73 Challenger in Japan

[Kuruton]

Hello!

Just joined as I picked up a 73 Challenger 440 swap this year here in Japan. Prior to this, I only ever worked on motorcycles and everything I've learned has been through trial and error. I'm here to hopefully learn a thing or two and ask a bunch of questions. Figured out how to get AC, new water pump, intake, radiator, electric fans, etc installed but I am completely lost when it comes to suspension... Finally got some electrical issues buttoned up the other day, only for my already shot suspension to get much worse. It has always felt pretty bad, but as of the other day, it now has a fair bit of negative camber on the drivers side wheel. Also, the car pulls toward any pothole or dip in the road, if you turn the wheel, it will continue to turn that direction even if you let go of the wheel, etc.

It's been tough to work on it as I work a 9-5, don't have a garage, and live in a busy neighborhood with neighbors who complain at any amount of noise. Luckily the in-laws live in a fairly rural area 30 minutes down the road but Im pretty weary to try to drive it down there to get it on jackstands in its current condition.

I bought a suspension rebuild kit to hopefully take care of the glaring problems... but today I noticed something odd when looking from the engine bay. There is an adjustable rod connecting the engine where the drivers side engine mount is at, down to what might be the K member. The mount at the engine is snapped in half, but I haven't been able to get a good look at where its connecting down at the bottom. Every picture I've found online doesnt seem to reflect this part unless I'm crazy. I cant figure out if its necessary or something completely unrelated. Any help would be appreciated.

Also, heres a photo dump of the car when it was last sold in Florida before it was shipped over here.

Used 1973 Dodge Challenger 440 V8 For Sale ($35,000) | Muscle Cars for Sale Inc. Stock #2187

Used 1973 Dodge Challenger 440 V8 Stock # 2187 in Fort Myers, FL at Muscle Cars for Sale Inc., FL's premier pre-owned luxury car dealership. Come test drive a Dodge today!

www.musclecarsforsaleinc.com

Thanks!

Kuruton

 

[Mopar Nut]

 

[DetMatt1]

Welcome to the site from the Motor City!
That was a poor attempt to strap down the side of the engine that wants to lift up under torque. If you open the hood, with your foot firmly on the brakes and the trans in drive, slowly increase the rpm while looking at the top of the air cleaner. If you see that side of the engine lifting more than a little it’s safe to say that the driver‘s side rubber mount is shot and needs replacement. That being said I have relatively new rubber mounts on my Challenger and they are garbage even though they aren’t broken because it’s hard to find well made parts these days… I just added 3 or 4 links of 3/8” chain between the upper and lower engine mount bolts on the front side with no slack at all for lack of wanting to completely change the mounts out at the time.
As for your suspension rebuild, that’s definitely something your neighbors are not going to want to hear you curse over for several days while you try to do it outside their windows. Put yourself in a safe environment where you can take your time and do it right.

 

[Katfish]

That's a Schumacher torque strap, really surprised that broke there. He was known to make some great parts, I have that same part. Unfortunately he's no longer making parts. I'd replace the motor mount and find another bracket and keep using what you have. You can see he updated the bracket shape that failed in the link.
It's almost straight, compared to the complex bends you have now.

'66-72 B-Body, '70-74 E-Body, '67+ A-Body Torque Strap

https://postimg.cc/w3JQSCN1][/url]

 

[Kuruton]

Welcome to the site from the Motor City!
That was a poor attempt to strap down the side of the engine that wants to lift up under torque. If you open the hood, with your foot firmly on the brakes and the trans in drive, slowly increase the rpm while looking at the top of the air cleaner. If you see that side of the engine lifting more than a little it’s safe to say that the driver‘s side rubber mount is shot and needs replacement. That being said I have relatively new rubber mounts on my Challenger and they are garbage even though they aren’t broken because it’s hard to find well made parts these days… I just added 3 or 4 links of 3/8” chain between the upper and lower engine mount bolts on the front side with no slack at all for lack of wanting to completely change the mounts out at the time.
As for your suspension rebuild, that’s definitely something your neighbors are not going to want to hear you curse over for several days while you try to do it outside their windows. Put yourself in a safe environment where you can take your time and do it right.

That's a Schumacher torque strap, really surprised that broke there. He was known to make some great parts, I have that same part. Unfortunately he's no longer making parts. I'd replace the motor mount and find another bracket and keep using what you have. You can see he updated the bracket shape that failed in the link.
It's almost straight, compared to the complex bends you have now.

'66-72 B-Body, '70-74 E-Body, '67+ A-Body Torque Strap

https://postimg.cc/w3JQSCN1][/url]

You guys are awesome. I woulda have been googling forever if you didn't come along. I actually had to get a thinner intake filter because the torque of the engine leaning to the side had causes it to keep bumping the underside of the hood, so that makes a lot of sense. I am going to order the replacement that Katfish linked here. keep working on the suspension and then work towards replacing motor mounts.

