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Just Bought a 70 cuda need advice?

moparmofo

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Hey guys i just sold my 68 Charger and decided to go with an E body. Ive always had B Bodies so im not to familiar wit the E's
I ended up buying a 70 Cuda 340 automatic this is the first time ive had a small block and in automatic so i was thinking about putting a six pack on it, if i did that would i have to change the hood? and does anyone have pics of there 340 in the engine compartment?
the car will be here on Friday coming from iowa
 

74 challenger

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Just did the same thing last year,sold my 69rt charger 440 6pak and bought a challenger. LOTS of great guys here that helped me threw alot of problems with the car. I did once put a auto behind the 6pak but i didnt care for how in ran so went back to the 4 speed. Good luck and welcome to the site. Hope you put up some pics when the car get to you.
 

ramenth

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The hood may have the proper clearance, not sure. But if you're going to go with the six pack set up why not let it breath and put an AAR hood on it?

Welcome aboard, by the way.
 

rbbruno3

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My friend has a 73 Challenger 340 with a 6pack w/6 pack air cleaner and original r/t hood. fits fine, not a cuda but.....no problems:headbang:
 

moparleo

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Whooooaaa ! Slow down and enjoy the feeling of your first E-body experience. Before making changes why not get to know her first. Wash her and polish her and treat her to some maintenance. See how she drives. Take her out for the weekend and just enjoy her. Like finding a new love and just wanting to find out what she likes. You can change her later. Call us after a week or so and tell us what she is like. Oh and get some nice pictures of her.
 
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CudaKeith

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I picked up a '73 with a 440 six pack in it, it was originally a 340 car. The hood closes fine, but I'm looking to go with a shaker set up. Let's see some pics of that beast.
 

moparmofo

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i bought the car sight un seen, Ive never done that before but i trust the guy and the pics and the video looked great. Its originally EB5 blue but it all looks good to me

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Rare 71

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1971 cuda question ? Anybody out there know were to get body side moldings for my cuda ? A V5X option on tag. Any thing would be helpful . Thanks
 

ragtopdodge

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@Rare_71: I wouldn't put those side moulding things on.

Ugly.



Congrats on the car. I wouldn't make an AAR clone out of it.

Six-packs are cool, but kinda $$$ (~$3k) for just eye candy when you pop the hood. You'll get more performance with just a Holley/Edelbrock carb and a Performer RPM Air-Gap.

If I were you, the car would be more fun if say, you put an A518 four-speed OD (won't require a bellhousing change w/the 340 motor) automatic and get some like, 4.10 gears in the rear. You'll be able to have your cake and eat it too with fun launches and decent fuel economy. Some TTI or Doug's headers (expensive, but they will fit right) would be good too for performance and it'll sound meaner. Then look into some suspension upgrades, like sway bars, more caster upper ball joints, and maybe a firm-feel steering box if you have PS now.
 
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moparmofo

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I definitely dont wanna make it a clone i jus have everything for a sic pack minus the carbs thats about 1200.
but i think im just gonna drive it for a bit before i do anything. im always so eager to tear em down and start over usually back to stock this one will be a bit different
i will have the car tomorrow lets hope its not being held together with bondo
 

moparleo

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For anybody who tells you to just put a A-518 into your e-body of any year or model of e-body obviously has never done one himself. Will not fit the tunnel or clear the trans/torsion bar mount without surgery. Please do not recommend to do things that you don't even know about.
 

andrewipp426

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i have a big bock auto used a AAR hood (AAR Quality Fiberglass) painted body color I bought a fiberglass carburetor base (I am using a 4bbl Avanti carb) from Steve Matthews, he makes bases for all type of carbs & air cleaners 14" round or the oval six pack set up product is good, needs a little filler, sanding & painting
http://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com hood
http://www.hybrid-fiberglass-solutions.com filter base

good luck
 

ragtopdodge

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For anybody who tells you to just put a A-518 into your e-body of any year or model of e-body obviously has never done one himself. Will not fit the tunnel or clear the trans/torsion bar mount without surgery. Please do not recommend to do things that you don't even know about.

