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The red on red 70 Cuda project!

wayne

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I reached out to Bill @ BMCuda and he has been a huge help and I should be getting some parts from him this week to address the heater box and wipers.

Until then I took the hood of in preparation for pulling the motor and have been working on the underside of the hood. The plan is to paint the engine bay and the underside of the hood. The hood had black paint over the factory red. It was a mess and took a lot of time to strip the black off. Used laquer thinner with rags and then scotch brite pads
Now that is done I am going to start sanding the rusty areas and figure out the best way to prep those areas before priming. Blasting is out of the question. So we'll see what I end up doing. Not entirely sure yet.
Here are a few pictures of the hood. You can see in the first picture what I started with and where I ended up at now.

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aussiemark

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That is great prep work I think it was wise not to sand blast it may have caused warping and the sand would go into the frame and you would never get it all out.
 

340challconvert

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The change in adding crumple zones happened late in the 70 model year; publications I found shows late March into April 1970 with differences in introduction between Cuda's and Challengers. Some show a later date to May or June. The factory just used up the non crumple hoods until the newer ones were filtered into the manufacturing process.
Either way, the change was due to Federal legislation that made the crumple zones mandatory starting in January 1970.
The earlier non-crumple zone hoods used a smaller 5/16" bolt, with later crumple zone hoods using a 3/8 bolt. The hoods did show up toward the end of the 1970 model year run.

I found this out when I replaced a flat hood on an early 70 Challenger with a new (at the time) RT hood. The bolts needed were larger then from my flat hood. I also found this on my former 71 Challenger vert when I added an RT hood from a 70 model, again back in the day.
The hood hinges also changed with a larger top hinge area where they bolted to the hood.
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wayne

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Very interesting info. My scheduled build date was Feb 16 FYI.

Are the crumple zones at the arrow locations I marked up?

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340challconvert

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Yes, those are the crumple zones
Here is a pic of an early Challenger hood without them: (courtesy of another forum member) My Challenger was an early October build, hence no zones.
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wayne

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I finally finished prepping the hood. Sanded it down with 250 grit by hand. The plan is to shoot some primer later this week.

I also got all my parts from Bill @ BMCuda.com He was really helpfull. New wiper motor, blower motor, blower wheel and blower plate and 3 speed arm. I also ordered a gasket set from Detroit Muscle Technologies and that should be here tomorrow. I plan to start putting the heater box back together.

Next will be to get the fenders off so I can focus on the engine bay.
 

Adam

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Skyco 1 gal. Ospho Surface Prep - Ace Hardware

Rust can be converted to an inert state with phosphoric acid. This stuff is great and available at many places. It gets diluted and a gallon is more than enough to do a whole car. However, it does leave a sticky residue. The directions say it can be painted over, but I like to rinse it off. If you use straight water you will get a little flash rush as it dries so I use water with a small amount of ospho in it , maybe 5-10% then wipe it or blow it dry with an air hose.
 

wayne

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Thanks for the tip Adam. After looking at the ingredients of the Eastwood product I bought....its exactly what you describe. Not sure of the ratio obviously as that is highly classified I'm sure! lol.

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wayne

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Phase 1 of the paint project was to fix the poor bodywork on the door and fender where the paint lifted and was rattle caned. I just couldn’t stand looking at that area. Phase 2 will be the engine bay. i finally got the bodywork straightened out and block sanded. Then on Sunday my friend Trent came over to lay down some color for me. I am very happy with how it came out. I think it will blend in perfectly with the theme of the car.

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wayne

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We just got back from a much needed weeks vacation yesterday. Got out on the garage for a bit today. I’m really running out of room in the garage. I ended up taking the fenders off a moving them to the basement. Thankfully no scratches! Took off the radiator support and will be ready to prep in the engine bay.

Next I need to get the steering box out.

My goal is to primer it next weekend. We’ll see.

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340challconvert

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Skyco 1 gal. Ospho Surface Prep - Ace Hardware

Rust can be converted to an inert state with phosphoric acid. This stuff is great and available at many places. It gets diluted and a gallon is more than enough to do a whole car. However, it does leave a sticky residue. The directions say it can be painted over, but I like to rinse it off. If you use straight water you will get a little flash rush as it dries so I use water with a small amount of ospho in it , maybe 5-10% then wipe it or blow it dry with an air hose.
Adam, glad you made the point about Ospho. :thumbsup:

Great stuff and works great. My mechanic brother told me about the stuff years ago. I bought the powder form cheap and mixed it myself.
 

wayne

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Got the steering box out today. Trying to get the drag link free from the pitman arm was less than fun on this car lol. Spent some time cleaning up the k frame. My question is... I have never seen a k frame this color. It has an OE looking stamp on it. I’ve always seen them painted black. Has anyone seen one this color? I can’t believe it’s not original but you never know!

Thanks!

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wayne

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Been jamming on the cuda this week getting the engine bay prepped. Had a bunch of small parts media blasted. They are on the rack. Made a quick spraying rack for about $15. The wifey was wondering where her aluminum foil went. :D Got it primed today. I’m pumped to reach this big milestone! I feel like the not so fun work is behind me now. Color next and soon hopefully!

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