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Its all in the details. The new trunk pan is looking great!
Welding of gas tank brackets to trunk floor.
Currently installing the new brake and fuel lines while the floor is still out.
installing new brake lines before trunk floor install; a little easier access,
Original rear brake hose dated 277-9 = October 4th, 1969.
Getting the engine compartment new brake hardware together.
Used the originals for assembly of the new hardware:
I know it's easier to just get everything new but that wouldn't be a "restoration".
I also think that it's a great service to the authenticity of the restoration when the original parts are kept after replacement, like that brake hose with correct date and all....
Another thing I just noticed was the stud welds.
340, you have steady hands.
I've had success with 'The Right Stuff' <The Right Stuff - Disc Brake Conversions, Pre-Bent Lines, Brakes and More>.
Rear brake line hose installed finally.
Is that a rusty speedo cable? No, no, no! And you were doing so good too.
That’s the parking brake cable
Wanted to up-grade the welding helmet to a better unit
Picked up a Miller Unit "Digital Elite"
Compared around and found it for $214 w free shipping
Digital Elite Auto Darkening Helmet #281000 FREE gloves FREE shirt | Miller Welding | Welders Supply Company Beloit-Big Bend-Burlington Wisconsin and Rockford, Illinois
Looking forward; I picked up a restored 4934S Carter AVS carburetor. The carb that is on my car currently is a 4611SA; designated for a 69 340 4 sp car, obviously not the original carb. The car ran great with this carb, but is in dire need of a rebuild.
I also have a collection of 4934 carbs that I picked up over the years (all in need of restoration), as well as a 4639-specific to a 69 340 automatic w ac.
I looked at the cost of sending one of them out and decided to just pick up a correct/restored carb ready to bolt on.
Happy with the purchase (though it is one month off from my SPD-not critical for me)
Even has the original ID tag;
This of course is the 4611 that is now on the engine.
Are you planning to rebuild your 340 yourself?
Not immediately; engine ran great back when; I redid the heads back in the early 80’s with hardened seats and seals. Seals on the engine and heads are all dried out now and need attention. For now; I want to just get it running again and assess. Thinking of pulling the engine and doing new gaskets and seals for now. With 80 k on the engine, it will need a rebuild. Have not rebuilt an engine since the 70’s; (Army days) skills are very rusty. I would eventually like to do a 20/30 over bore with new pistons/rings and bearings. Really contingent upon the condition of the cylinder walls. Would probably now just send it out for that work and re-assemble myself.
Removed the original gas tank filler gasket from the old leaking tank. Can't believe the excellent condition it still is in (soft and pliable)
Original tank had numbers written on the top side under the padding. Can't make out some of the numbers.
How close are you to welding in that new floor?
Ready to weld in the trunk floor.
I have the floor attached to the frame with sheet metal screws places intermittently.
In thinking through the process; I was going to start welding from the center (left and right sides - frame rails) and proceed outward toward the front and rear of the car; spacing out the welds of course. I would weld the two piece pans center sections to each other last.
I have the front and back of the pans screwed in to the chassis also.
Was wondering if I should remove these screws to allow some small expansion from the heat for the panels in preventing warping as I work from the center of the pans outward?
Thoughts always welcome as I am certainly no welding expert!
Additionally, the trunk floor panels sits a little tighter to the frame rails when the panel is not attached to the rear tail light panel
It seems to make sense to remove the screws in this area while welding the center/sides then as the welding process proceeds, readjust the rear of the pans to meet the tail panel tighter.