318ci engine, blowing out black water / oil and steam

[cogaussie]

Hi everyone, I just revcently did my first oil change on my 72 Barracuda 318 that I just imported. I put in 4 litres of oil which was about 200mm over 4 quarts.

I ran the engine for about 2 mins then checked the oil, realised it was slightly over and took some out, the dip stick then read, on the full line.

Now when I started the car it emits black water / oil and steam from the exhaust. What has happened? head gasket? allowing water / anti freeze / boil in the the engine..

please help.

 

[74CudaDave]

How long does this last for? Does the engine show any signs of overheating? IS your coolant level ok? When the engine is cold, you are not getting optimum fuel burn, so you're probably just seeing incomplete ignition. If there are no signs of overheat, no coolant loss, or any other problem signs, let it run and warm up, if it goes away, then you should be OK. At the worst, your carb may be set too rich (does it have a choke, it could need adjustment).

My big block leaves little black puddles under both exhaust tips when it's cold, but it stops once the temp comes up.

Dave

 

[burdar]

Water is a byproduct of combustion. That's normal. Even if you had a blown head gasket, you wouldn't be seeing antifreeze exit the tailpipe. You would see white smoke and smell the antifreeze burning. Exhaust systems get sooty inside. The water from combustion is just washing some of that soot out of the system.

That water can build up in the muffler if you don't drive the car long enough to boil it out. Water sitting in the muffler will rot it out in a hurry. You can punch a weep hole in the back of your muffler...down low where the body is crimped onto the end cap. That will allow some of that water to escape so the muffler will last longer. You don't need a big hole. Just use an awl to punch a small hole. No bigger than an 1/8".

You should be keeping a close eye on all of the fluids....it is an old car after all. Take note if any levels drop.

 

[moparleo]

:icon_thumright:A perfect example of what not letting the car warm up to operating temperature can do to your exaust system, not to mention your oil. Unless you are over 40 you probably haven't had to let the car warm up very long as the computers will compensate greatly to your car running smooth enough to just start up and go. Prior to the age of fuel injection, we had a carberator and a choke. You had to wait for the temperature to come up enough to open the choke blade or it tended to stall. This allowed the fluids to warm to the proper temperature to perform their function properly, whether it was coolant, motor oil, transmission fluid etc. Current technology has made automobile operation so simple that people either forgot or never knew how it used to be. As burdar said, the exhaust system condenses part of the exhaust to water. Modern exhaust systems are usually double wall for noise and durability, there are usually small weep holes at the low points of the systems like the mufflers, resonators, These holes will plug up with carbon and debris, rusting out your exhaust system from the inside out. Just let it warm up and life will be easier.

 

[challenger6pak]

I have had several 318's that ran with a miss and had antifreeze and water come out of the exhaust due to a bad head gasket. I had a 73 Cuda that it ran out like a faucet was on. The water was exiting through the exhaust valve. It had straight through exhaust pipes that let the water flow. Pull the plugs on the engine and see what they look like.

 

[DetMatt1]

Next quesyion I think needs to be answered is, just how much of that mixture is coming out and for how long? I get little black watery puddles under my exhaust tips but nothing that I would even remotely describe like the op has.

 

[cogaussie]

Ok now that the condensation has cleared up I was just being a bit cautious. the condensation goes away but a smoke is still there , the car always did smoke a little bit when running , but seems to be more now not sure it maybe running rich...? what are your thoughts? What's the ideal oil to run in these cars? maybe this oil is too thin?

jc

 

[cogaussie]

I just checked the dipstick and there were signs of milkyness on it this could be due to the following thread, but doesn't explain the smoke.. the smoke is hurts your eyes like when a top fueler is running nearby.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=84304

 

[moparleo]

How many miles are on the motor ? Black smoke is fuel, grey smoke is oil and white smoke is coolant. Grey smoke when first started is likely worn oil seals on the valves, It should clear up after a few minutes running. What is the ambient temperature there ?

 

[cogaussie]

i think to od reads about 24,000 there is the black puddles when first start , and steam that clears up. Now I ran the car just before and checked the dip stick afterwards and there was a slight bit of cloudy oil on it. when the car was running there was the continuous greayish smoke and it hurts your eyes... maybe the carby is running rich... moparleo, you say it should clear up how long should it take?

 

[moparleo]

Check to make sure the choke works. If it doesn't open it will run rich. Is this the first time you have driven the car? Are you trying to keep the car totaly stock or open to modifications ?
Remove the spark plugs and check them for fouling. Do they have a fuel smell ? I would do a complete tune up so I know what I am working with.

Stock it came with a Carter 2 BBL., a Point type of distributor, The best thing you could do to make it run smoother and get better fuel economy, would be to upgrade to electronic ignition. Only about $200. or so complete. It comes with an new, not rebuilt, electronic ignition distributor complete with new cap, rotor, adjustable vacuum advance, orange performance ecm, adapter wiring harness. Change the spark plugs with the factory recommended Champions, stay away from "gimick" plugs. A high quality set of 8mm ignition wires(use dielectric grease in the boots, seals out moisture and prevents the wires from getting stuck when removed. Use a name brand of synthetic oil, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Castrol Edge, etc... and a good quality oil filter.The better you maintain your car, the better service you will get There should be a tune up spec sticker on the air cleaner housing or fender well. It will give the idle speed, timing and spark plug gaps. Use a vacuum gauge to adjust your carburetor if it doesn't need a rebuild and also put a fuel filter between the pump and the carb.
That should keep you busy and help you get to kinow your "new" car.

 

[cogaussie]

Leo, the choke could well be the problem. where is it? I will have to look in the workshop manual. I'm pretty sure there is a choke, is it auto?

 

[moparleo]

Go back to my prior posting. Does your car have a/c, auto trans, or manual, std. or power brakes ? You choke is probably manual. An electric choke would have an electric wire going to it on the passenger side of the carb. If it has not been running for a long time ( months before you got it) it probably needs a carb rebuild.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Do you know what cam is in the engine , what vacuum are you making ay idle ?
If the cam is large & or vacuum is low they will run rich at idle . What kind of carb do you have , you may need to swap power valve or metering rod springs to allow it to idle cleaner .
You need to start with the choke & make sure it is opening then start tuning the engine , this should getting it running better