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The red on red 70 Cuda project!

wayne

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I was able to finish up the fuel feed and return. Added a post pump filter and s fuel shutoff valve. I stopped the lines on the rail under the alternator. I just have to route from there up to the regulator which I needed an adapter for.

Once I started looking at the slip yoke for the GV unit, which has 1350 i joints, I just decided to have a driveshaft made with a 1350 in the back. Dr diff had one so now I have the same joint front and back that I should never have to worry about. Picked up the driveshaft from dynocomp as they are down the road from me. Great people and beautiful work. Went with the aluminum shaft. Was able to get that in with the new yoke.

Thank God my old 1/2” impact got the pinion nut off....it took about a minute before it finally budged!

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wayne

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I recently finished up the lines to the carb. Think I will make a support bracket for the FPR though. Headers are on now. Went with TTI 1 7/8. They fit nice. Followed the instructions and no issues. Picked up the summit drop base air cleaner. Had to dimple it in two spots to clear the carb and now it fits nicely.

Just trying to keep moving consistently...day by day.

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moparlee

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Were you not able to use studs for the headers? Don't know about aluminum heads, but on the factory CI heads the end tapped holes go into the water jacket and need thread sealant.
 

wayne

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Were you not able to use studs for the headers? Don't know about aluminum heads, but on the factory CI heads the end tapped holes go into the water jacket and need thread sealant.

I didn’t even try using studs. Doubt if there is room. These Indy heads outer bolts aren’t blind so no sealant necessary. Glad to move on from those.

I bought these Proform dual washer locking bolts from Mancini. They have good reviews and is a clever design. We’ll see how they work at keeping exhaust leaks away!
 

wayne

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Well I must admit things are taking longer than I expected . A couple months ago I was really hoping to fire her up around Christmas and before winter really gets kicking here in MI. It hasn't happened yet...honestly it doesn't bother me as I don't have any pressure to get it done by a certain time and I don't wan't to rush. On the other hand...our weather here has been very mild. Running my little 30,000 btu propane heater just a few minutes makes it comfortable to me to work. When things start dipping below freezing outside....thats another story.

So the latest. All the mechanical projects are pretty much done for now. A few days ago I made some adapters for my fan shroud as it wasn't matching up with my Griffin radiator. The radiator fit the car fine at least.

Switching gears now (no not literally yet) and focussing on electrical. Finished the wiring for the pump at the back of the car. Had to take some of the interior out to route the pump power wire along the factory harness and drivers side rocker. Mounted the fuel pump relay along with the gear vendors control box at the drivers side kick panel. Made a simple bracket for both. Keeping them out of site and out of the engine bay as I want the engine bay as clean as I can make it.

Next I need to route the GearVendors wiring, install the factory harnesses in the engine bay, wire up the new ignition components....

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wayne

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I’ve made a lot of progress with the electrical. Not much to show there picture wise though. I need to hook up the coil and then I will install the battery and check for 12v sources under the dash to finish the electrical. Plan to do that this weekend.

This past weekend I took a brake from wiring to finish installing the TTI exhaust. The exhaust was closer to the tank and shock support on the driver side than I expected. Was surprised it was that high over the axle...,I didn’t expect that. Needless to say I had to reroute my lines a little. Needed a 90 fitting instead of a 45 out of the tank. Going to install that tonight and hop that takes care of it. I ended up getting all the pipes on and the tips aligned. I’m pretty happy with it. Hopefully it doesn’t look different once it’s on the ground. Had plenty of clearance with the gear vendors.

When I was done with it on Sunday my back was feeling it! Doing this on my back wasn’t the most memorable time I’ve had turning a wrench!

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wayne

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Had a good week and found some time out in the garage! I was able to finish wiring my ignition, fuel pump and overdrive. Also installed the horns. Ran a tap through the bracket and fender to make sure I had a good ground. Also installed some Firecore wires. The 45 degree boots were perfect for the headers and angle plug heads

Put the battery in the car for the first time since last summer... man was I excited yet a little nervous! Was awesome to see the green dash light up again! First thing I tried was the horn, it worked . Next checked the msd box, yep it had its red light . Next tested the pump to to see it would come on. Yep . no gas in the tank yet so I just wanted to make sure it came on.

After that went well figured I would test the clutch switch. Car in neutral and tried to start the car without pressing the clutch...nope wouldn’t turn over good. Pressed the clutch in and she turned right over!

ok knew the car had some light/ electrical issues. Tried the turn signals...nope . Headlights...nope. Parking lights yep . Brake lights ... only the driver side.

