Remove #2 spark plug issue on 440?

[Mikes72]

Has anyone had this issue? If so, what was your solution?

On my 440, I don’t have enough clearance between the shock tower and the #2 spark plug to get a standard spark plug socket on the plug to remove it. Even if I could slide one on the plug I couldn’t back it out even a fraction before the socket gets snug up against the shock tower.

I’m considering cutting down a socket to fit and using a wrench to turn it. Before I do that do you guys have any other ideas?

Thanks, Mike.

 

[Xcudame]

Mike, the spark plug socket I have has six (6) flats on it like a nut. I've used a 3/4" wrench and just the socket before! If needed, I can provide pictures tomorrow of the socket and wrench. On big block E-Bodies and HP stock exhaust manifolds, I've had best luck changing spark plugs underneath the car! Here in the desert that's a plus on cold concrete!

 

[DetMatt1]

I use the box end of a combination wrench in place of the socket for those tight situations.

 

[Mikes72]

I use the box end of a combination wrench in place of the socket for those tight situations.

Sorry, maybe I didn’t explain my issue right. It’s not that I can’t get the socket handle on the socket once the spark plug socket is on the plug, I cannot get the spark plug socket on the #2 plug at all. The shock tower gets in the way no matter how I try to wiggle it around.

That’s why I’m thinking of cutting down the socket maybe a half inch so it can clear the shock tower and get on the plug. Then use a box wrench to remove the plug.

 

[704406]

Sorry, maybe I didn’t explain my issue right. It’s not that I can’t get the socket handle on the socket once the spark plug socket is on the plug, I cannot get the spark plug socket on the #2 plug at all. The shock tower gets in the way no matter how I try to wiggle it around.

That’s why I’m thinking of cutting down the socket maybe a half inch so it can clear the shock tower and get on the plug. Then use a box wrench to remove the plug.

I use a snap on socket that is 2 3/8" long with the 3/4 hex on the end. loosen the plug with a box end wrench then remove the socket and spin the plug out by hand
DetMatt1 is correct you can just use a 13/16 boxed wrench to loosen the plug then spin it out by hand as well

 

[pschlosser]

Sometimes headers can make changing the plugs a complete nightmare.

But even on factory motors and exhaust manifolds, there can be a plug or two that takes some finesse and/or the right tool to be easy. I've even gone under the car to try and reach plugs from below.

440 E-bodies seem the tightest. Once, I had to remove the exhaust manifold to make room to get a plug out with the tools I had.

 

[Xcudame]

Certainly cut down a socket to make it work. But seems like something is up to specs. Maybe worn or broken motor mounts? The E-Body was designed to easily fit any Chrysler engine into it including obviously the Hemi. If you're dealing with an A-Body, I could definitely see an issue.

I just searched and found this wrench for $20 at Home Depot. It would get the plug out no problem. Probably what DetMatt1 is talking about!

 

[Ricks72Chlgr440]

Certainly cut down a socket to make it work. But seems like something is up to specs. Maybe worn or broken motor mounts? The E-Body was designed to easily fit any Chrysler engine into it including obviously the Hemi. If you're dealing with an A-Body, I could definitely see an issue.

I just searched and found this wrench for $20 at Home Depot. It would get the plug out no problem. Probably what DetMatt1 is talking about!

View attachment 127878

I have TTI headers and TF 240 heads with the angled plugs and the #2 is THE most difficult to get out, bar none. The header tube and the shock tower have teamed up to conspire against a plug change!

 

[Mikes72]

Certainly cut down a socket to make it work. But seems like something is up to specs. Maybe worn or broken motor mounts? The E-Body was designed to easily fit any Chrysler engine into it including obviously the Hemi. If you're dealing with an A-Body, I could definitely see an issue.

I just searched and found this wrench for $20 at Home Depot. It would get the plug out no problem. Probably what DetMatt1 is talking about!

View attachment 127878

This looks like a great option. I'll track one down and try it out.

 

[pschlosser]

Once you figure out the tools, make sure you save them for next time

 

[Steve340]

The spanner in post #7 is an offset double ring spanner. I have one that I sawed the 7/8 end off.
It works fine to loosen or do the final tighten were there is not much room.
Buy a set of them they do come in really handy at times. They are good for intake manifold bolts.

 

[Daves69]

The plug socket I like on the right is a Husky CBD626S. Its shorter than a standard Craftsman 12 point (left) and most other plug sockets I've used.

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Then too shorty plugs.........

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/ACCEL-8197-Spark-Plug-14mm-Thread-375-In-Gasket-Seat-13-16-Hex,284945.html

 

[DetMatt1]

Sorry, maybe I didn’t explain my issue right. It’s not that I can’t get the socket handle on the socket once the spark plug socket is on the plug, I cannot get the spark plug socket on the #2 plug at all. The shock tower gets in the way no matter how I try to wiggle it around.

That’s why I’m thinking of cutting down the socket maybe a half inch so it can clear the shock tower and get on the plug. Then use a box wrench to remove the plug.

That’s why I said don’t use a socket at all where you can’t, just use a box wrench. It’s so easy that while I have the box wrench in my hand for #2 I’ll do 4 & 6 so I don’t have to straighten up and change tools again. You can get those 3 loose with the box wrench from the top side by reaching under the alternator in a matter of 15 seconds and then just twist them out by hand.

 

[Weldguy]

Be sure you use a torque wrench when you tighten that #2 plug.

 

[challenger6pak]

I've had this same issue. It was caused by a motor mount. It wasn't broken. It was worn, as in beat down or flat.

 

[heminut]

I've made special tools for this type of stuff through the years. I pick up odd wrenches and sockets at yard sales for exactly this purpose. A hacksaw, a grinder, a mig welder and some scrap metal and you're good to go!

I guess it rubbed off on my son too. He works on the electronics on F-16s at Davis-Monthan AFB in Tucson and has made a couple of special tools for his job.

 

[Mikes72]

Hey, thanks to everyone who posted ideas and stories. I was able to buy an offset double ring spanner like Steve340 identified and Xcudame suggested. It worked like a charm! In fact, I used it for #2 as well as #4 & #6 just like DetMatt1 posted.

I doubt I’ll need the tool often but it’s the ideal tool for this job.

Mike.

 

[tonysrt]

There are some box wrenches that don't have the steep angle with the one you showed. I have one that is almost flat, you might even try a ratcheting box and open end wrench.

 

[fasjac]

I have TTI headers and TF 240 heads with the angled plugs and the #2 is THE most difficult to get out, bar none. The header tube and the shock tower have teamed up to conspire against a plug change!

Yea, same here. 5/8’s and 3/4 wrench on the hex.
Easy with the aluminum heads and anti seize.

 

[Challenger RTA]

anti seize

Be aware the is an anti seize just for aluminum. I think it is a higher nickel content.