what have you done to your mopar today?

[djais1801]

I'd like to see some more activity here...there's a great thread on FBBO titled same. I had my steering coupler rebuilt so I don't run into a wall when trying to turn.

now she's sleeping til spring.

 

[moparleo]

How did you prep her for storage ? Empty fuel tank and carb ? Jack stands to take the weight off of the tires ?etc...

 

[DetMatt1]

Here's the thread to my winter project. Nothing new to report, been busy with the holidays and family things.
http://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/showthread.php?9255-Winter-project

 

[djais1801]

How did you prep her for storage ? Empty fuel tank and carb ? Jack stands to take the weight off of the tires ?etc...

no, I filled the tank with super, my garage does not get below freezing, so as with my previous cars, I start them at least 1x week during the winter to operating temps...and from various mopar sites I added dryer sheets to the interior and trunk has an open bottle of cat litter.

 

[DetMatt1]

Ethanol is our worst enemy, doesn't matter what octane you should be using fuel additives year round.

 

[djais1801]

Ethanol is our worst enemy, doesn't matter what octane you should be using fuel additives year round.

what fuel additive do you use?

 

[moparleo]

STA-BIL makes very good additives. Several to choose from depending on fuel types, ethanol etc... Also if you use a battery trickler remove the battery from the car, put in a well ventilated area. Besides just starting the car, If up on jack stands, you can work the steering wheel back and forth, if automatic place in neutral to allow the fluid to flow through the transmission. Put it in drive to lubricate the trans output shaft seal. U-joint bearings, gears. Apply brakes off and on to keep wheel cylinders and disc pistons flexible and conditioned. If on the ground try to drive it a little and turn air conditioner on for a while and the heater. Etc... What you are trying to do that you don't do just by starting the engine is to lubricate and bearings and seals that are normally lubricated by regular driving. Other wise you will get leaks and drips in the spring when you take her out of storage. Waxing the car before covering with a high quality dust cover. and many more things. great time to recheck all fluid levels, air pressure, before you put her to sleep.

 

[DetMatt1]

I was using the Lucas brand, tried Sta-bil and then found some good chatter on FCBO about using two cycle engine oil that's TC-W3 rated. 1 oz per 5 gallons of gas every fill up. Ethanol absorbs moisture which will rust the metal parts and it also reacts with the rubber hose that we commonly use on our classics. Buy a new Edelbrock carb and it even tells you that it is not recommended that ethanol of any percentage is used. I think you can even say goodbye to your warranty iirc.

 

[moparleo]

You would think it would be to the manufacturers advantage to use gaskets and seal that are resistant to ethanol since a lot of gasoline is sold during certain parts of the year contains it. Maybe we should all, just in case modernize our fuel systems as much as we can since we have no control over what the gas companies are selling us. Most manufacturers will tell you if their product is compatible with ethanol.

 

[mmissile]

Ordering parts for the current build. The others are in hibernation/suspended animation.

 

[challenger6pak]

I defended it against my neighbors Peacocks. They want to use it for a place to roost.

 

[68bigblock]

just finished putting in a new front end kit from PST, and new torsion bars from mopar perf. I left the center link out cause i'm going to tackle the rear main seal tomorrow.

 

[DetMatt1]

Nice work! I don't envy you having to do the rear main while in the engine is in the car. Best of luck with it.

 

[challenger6pak]

I agree. Not fun. It is worse without a lift.

 

[DetMatt1]

68bigblock, are you going to use the stock retainer and urethane lip seal. Did you buy side seals or are you using silicone? Any tricks up your sleeve?

 

[68bigblock]

I do have a lift, I planned on using the stock retainer I bought a lip seal set from the 440 source. I don't have any tricks this is the first one I've done, is there something I should watch for?

 

[DetMatt1]

Well they can be problematic. Did you get the side seals from them too? Basically the cleaning and prep before assembly needs to be perfect. When you think you have all the mating surfaces of the retainer to the block 100% clean and oil free, clean them again. There are good threads on several forums with tips and tricks for doing this successfully. Spend some time seeing what others have done. I myself am having repeated issues with the 440 in my Imperial and at this point I'm fine with the leak even though its worse than when I initially started.

 

[68bigblock]

I did do some reading and there are a lot of mixed results, and opinions on types of seals to use. I don't know any history on this motor and my concern is what has been done before. if the retainers have been filled with silicone the fixed side retainer will be all but impossible to clean or even getting the seal out with out removing the crank. never know until it gets opened up.

 

[DetMatt1]

That's for sure. The timing cover was off my 440 and you can actually loosen all the main caps and back the bolts out most of the way and gently pry the crank up(or down if on the lift) far enough that you can get the seal out easier. Tighten them back up after you put the top half of the new seal in. My engine guy is a friend and he helped me do it first time around while it was on the stand. I can't remember exactly why but he also gave the nose of the crank a whack at some point while tightening the main caps back down. Something about resetting the thrust bearing. I made the mistake of using an aftermarket billet aluminum housing that time around and what a big mistake that was, to call it a leak would be an understatement! Another friend is a self employed mechanic and I hired him to put the stock housing back in and get it all sealed up for me. No leaks that time until a couple of months of regular driving and a long road trip. Like I said, now it leaks worse than it did originally. Fixing it this time isn't real high on the priority list...

 

[challenger6pak]

Matt, I have seen a lot of oil pan leaks blamed on the rear main seal. If you use cork pan gaskets, they shrink after use and need retightened. Have you checked your pan?