fender bracing as well.
 
Perhaps of interest related to this subject is that the modern Challengers benefit front added bracing as well. I put a strut bar in the front of my 2010 RT and the result was immediately noticeable. They make SFCs for this cars as well and I will probably be putting some on mine (although it does handle very well now).
 
I'd just like to add that my rear quarters are cracked at the b pillar on my 71 Cuda. Happened before I put in SFC.
 
I did a 71 Cuda vert with all Magnum Force stuff. K-frame with coil overs and R/P steering. Bolt in 4-link rear and their frame connecters. I will say that I will never use their crap again.
 
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