Have you done it? Many folks done it with only some minor cutting on the tranny tailhousing. NOT ON THE CAR!
 

moparleo

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Overdrive

FYI
Well, we can’t say we weren’t warned. As the Mopar catalog stated, a fairly “major” chunk of the driveshaft tunnel had to be “modified” before the tailshaft housing would clear the body. About 1.5 inches from each side of the crossmember housing was shaved off, but even more challenging was fabricating a new crossmember to hold the overdrive unit securely in place. Rather than creating a new piece from scratch, Art Carr’s technicians used the original crossmember end pieces and fabricated a center section designed to match up with the A518’s lower rear mount. Finally, the A518’s increased length required cutting the driveshaft down from 51.5 inches to 48 inches.



On the plus side, the original starter, tranny cooler lines and throttle linkage worked with the new transmission. So while not exactly a “bolt-in” upgrade, getting the A518 to physically fit into an old B-body (or E-body) Mopar can be done, and much of the original hardware will bolt directly to the new unit.
But getting it to fit was only half the battle. Now we had to figure out how to make the GTX shift into a gear it was never meant to have. As with the physical installation, it was almost as if Chrysler planned on people doing this conversion. First, the A518 continues to use only six shifter-selector positions rather than having the “OD” position that GM and Ford use. This means that with a column-shift musclecar, the shift linkage will completely bolt up.
The GTX’s floor shift, however, required some additional custom fabrication to get the shifter to operate the A518. Once bolted up, the linkage banged into an unused ear on the tranny’s case, so it was ground off, giving the linkage plenty of clearance to operate smoothly from Park to First gear.
While Chrysler employs a number of sensors, switches and engine controllers to operate its overdrive transmissions, all you really need is one dash/console-mounted switch to energize the overdrive solenoid. When switched on, the solenoid closes and the tranny will immediately shift into overdrive whenever it’s in Third gear. Once in overdrive, the transmission will not come out until the solenoid is switched open again, or vehicle speed is slow enough to cause a First gear downshift (less than 5 mph), or the vehicle is floored at a speed low enough to catch First gear. JVX and Mopar Performance are working on a system that uses engine vacuum to operate the solenoid. Until that’s available, just keep the switch off during stop-and-go driving.
Of course, the real benefits of overdrive can’t be experienced in the city anyway. It takes a cross-country road trip like Power Tour to fully appreciate the overdrive tranny. Since that’s still a few months away, we ran some numbers to give you an idea of what highway travel is like in this “old” musclecar. With the GTX’s 3.55 gears and 27-inch-tall rear tires, it used to turn 2654 rpm at 60 mph. With the A518’s 0.69 overdrive, that number drops to 1832! Now that’s assuming a factory stall torque converter, which we did not use. But even with an additional 200-rpm worth of converter slippage, that still figures out to around 2032.
Here’s another way to look at it: If we installed a set of 4.56 gears, the car would get all the increased benefits of monster low-speed launches and turn only 2603 rpm at 60 mph with a factory stall converter. That’s still less rpm than it used to turn at the same speed with 3.55s. Finally, let’s not forget about the positive effects on gas mileage and engine life. If you figure a 30-percent across-the-board decrease in highway rpm, engine wear and noise, plus the increased gas mileage that goes with it, you start to see why the benefits of overdrive can’t be overstated.

Before you start planning this summer’s family vacation in your overdrive Hemi Charger, remember that this is not a project for the faint of heart—or wallet. The retail price for an A518 is around $1600 (not including the torque converter), and the JVX adapter kit adds another $495. That’s more than two grand, and you haven’t even started grinding metal or fabricating linkage pieces, which can cost in the neighborhood of $800, according to Art Carr. But if you’re willing to spend the time and money, this is a great way to give an old Mopar new shifts.



Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/howto/43323_mopar_overdrive_transmission_swap/#ixzz1t7O5Qudp
 

ragtopdodge

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