Nitrous Cam

[Gribb]

I've built a 340 stroker and i've decided to put a little fun button on it. Everyone I talk to says to change the cam to a "nitrous cam" any thoughts? I bored it out to a 416, making 510 hp.Single plane super vic intake with a nitrous outlet puck system.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

No one else has answered so ....
Firstly I have never used nitrous so I have limited experience , Why would a nitrous cam be different ?
I have designed a number of cams for superchargers with excellent results & like a blown engine you have more fuel & oxygen in the cylinder making more pressure but unlike a blown engine there is nothing forcing the air into the cylinder . most of the cams I have designed have reduced overlap or wider centerline to prevent blowing raw fuel into the exhaust so a nitrous engine should breath the same as a N/A engine so you need overlap to create exhaust scavenging & enhanced cylinder filling , long tube headers especially stepped headers help as well as good head porting , anything to enhance air flow through the engine more air in & out makes power .
So personally I would look for a good cam to work with the rpm you plan to operate the engine in lots of lift as lift is free HP , make sure you have a carb approc 2x the CFM of the CI so 800 CFM would be my choice & I use Proform Carbs for best bang for the $ & awesome performance & tenability .
I would contact the Cam companies & see what they suggest , I highly recommend Lunati cams as they are truly designed for max performance in Mopars & are not Chev copies ground on Mopar blanks .
I would like like to know why there is a difference in N0S applications if any so let me know what you find out please .

 

[moparleo]

Too much fun button on a bored out, thin wall 340 = new block. 360 blocks are dirt cheap, thick cylinder wall. Excellent for blown and NO2 applications. Keep us informed on your nitrous adventure.

 

[Challenger340]

First off... was the Engine designed for Nitrous useage initially when built ?
with things like 2618 Alloy Forged Pistons ?
and hone-fit with enough extra Piston to Wall clearance for the Nitrous ?
with
sufficient added Top Ring Endgap for Nitrous ?

Unless you are contemplating only the very smallest amount of Nitrous... like merely a 100-150 MAX hp shot ?
...... all of the above become factors to longevity so you don't fry the Engine in a shorter timeframe, including staying very low shots of Nitrous on Forged 4032 Alloy Forged Pistons(the most common Forged pistons in most Stroker Kits)

The Nitrous carries it's own oxygen released during combustion, but far more to it than just wicking up the Fuel, backing the Timing and adding a Cam ?

If you are just staying with a 100hp shot... ANY Cam is FINE !
But,
if you are planning higher shots above 150hp... and a "Nitrous" Cam to take full advantage on 110-112-114 lsa
check that;
* you have "2618" Alloy Forged Pistons
* Hone-fit at Nitrous clearance with a Torque-Plate
* Nitrous Top Ring End-gaps(extra .006"to .010")
* a dedicated "separate fuel system" for the Nitrous side only, with higher Octane Fuel to prevent detonation !

Note;
NO CAM can exceed the lifter it uses.... the problem nowadays is the Lifters available, especially with F.T. Hydraulics, no matter Lunati, Engle, CompCams, if the Lifter won't keep up... no EXTRA ramp speed in the world matters !
And seeing as how they ALL use the same Manu's Lifter(yes, even LUNATI), what's the point ?

The only Flat Tappet Cams that CAN take advantage of the .904" Mopar Diameters are the SOLID Flat Tappets.... and even those to do so... require extra valve-Spring Pressures and Rates to keep up with the faster ramps, dangerously close to killing lobes on street Engines even WITH Zinc in the Oil !

 

[moper]

I think it depends on the system level. Like was all mentioned above.
I haven't thought about it that much but I'm sure there are advantages to running a camshaft specifically for large doses of giggle juice. I'd also bet there are consequences for running one in a car that is not run mainly on the bottle. Unless you are drag racing this one a lot on the bottle I'd just run the cam you have, make sure the pistons and rings can take the abuse, the ignition is top of the line, and the fuel systems are seperate and good.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

If you are just staying with a 100hp shot... ANY Cam is FINE !

SO we agree
Obviously putting a 300 Hp Shot of NOS onto an engine designed for 250 hp total will be disasterous .
No info was giving about the amount planned to be used on the engine .

 

[Gribb]

cam

If you are just staying with a 100hp shot... ANY Cam is FINE !

