Long brakepedel travel

[rasmus westlin]

Hello,

i have abit of a problem that i cant solve, i bought 4-wheel disc kit from rightstuff (name of the brand) installed the kit and bought a brakebooster with willwood mastercylinder 1” Bore. I have bleed the system 10 times now but i still need to push down the pedle almost to the floor before it starts to brake.

The boster with willwood MC came pre-assembly so i can asume that the pushrod is the correct length. Has anyone here mounted this boster/mc kit on their E-body and got the same problem?

I upload some picture on what kit i bought.

all help is really appreciated!

 

[Challenger RTA]

As you said . " to the floor before it starts to brake" , and you have brakes and the pedal stays,doesn't go to floor.has some brakes? MY opinion,seems as if the problem is in the master cylinder. take master cyc of bench bleed to be sure. 1" sounds to small. check rod length while apart. It could have assembled wrong.

 

[rasmus westlin]

As you said . " to the floor before it starts to brake" , and you have brakes and the pedal stays,doesn't go to floor.has some brakes? MY opinion,seems as if the problem is in the master cylinder. take master cyc of bench bleed to be sure. 1" sounds to small. check rod length while apart. It could have assembled wrong.

The brake pedal is returning back and hangs abit lower then the clutch pedal, what i heard is ”normal” on mopars?

the bore size in the MC is the same as the MC witch came with the 4 wheel disc kit, i also emailed willwood and they said the bore was enough.

But iam thinking it is something wrong with the pushrod length, i was hoping not to take it of the car because i dont want to make a mess when everything is new paint. But maybe its the only way to solve the problem.. thanks

 

[Challenger RTA]

Brake pedal is returning back and hangs litter lower. some what but not much.Maybe 1/4". 1st picture under normal braking returns even with clutch. 2nd pic touched lightly with finger take minimal play and to get it to stay. If yours is lower you know the problem. Mine in is good condition. Had a problem clutch pedal sticking to floor. checked everything from clutch fork to pedal.finally took pedal caddle brock apart and cleaned lightly greased. worked perfect,even with a little wear. Hope this helps.

 

[rasmus westlin]

Brake pedal is returning back and hangs litter lower. some what but not much.Maybe 1/4". 1st picture under normal braking returns even with clutch. 2nd pic touched lightly with finger take minimal play and to get it to stay. If yours is lower you know the problem. Mine in is good condition. Had a problem clutch pedal sticking to floor. checked everything from clutch fork to pedal.finally took pedal caddle brock apart and cleaned lightly greased. worked perfect,even with a little wear. Hope this helps.

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I tought my pedal hanged to low before and then i adjusted it on the pushrod that comes out from the back of the booster, the pedal came up higher. But maybe then it was to short the other way in to the cylinder and that causes my problem now?

 

[Challenger RTA]

This is were you adjusted,were the rod eye bolt connects? That being said. I would check rod to master cylinder clearance.measure or with clay.

 

[rasmus westlin]

This is were you adjusted,were the rod eye bolt connects? That being said. I would check rod to master cylinder clearance.measure or with clay.

On my setup the linkages is outside the car and not inside as it is original. I turned 2 laps at the thing that comes out from the back of my boster. I have marked where i adjusted in this picture.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Ok.basically the same just a different place.I'm sure you thought all this through.When you or can you push on the rod,feel if it in contact with the piston of the master cylinder or is there play? There will be spring resistance. If not check clearance.measure or with clay. Next I would make up short return bleeder lines. it can be done on car. to me it seems like it,s in the master cylinder. I could be wrong. It generate the hydraulic force needed.This is a process of elimination.

 

[rasmus westlin]

Ok.basically the same just a different place.I'm sure you thought all this through.When you or can you push on the rod,feel if it in contact with the piston of the master cylinder or is there play? There will be spring resistance. If not check clearance.measure or with clay. Next I would make up short return bleeder lines. it can be done on car. to me it seems like it,s in the master cylinder. I could be wrong. It generate the hydraulic force needed.This is a process of elimination.

Its just a couple of millimeters play before i feel it contact with the piston in the master cylinder. Can it still be air in the master cylinder even when it dosnt come out any air from the calipers?

and how can i messure it when its in the car? Do i need to take of the master cylinder to messure it?

 

[Challenger RTA]

Unbolt master cylinder. measure depth and protrusion of parts.calculate difference.I see you have an adjustable proportioning valve. does you system a have reset.

 

[rasmus westlin]

Unbolt master cylinder. measure depth and protrusion of parts.calculate difference.I see you have an adjustable proportioning valve. does you system a have reset.

Okey, no it dosnt have any reset.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Adjustable proportioning valve index in any way,for setting pressure?

 

[rasmus westlin]

Adjustable proportioning valve index in any way,for setting pressure?

Yes you only change how much brake pressure it gonna be in the rear with it, less or more

 

[Challenger RTA]

Just more + or less- or in percentage? should be 30-40 percent to rear depending on weight.

 

[rasmus westlin]

Just more + or less- or in percentage? should be 30-40 percent to rear depending on weight.

It just says ”less brake” and that i Will have to try it until its good. But i dont know how it should be exactly.

 

[Challenger RTA]

I also had long peddle travel on my car. Bleed and bleed and bleed.then it dawned to me to reset the valve.never in the decades that I worked on cars I had to do it. but the whole system was new.

 

[Challenger RTA]

If you don't have a gauge to set it. I would fall back to the bleeder lines on the mater cylinder.that way you know it's good.

 

[Challenger RTA]

Also when you adjusted it on the pushrod that comes out from the back of the booster. I would say you took out all the slack,unless you run out of adjustment.

 

[rasmus westlin]

If you don't have a gauge to set it. I would fall back to the bleeder lines on the mater cylinder.that way you know it's good.

You mean that i should bench bleed the cylinder?

 

[rasmus westlin]

Also when you adjusted it on the pushrod that comes out from the back of the booster. I would say you took out all the slack,unless you run out of adjustment.

Yes it moved up my pedel, cant take it further out now because the linkage Will hit my torped then.