360 Rebuild

[dfrazz]

I have a crate 360 but no history on it as the previous owner has not return any calls. I am considering doing a full rebuild on it rather than nickel and dime it to get it to perform well. Unfortunately I do not have time, space, and through knowledge to do the rebuild myself so this will be sent out to a local machine shop of which I am researching now. I don't have a lot of details on the engine (bore, stroke, cam, etc). I do know it has cast iron heads, Holley 4150 670 cfm carb, roller rockers and the block is stamped 1979. My primary objectives would be a very reliable, streetable, good performing engine with 375-400ish hp but no drag racing. I have a 727 3-speed auto with 3.91 gears (planning to switch these to 3.55). I don't want to have to change transmission, rear end, etc because of engine upgrades. My budget is around $3000 which will ultimate drive this project (like always). Has anyone had good/bad experiences with a rebuild? Any advice on recommended adjustments (change intake, what cam and intake/exhaust, change carb)? I'm also considering stroking this out to 408 but keep the compression around 9.5 and have been told this is fairly easy to do, and would welcome your thoughts on if this is good/bad and why. Thanks for your help!

 

[moparleo]

Is anything wrong with this engine? Making noises? Smoking ? Poor power ? Just want to spend $$

Why not take it to a shop with a dyno. Do a leakdown test, compression test. Drop pan, check bearings. Pull timing cover to check chain and cam. If every thing looks good, maximize performance with proper tuning and intake side component matching. Intake manifold, carb type and size, .Find out what you are working with first before committing to a rebuild.

 

[dfrazz]

So far I have changed all gaskets and fluid (no shiny parts in the oil), changed the timing cover gasket and seal (chain is fine but did not pull cam), rear main oil seal, had an electronic scope and timing adjustment. The engine is continuing to make ticking and rattling noises that are consistent with RPM's. I've gone over everything I know of and had a couple of mopar friends look at it too. It was a CO car before I had it and the carb seems to be functioning fine. Without doing a complete tear down we have all agreed it would be hard to determine the cause. My dilemma is how much do I keep going/spending when I should have stopped and just had a rebuild.

 

[moparleo]

It should be fairly easy to pin down your engine noise. Stethoscopes for cars are very inexpensive ( $5-10 ). How does it run ?

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I have seen crate engines that were os bad they would not run , I assume it is not making much for performance so maybe a teardown os in order if you cannot tune & diagnose the issues .
The 408 will pay dividends if you find issues with what you have , the probelm is you budget , 408 with good cylinder heads will make a lot of power with a matched cam etc

 

[moper]

It looks like it's got some decent parts. The power level you're looking for is reasonable with afresh engine and a camshaft.. So I'd say pull a head and see what the lower end has for pistons and what the bore size is, and go from there. "Ticking that changes with rpm" could be a lot of things, some of which are entirely normal for some types of camshafts, but if you're unsure perhaps the best way is to figure a rebuild and have it done. Where are you located? I do not feel that $3000 is enough to propoerly build a larger-than-factory stroke, even a very mild one which is what you're talking about.

 

[dfrazz]

I'm in Denver. I have researched 3 different mopar shops (American Automotive, Block Shop, Ridge Reamers) and a couple of guys with good reputations. Prices for a complete rebuild stroked to a 408 range from $5000-$3500. I've also looked up different crate engines as a replacement, but would like to use as much of what I have if possible. It seems like the more I diagnose the issues and through $300-500 at it here and there, it will fix something but then another pops up. My biggest worry is I have no history on the car, so I would like to start clean and I know what I have and how it was treated. I'm not looking to go crazy with HP and torque, but a good reliable engine that puts you in the seat when you step on it would be ideal.

 

[Adam]

Those headers look kind of old. The ticking could just be an exhaust leak. Start the engine when cold and quickly feel around the tops and bottoms of those header flanges, you will feel the leaks. Careful it will get hot quickly.

Rattling,could be a loose pulley. Also, double check the valve lash and look for bent push rods, maybe you will get lucky, those engines are pretty tough...

 

[dfrazz]

Thanks Adam. You are right about the headers, but I've pulled them twice and checked for leaks, replaced gaskets, and changed to Stage 8 bolts. All pulleys were checked and torqued, and measured the valves. All seems to check out ok. I am getting a new set of headers (Hooker Comp/Super Comp or TTI's) as these have got to go.

 

[Adam]

I installed new headers on my 440. They were very nice with 3/8 thick flanges; both the head and headers were very clean and looked straight, but that didnt matter. The new gaskets blew out and leaked in short order. I upgraded to copper gaskets and they never sealed... lastly I installed Remflex brand gaskets and they worked very well.

 

[EMCD]

Ridge reamer rebuilt my failed 360 into a 408. Pete is a great guy and knows mopars. My 408 is a beast!

 

[Chryco Psycho]

TTI is far better quality & fit than Hookers

 

[EMCD]

What part of Denver are you in? My first weekend with my Cuda all restored will be this weekend.

 

[dfrazz]

Aurora - Saturday is supposed to be near 60 degrees. Get out there and drive it!!

 

[dfrazz]

Good to know, thank you. I'm hearing good and bad about Western Engines. Any experience with any other Denver shops?

 

[dfrazz]

I switched to copper gaskets too. Good to know about Remflex, thanks.

 

[EMCD]

The motor I bought was originally built by dittmer, (spelling). The bore wasn't straight and the motor ate itself. Pete was really helpful land reuse all the parts he could. It made sense to pay the extra grand a get the stroker. I'm still waiting to see if the Cuda will be finished by tomorrow. I'm in west Denver and will be taking the car to many shows this summer? What year is your car?

 

[dfrazz]

'71 Challenger - I have a list of to do's (don't we all), but I need to get it running strong and reliable first. I'm switching the front brakes over to discs, replacing the starter, moving the fuel pump to the rear (for some reason it was mounted on the passenger inner fender by the headers), and replace the dash. My gauges need to be cleaned up too (lights not working, plastic lenses marked up) so I'm considering switching the gauges to rally. Eventually I want to have the body stripped, patched and painted but that might be down the road. Send a pic of your Cuda when you get it.