Today went to the auto parts store and bought new flashers for the turn signals and hazards. Hopefully it’s that simple. Will have a new floor headlight dimmer switch today and will try those. Hopefully it’s that simple. Haven’t done any diagnostics yet.

So my game plan is to pick up some coolant and premium gas and put those in this weekend and check for leaks.

So the real question is when do I try and start it.. well the the car has scheduled production build date of February 16. I think that would be really kool! So why not I have a few things to sort out and double check till then!

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wayne

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An BIG update!

First I bought new flashers and they fixed the turn signals and the hazards work. The headlights work. All that needed was to have the battery cables tightened on the battery. I had them just hand pressed on.

So on Sunday the 16..she fired right up!. No issues at all. She sounds real good. Fuel pressure stabilized and I was able to get that set. Checked voltage on the battery and the alternator is charging like it should. The oil pressure gauge is at the 3/4 mark. Water temp gauge is working and moved up once the motor warmed up. Tach isn't working. I need to check the wires on the back of the tach. Not a lot of room there. We'll see.

Made a short video this week. I almost can't believe this car is running again. Its been a ton of work. I have a lot of appreciation for guys that do a complete restoration and the time that would take.

Enjoy the video.
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wayne

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After my initial test drive the deck lid actually was rattling because the weather stripping was so compressed. Figured it was a good time to replace it.

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wayne

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thanks i appreaciate it!

I have had some extra time on my hands waiting for some parts to come in. Been tweaking my air cleaner set up and finally have one I am real happy with. Made another video about it. Nothing earth shattering here. hopefully more entertaining.

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wayne

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My fuel pump sending unit came back from being upgraded with a 3/8" return. I was pleased with his work. This should take care of my high fuel pressure issues. I installed that with a Holley hydra Mat to help with not running out of fuel for the electric pump.

I ended up needing to replace my reverse switch as it was leaking and the thermostat gasket.

Good news now is my gauges are are on their way back from Redline. I will get them next week....then I will be ready for another test drive. I'm hoping this one goes alot smoother after addressing everything I found.

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wayne

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Quick update.... my fuel pressure is stabilized and the updated sending unit fixed it. More on that later.

My dome light never worked...it was just missing it’s bulb. I like simple ones! Picked up an LED to brighten things up. I popped the cover off and saw they had painted the inside of the lens cover red! Of course I had to give it a try ...remember this car has been off the road since 76. I’m digging it for now.....yeah it’s staying!

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wayne

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My gauges came back from Redline and got them back in the car. Getting them back in took some patience. Wiring harness isn't long enough to make all the connections while the cluster is laying on the column. They work great and with the new led's they are lit up nice now. Its been raining the last few days so fired it up a few times and everything is working well. I had to take the MSD tach adpater off. Its not need anymore and it was causing the new tach to read high. After I removed it its reading fine now. It was great dealing with Shannon @ Redline. Real impressive work. These look incredible.

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wayne

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I was able to wrap up a couple little projects and felt like it was as good a time as ever to take her on her first maiden voyage! Things went pretty well. No leaks, nothing fell off lol, didn't have to get towed back.... but I do have a few things I am going to address this week. I had put new collector gaskets in the headers as I had a exhaust leak there...well it appears they are also leaking at the head. It sounds pretty bad. Alternator was acting up. I don't think it has been working right as I have checked it and the battery and volts stay at 12.2 -12.6. On the way back from my test drive the volt gauge pegged itself for a couple minutes which had me pretty nervous. I am going to pull that off today and take it up to a little local shop I got it from.

But the main issue I have to deal with is a drivetrain vibration. I knew I would have to do something with adding the gear vendors unit. It starts around 3k rpm. Its not speed dependent. No vibration in neutral free revving the motor. The motor dynoed fine. I just picked up a good angle finder. I didn't check my original trans angle as I didn't plan on this modification at the time so I am not sure what the original angle was. But my angle now is 2.6 down. Which seems off from what normal is... closer to 4 deg. down from what I've heard. My driveshaft is shorter obviously. My pinion stock was 2 deg. pointing down. I have tried 3 & 2 deg. shims to rotate the pinion up and the 2 deg. was slightly better than the 3. I ordered 1 deg. shims I will try next. Before I do that I am going to spin the driveshaft 180 and re set it in the yoke. Easy thing to try. Part of me thinks I will have to modify the trans agle....which is not an easy thing to do. There really isn't much room on the trans crossmember to modify it so the trans can sit lower. Would have to cut it and and reweld it or just make a new one. Either option I am not thrilled with. But one thing at a time.

Made a little video of its first voyage

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rbbruno3

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Thanks for the ride Wayne. Maybe next time we can leave a little rubber on the road . LOL JK :thumbsup:
 
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