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440 6-pack crate engine - plugs not firing or valve issue?

wsr1961

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My "crate" engine is a 1974 block, 1970 intake manifold and Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum heads, with Hedman headers. I have had it about 10 days. It ran well at first, then one day I went to start it and it had gone from starting at the first turn of the starter to not starting at all. I had just bought the car 3 days before. I had driven it hard, but not too hard, a couple of times. I am talking about 3/4 throttle starts and such.

Anyway, when it would not start, I spent my first quality time under the hood. I found that a plastic spark plug wire restrainer on the 2-4-6-8 side had melted to the headers. The wires were clear, though. Then I walked around and #7 was all wadded against the head (not the header). I pulled it away from the heat source and checked the distributor. I found that it and another wire were disengaged. So I suppose I was n't starting because at least 2 wires were unplugged.

It is a beautiful engine ( visually) with some obvious quality parts. But the headers are damn hot and those plug wires are dangling. A little manipulating got everything running again. However, I could not find a way to restrain the plug wires from the heat sources with confidence, given the aftermarket heads and headers.

It ran well for two days. Then it choked out when stopped one day, which was also the day I had driven it the most. It has electric fans, a Be Cool radiator and a happy temp guage. This time it started easily, but it clicked all the way home, and I could feel the decrease in power. I spent more time under the hood, and saw that, in addition to a couple of plug wires with insulated boots, some were wrapped in foil and I even have a clotheshanger holding #4 and 6 away from the headers.

Any ideas how to stop this problem? Also, is it safe to assume it is ignition related? The clicking bothers me. However, I unplugged #7, my perennial problem wire and the clicking stayed exactly the same. That is also one of the wires that does not like to fit tight into the distributor.

I want to wrap or replace the headers, as they put out heat like an aluminum version of the sun. I think they take away as much power as they add by heating up the air going into the three deuces. I haven't dealt with header heat before so suggestions will be appreciated....they appear to be very thin, uncoated long tubes.

Then I have plug wires laying all over heat sources......any ideas? I can figure something out but would prefer it to be showworthy. Finally, I have to deal with wires pulling away from the distributor cap. Should I assume the cap is OK unless another set of wires fails to lock-in?
 
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moparleo

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You need to start out by putting high quality ignition wires. You can get them with ceramic boots that will never melt. You can go with Summit racing or Jeg's. If you just bought the car, what about checking withy the guy that sold it to you, it sounds like the person who installed the plug wires had little underhood experience. I would see if they want to make you happy. High quality wires cost over $100. bucks so don't be shy.
 

aussiemark

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Maybe wrap the headers this will insulate them so if the plug leads touch they won't burn and it will lower under hood temperature I've heard it makes the headers rust out quicker but you've got to do what you can to save your plug leads and lower the temperature and this method will work for sure.
 

DetMatt1

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I've never been a big fan of headers especially cheap thin ones but your wires shouldn't just be coming off your distributor cap either. If you gently expand the metal end that that goes down into the cap they should click into place and stay there but it sounds like you'll be buying a new set of wires anyways. If the cap is not the vented type I recommend changing it to one that is along with the heavy duty rotor. What ignition system are you running?
I'd be looking to replace those headers with a set from TTI or better yet a real pair of exhaust manifolds, headers just suck on a street car.
 

aussiemark

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I agree ,maybe just wrap them for now and save for the good ones and when these rust out due to being wrapped it's no big loss. Will original exhaust manifolds work with Edelbrock heads? some of them have angled sparkplugs.
 

DetMatt1

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I hadn't heard that and I like an iron head personally so even more reason to stick with what has been proving itself for decades.
 

aussiemark

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A lot of aftermarket aluminium heads do have angled plugs I looked at 440 source heads because they have straight plugs I know Edelbrock performers are angled and some specs listed Edelbrock E street heads as angled or straight (never figured that out) and I want to use original high performance exhaust manifolds but I found some Mopar Performance aluminium heads with straight plugs and didn't need spacer plates to use standard port location intake manifolds so I bought them better to go with original parts anyway.
 

AUSTA

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Be careful with edelbrock heads i am not sure if the BB heads have the same problem as the SB when fitting HIPO cast manifolds you have to grind the rear lug on the head to so the manifold has a small gap
If you do up the exhaust & it binds on the head it will shatter the manifold.
Test fit the exhaust manifold without the gasket to make sure the flange surfaces butt evenly against the head before tightening the bolts
 

David Hunt

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Buy these, no problems pm me
IMG_20161014_135232.jpg
 

cudabob496

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I custom cut to length my own MSD wires. Then you can install 180 degree or 90 degree
boots to avoid the headers. The 90 degree boots are installed on wires that come up from the bottom
under the headers. A lot of the issues you have should have been caught before you drove the car. Give everything a good close inspection, and a tune up.
 
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