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Engine Temp Incresing

ctaarman

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1. Not to be insulting, but are you sure the thermostat is installed in the correct direction? Don't assume the old one was installed correctly.
2. Do you have a fan clutch? Is it working properly? Should firm up solid with higher temps. If it slips you won't get the air you need.
3. Some engines trap air when you refill them. I didn't see you mention your engine size. Some guys burp the cooling system by jacking up the car a bit at the front and running on idle to force any trapped air out of the system.
4. What is your engine timing? Either way retarded or way advanced can impact temp. Way advanced and cranking on start is usually difficult and pinging when you get into it. Retarded not so obvious except for lower performance. Easy to check with timing light.
5. As @OneofFew said, sometimes a higher temp thermostat is better at slowing down the radiator flow, thus providing more time for cooling the hot coolant. I would do this last.
6. Go to counseling - this problem may drive you nuts.
 

moparleo

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What I see in the picture of post #24 is that the belts are not routed properly.
The problem is with the water pump pulley.
The alternator and a/c compressor have dual groove pullies because when the a/c clutch is engaged it puts a large load on the belt and it will slip, so it needs 2 of them. They are driven directly off of the crank shaft pulley.
The water pump and p/s are driven off of the crankshaft on a separate pulley groove.
Your water pump pulley is too deep and that is why it rubbed on the water pump.
Also it looks like a spacer and not a clutch for the fan.
Now the water pump and the fan for a/c was different than the non a/c pump and fan clutch and blade. When you start mixing up parts you get mixed results. Always try to duplicate the factory set up. Chrysler spent $$$ designing and testing their cooling systems to be reliable and functional. Remember they had to warranty their cars ...
 

chargerdon

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What is the temp once warmed up sitting still ? Is it ok then or also too hot. Another problem i have heard about is with some new hoses they collapse ...i think an OEM bottom hose has a spring in it to prevent collapsing.
 

71droptop

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I've had similar problem. Old time mechanic said put a piece of loose leaf in front of radiator. See if fan pulls it tight to the rad.
Clutch fans can be finiky.
 

Old Mopar

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Someone else had a similar heating/cooling issue, and if I remember right, he went to a 195 degree thermostat and his problems went away.

heating/cooling issue, and if I remember right, he went to a 195 degree thermostat and his problems went away.
195 t stat. water pump may be defective, check the rad core with the temp gun
for your locale 75% water 25% coolant with a bottle of conditioner
too lean??
 

heminut

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If the water entering the engine is in fact 200* your radiator is not cooling. Either not enough airflow or the radiator is shot.
You can't go by that to determine if the radiator is in fact working efficiently. You have to look at the temperature drop from when the coolant enters the radiator to when it exits. In his case, he was getting a 45 degree temprature drop, which indicates his radiator is doing exactly what it's supposed to be doing, dropping his coolant temperature 45 degrees!
 

Titan1969

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as Ronbo7 said , do you have a fan shroud?
It makes a big difference as it forces 100% of rad surface to have air drawn through it = max cooling.
360 is not a big motor and should have no issue cooling in hot weather of CA.
I have '73 Cuda in SoCal and drove around last few weeks, up and down PCH, stop go traffic, I was deifently hotter than the car .
The temp gauge does climb to about 3/4 in hotter days but once I move a little it drops right back down to below middle of gauge.
I run 180 Thermostat, stock fan (not clutch), stock rad, no water wetter, just 50/50 coolant/water.
:cool:
 

Dodgeboy

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Waterpump to crank ratio isn't 1:1, Its slightly off, something like 1.35:1, and its different between non a/c & a/c, samething for the amount of blades the waterpump has, 6 or 8. Not only does the water need to be pumped thru the engine, but don't forget that it needs to spend time in the rad to cool off. This is why switching to a higher thermostat works. I went thru all this years ago, figured it out and then forgot 1/2 of it. Glad it was just a bad thermostat (just did a quick read of all the posts).
 

Dons R/T

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The alternator and a/c compressor have dual groove pullies because when the a/c clutch is engaged it puts a large load on the belt and it will slip, so it needs 2 of them.
I recently had cooling problems with my 383. Turns out my radiator cap crapped out. Replaced it with a 16#. Fan clutch also crapped out so replaced that too. Also, replaced my 180 thermostat with a 195. Running cool for now. Summer will be the true test. This is the way my belts are installed. Moparleo, are you saying it is better to run a second belt exactly as the one I have on the ac compressor now? Thanks.

20230117_144332.jpg
 

Dons R/T

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What I see in the picture of post #24 is that the belts are not routed properly.
The problem is with the water pump pulley.
The alternator and a/c compressor have dual groove pullies because when the a/c clutch is engaged it puts a large load on the belt and it will slip, so it needs 2 of them. They are driven directly off of the crank shaft pulley.
The water pump and p/s are driven off of the crankshaft on a separate pulley groove.
Your water pump pulley is too deep and that is why it rubbed on the water pump.
Also it looks like a spacer and not a clutch for the fan.

Now the water pump and the fan for a/c was different than the non a/c pump and fan clutch and blade. When you start mixing up parts you get mixed results. Always try to duplicate the factory set up. Chrysler spent $$$ designing and testing their cooling systems to be reliable and functional. Remember they had to warranty their cars ...
Does my belt setup look correct? Should I run a second belt in the same configuration as the one already on the compressor? Thanks much for the advice.
 

Dodgeboy

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I forget about the LA's but the B & RB's ran (4 groove crank pully) 2 belts from crank-alt-a/c, 1 belt from crank to ps, and 1 belt from crank to idler pully to waterpump. If I were you I'd run a second belt on your ac just incase that belt is slipping, after all you have belt grooves for a extra belt
 
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