Tons of things I've wondered about the past few months that I'm going to have to come back and ask. So glad to have finally joined up. Its super tough finding answers over here on most anything mechanical, much less old American cars.

Dematt, I actually had to schedule a time this weekend with the guy who lives next to my parking lot so I can bust out the angle grinder to make some room for my new alternator this coming weekend. Progress is slow, but I've got time haha. Hoping to move once I can find a place with a bit more space.

Again, I appreciate the help. Thanks a ton.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Welcome to FEBO.

 

[Challenger RTA]

440 swap. I would start with . check to see if the correct torsion bars installed. 780 and 781. Check all steering and suspension components to be in spec. Then get it aligned for the left side of the road,in the US we drive on the right side of the road. NO wait I mean the middle to avoid the pot holes. This will help if you don't have it. Select your year. Service Manuals – MyMopar
And Service Manuals, Parts Catalogs & How-To Guides

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Welcome to the site .
You need to check all of the steering components for condition , replace what is nessisary & adjust the alignment .

 

[Xcudame]

Welcome to FEBO from the desert! I've had good luck with these motor mounts from 440 Source.
OEM Spec Engine Mount - 66-72B 66-73C 70-74E
Also, 440 Source sells this torque strap.
Factory Style Heavy Duty Torque Strap Cable

As others have stated, you need to make sure all of your steering components are in good working order. Replacing all the bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends will definitely help!

 

[1972 AAR Cuda]

Welcome to the site!
I also have the Schumacher torque strap on my 440, (72 Barracuda) but I havent had any issues. I would probably disassemble the pieces and weld them back together (adding some additional gussets if possible) and then use it.
I found the Schumacher website- you might contact them to see what they can do for you.

There are also some after market mounts that will limit engine movement you might consider: (poly-loc mount set)

Poly-Loc Mount Set


Not sure about the Schumacher products going out of business, but here is the website:

Engine swap solutions for your classic Dodge, Chrysler, Plymouth

'66-72 B-Body, '70-74 E-Body, '67+ A-Body Torque Strap

 

[Chryco Psycho]

I deally you want to max the caster usually around 3* , 1/2 * neg camber & 1/16" of toe in for best results .

 

[moparleo]

They were purchased by Chris Field , owner of Motech Performance in Murietta ,Ca.
MOTECH Performance

 

[Adam]

Control Arm Stiffening plates

Suspension & Chassis

Mancini has a lot of suspension stuff. If you find you don’t have the correct torsion bars I would highly recommend upgrading to something around an inch in diameter, and adding the stiffening plates listed above; since you are going go have to disassemble everything in your suspension rebuild anyway. Also, do one side at a time to avoid mixing caliper brackets and other parts.

 

[Xcudame]

I concur with Adam, bigger torsion bars are a must unless it's a drag only car. Also, while your taking everything apart, Firm Feel makes some good sway bars. Is it difficult to get parts delivered from the USA to Japan?

 

[Kuruton]

Thanks for all the advice here guys. My hometown is actually right near Murrieta so I was able to ask my dad to go over to Schumacher/Motech and pick up my order. Not sure if hes had the chance yet but I'll at least be able to get that new torque strap in when it arrives. For the other components, thus far I have a kit containing upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, control arm bushings and strut rod bushings. While I got it up on jack stands this weekend, I'll have a look at the torsion bar and order a larger one if its undersized.

I'm actually on a U.S. military base in Japan so I have a U.S. address I can use for most stuff. Although a lot of shops outside the major ones wont ship to APO (military) addresses so I end up stuck using forwarders or bribing family to help out haha.

Any other recommendations for parts I should be looking to replace on top of new mounts and adding stiffening plates?

 

[moparleo]

Make sure to download the free service manual.
I Have links to many Mopar related sites based on the different mechanical systems you are working on.
Don't be shy to ask for info that you can't find in the Factory Service Manuals.

 

[1972 AAR Cuda]

Make sure to download the free service manual.
I Have links to many Mopar related sites based on the different mechanical systems you are working on.
Don't be shy to ask for info that you can't find in the Factory Service Manuals.

I agree with Moparleo, I know Many here have dealt with building and modifying many different Mopar vehicles so ask as many questions as you need to. There are many knowledgeable / experienced people on this site that can help.

 

[moparlee]

Welcome to the site from Michigan!
As you have already found out, lot's of excellent knowledge here and guys more than willing to help out.

 

[Rapidfire]

Welcome to the forum from Nebraska. Nice to have you with us.

 

[fasjac]

Welcome from Arkansas!