SO we agree
Obviously putting a 300 Hp Shot of NOS onto an engine designed for 250 hp total will be disasterous .
No info was giving about the amount planned to be used on the engine .

After changing my intake I decided to change heads, edelbrock from Hughes engines with their big mouth cnc porting, 1.6 rockers, then cam, (roller). They custom ground one for what i wanted, which I'm only doing a 150 shot. When I first had the motor built I told them I was going to be using NOS so that should be covered as far as rigs , pistons, and rods. Then a new Holley ultra HP 850, it has I-beam rods, race tec pistons, I bought the intake and the guys at Nitrous Outlet recommended Shotties porting. Looks like he did a good job. Does anyone know his work? I didn't plan on all this but you know how it is when you start doing one thing it leads to some thing else. According to the guys at Hughes It should have around 620 hp before the button. Now I'm worried about hitting the button. thats alot of HP in a 340 before the NOS..... I should have built a 360 but I didn't plan on going this far with this thing. Am I missing anything, I don't want to have to do this again ha ha. Not on purpose anyways. Thanks for all the input.

 

[moper]

I'm not sure the result will be 20% gain, but it will definately like the larger ports. You may want to upgrade that carb too - it's still a little small given the rest of the upgrades. Aside from the rings - you should have the gap they set it to in your paperwork - you're fast approaching the limits of a factory block. Is this a race car or street car?

 

[Gribb]

I'm not sure the result will be 20% gain, but it will definately like the larger ports. You may want to upgrade that carb too - it's still a little small given the rest of the upgrades. Aside from the rings - you should have the gap they set it to in your paperwork - you're fast approaching the limits of a factory block. Is this a race car or street car?

It's going to mainly be a street car with little track on occasion. A few of my buddies are Chevy guys with some stout old school camaros. So I'm trying to keep Dodge in the lead. No one around my area does much with e bodies but me. And yes I'm afraid I'm pushing the limits of my block. I really don't want to go much bigger with the carb because it is a street car.

 

[Gribb]

It's going to mainly be a street car with little track on occasion. A few of my buddies are Chevy guys with some stout old school camaros. So I'm trying to keep Dodge in the lead. No one around my area does much with e bodies but me. And yes I'm afraid I'm pushing the limits of my block. I really don't want to go much bigger with the carb because it is a street car. It's kinda set up to be what I call pro street. Only mods are a four link with sub frame connectors. Mini tubbed with a partial roll bar. Everything else is just after market bolt on's. Seats, dash and cluster etc.

 

[moper]

Not sure what the 60' times are like - but with that suspension you should be doing fairly well as it sits...lol.

 

[moparleo]

I would sell the motor while it is still in one piece and take the money and start over making all of the changes given what you know now on either an aftermarket block or one of the millions of 360's in the bone yards. Like buying your next house, but fixing all the short comings of the old one that you found out when you lived in it a while.

 

[Gribb]

I would sell the motor while it is still in one piece and take the money and start over making all of the changes given what you know now on either an aftermarket block or one of the millions of 360's in the bone yards. Like buying your next house, but fixing all the short comings of the old one that you found out when you lived in it a while.

Anybody got a hemi they wanna trade:evil6:

 

[Gribb]

New problem.... pulled the valve covers off and one of the balls on the end of the pushrod had fell off. Why? What would cause this?

 

[Chryco Psycho]

A number of things , from weak springs , broken springs , valve sticking in a guide , rocker sticking on a shaft if it has been ovalled from over torqueing , collapsed lifter not staying pumped up , anything that will cause slack in the valve train allowing the valve train to become unloaded

 

[Gribb]

A number of things , from weak springs , broken springs , valve sticking in a guide , rocker sticking on a shaft if it has been ovalled from over torqueing , collapsed lifter not staying pumped up , anything that will cause slack in the valve train allowing the valve train to become unloaded

It was just built. Which I know doesn't mean anything but it probably didn't have 500 miles on it. New springs, lifters, everything. I'm putting new heads, intake, carb, and a roller can in it now. If anyone needs any new parts, I've got some for sale. Oh yea, 1.5 rockers also

 

[moper]

Normally broken valvetrain is harmonics. Those are caused by poor geometry, not enough spring pressure, or too-weak of a pushrod among other things.