pricing engine work

[ogre]

I just got my engine block back from the shop, a 1970 383 G series HP. The shop has a standard package that does the cleaning, magnaflux, line bore, and bore/hone also replaces cam bearings and soft plugs. that was $450.00

The Crankshaft well it was shot peened for $50.00 and then had the journals ground 10 on rods and mains. was $305.00

plus the cost of the bearings/plugs/ the pretax total was 869.00

So my question is that a decent price? I am thinking it is, so I am happy with it but curious. The engine will go into my 70 Challenger RT next spring. i still need to decide on a camshaft and pistons.

ogre

 

[moparleo]

Did you give them the pistons to fit in the individual bores and did you have the rotating assembly balanced ? Did they radius the crankshaft journals ? This will affect the type of bearings that you must use.
Reusing the stock heads or going to replacement heads ? This will affect the piston choice.

 

[Xcudame]

The prices you have listed seem reasonable to me, but you do need to think about what Moparleo has asked you. What is your end goal? Basic stock rebuild? Flame throwing drag car? For the street and pump gas, need to keep the compression ratio around 9.5:1 max for iron heads or 10.5:1 for aluminium heads. Racing gas is a whole nother ball game. For piston material there's really only two choices, either hypereutectic (Keith Black) or forged aluminum (several good brands). Forged pistons require more cylinder bore clearance, hince the piston to bore question. And balancing is a really good idea with aftermarket components regardless of your end goal.

You need to give us more information regarding your goals, but the machine work prices you have listed seems reasonable, but you really need pistons to measure before boring/honing the cylinders. Building an engine requires everything to be decided on before you start machining. If you already had the machine work done, you're very limited on what you can do now.

 

[moparleo]

Absolutely. Can you imagine building a house or a bridge without a plan ?
An old saying " Failing to plan is planning to fail." Guess who said that ?

 

[Xcudame]

Assuming the machine work is done, you're not too bad off, just really limited on options in my opinion. Keith Black 162 pistons, cast iron rings (i.e. no coating) are your only real choice as who knows what the cylinders are honed to finish wise. Get Clevite .010 under rod (CB-527P10) and main (MS876P10 full groove) bearings. Run a camshaft under .5" lift and you're golden which ever heads and rocker arms you decide on. Optional: toss on an aluminium intake (Edelbrock RPM) with a 650 to 750 cfm Carburator and enjoy!

 

[ogre]

Thanks everybody for the input. i should have specified, the build was just to restore the car back to original with a little plus. The 383 was spec'd at 335Hp and I was hoping to plus it to about 350-375 range.
The journals were radiused but since I didn't have the Pistons he couldn't balance the whole rotating assembly. I bought new 440source rods as stock replacement (since the block didn't come with any) and was leaning toward the KB 162's.
Still need a torque converter, and transmission , was spec'd for automatic. 3:23 suregrip which is also missing.
Cam under .5 sounds good, i will probably reuse a set of 906 heads after I have them checked. The list goes on and on, but it is coming together, as I just picked up a pair of fenders.

ogre

 

[Chryco Psycho]

Well for less then the extra cost of a gasket kit you can use a good Forged piston over hyperutectic
I would use a Lunati Voodoo cam ,
You could have also used a longer 440 rod & A much lighter piston

 

[Xcudame]

My concern is the cylinder bores might be too tight for a forged piston at this point. And I agree, the Lunatic Voodoo cams are some of the best out there.

 

[Chryco Psycho]

You Must Have the pistons to size the bores correctly

 

[pschlosser]

Those prices seem reasonable. Learning how to do some of the work, yourself, particularly, weighing/measuring and validating work done on parts, is well worth the investment in tools and time to learn.

But if you just want to simply pay someone (presuming competent) to "git er done" without your having to learn and invest your time, yea, that will cost you some. But not a great deal.

We are all learning. Some of us are willing to trade our time to work things out, compared to prosperous others with deeper pockets to pay to have it done. Both paths are valid. It is up to us to choose the path (in life, ha ha) that best works for you and your wallet.

 

[moparleo]

If you don't have the pistons yet you can still get the better forged ones and have the block honed to the proper fit. And for the rings you are going to use.
Then balance the whole assembly.
Now is the cheapest time that you will be able to make changes.
You just want it to last after you are done.

 

[heminut]

You Must Have the pistons to size the bores correctly

^^^^That right there! And, the type of rings you will be using to get the correct hone job.

 

[Xcudame]

If the block has been bored and honed the exact over size (i.e . 4.280") and regardless of hone roughness, KB-162 pistons and cast rings (Hastings) will work without further block work. Since the shop prices seem reasonable, if you got the rotating assembly balanced, you'll be perfectly fine. Get a good valve job done on a set of iron heads with either factory induction harden exhaust seats (452s) or exhausts seats installed (906). Also get a Lunatic Voodoo cam between . 475 and . 515 lift. The camshaft will recommend the correct stall torque converter to use.

I don't know your budget, so I'm going the cheap route. With the above combo, you should be in the 350-375hp range your looking for.

 

[TIMINATOR]

That price is on the low quality end of the scale, and probably not even to factory specs with that price point. Probably OK for granny's ride, but not what most of us here are looking for.
Bore size and finish must match piston type and intended usage, and ring choice and BB Mopar decks typically run .012" to .028" different tall to short on the corners.
We BHJ deck all blocks to within .001" because of this. With shaft mount, nonadjustable rockers it's easy to have preload issues if the block isn't square decked. The block really needs to be decked to ensure proper head gasket sealing.
BB mopars have "brick weight" pistons in relation to other big blocks, and even "replacement"
pistons can vary by 100 grams, aftermarket pistons, even more, so balancing is a must. I insist on "porting" the oiling system on all motors to make sure all sharp edges are removed and the intersecting holes line up correctly.
Quality COMPLETE shortblock machinework and balancing should run over $1000.00, and heads, about $800.00 without parts or port work.
On the dragstrip, the difference in machinework quality is .5 or more in ET and about 7 MPH. Fuel mileage and smog output is also affected if it is a factor.
You can buy more and bigger speed parts if you like, but longevity and fuel mileage will still be a factor.
TIMINATOR

 

[Deathproofcuda]

I'd do your homework before installing a set of KB-162s in a stockish 383 block. IIRC, unless the the block has been decked significantly, and using small combustion chamber heads, KB-162s will likely yield a pretty anemic compression ratio. I'd bet the build wouldn't even hit the stock 70 383 HP spec of 335 horsepower.