1970 440 Cuda slow crank

[mohype2010]

I have a 1970 Plymouth Cuda that has a slow cranking issue. After cranking two or three times it would stop cranking.The battery terminals would get hot too. The Battery cables are new (Positive and Negative), Starter, ballast resistor, coil, ignition module are new. The ground areas are from the negative cable to the radiator support, Right side cylinder head to the firewall. Need Help!!!:eusa_think:

 

[74 challenger]

just asking but is the battery any good or the right cc amps for a 440?

 

[mohype2010]

What would be the right CC Amps?

 

[74 challenger]

im thinking around 700ccamps but i could be wrong,is your timing right?

 

[moparleo]

Starting problem

:eusa_think:Move the negative cable (ground wire) to the front of the cylinder head. If it still slow cranks after charging ( overnight on lowest amp setting ), recheck all connections to starter, solenoid, and battery. Excessive resistance is what causes your cables to get hot. The starter may also be defective. You need to do a load test on the battery after a thorough charging to see if the battery is any good. Must test to over 9.6 volts under load. Must have 12.5 or more volts to test properly. If everything passes, than you need to have the starter checked for amperage draw when cranking. Question though... How did the car start before you replaced all of these parts? What modifications have been done to the car? What was the reason for changing all of these parts ?
Also, what is the group size of the battery ? Should be a 24 or 27.

 

[mohype2010]

The timing is correct. Its not a new battery but its a recharged battery with 800 cca.

 

[moparleo]

Have the battery load tested and if it checks out ok, you need to rerout the ground cable to the engine block or head for proper ground. Also follow the above recommended checks. What was the reason for replacing all of these parts? What is the timing set at and how was it checked. Motor running, vacuum disconnected, idle speed at recommended RPM?

 

[mohype2010]

The engine is from a 1974 New Yorker. Its a stock 440 4bbl. Timing is set on zero and it was checked with a timing light. The Battery cables are new (Positive and Negative) were old and had signs of corrosion. The Starter was replaced because the tip of it broke off while cranking so the armature shaft was wobbly . I replaced the ignition module because there wasn't any spark.

 

[moparleo]

Thats great. Did it start before
I know there are a lot of questions, but when trying do diagnose a problem without having the car to look at makes it hard. Diagnosing any problem is a process of elimination. Most times it is the simpleist thing. We are going off of the information that you are giving us to try to figure what the problem is. Please try to follow the recommendations that I gave you so we can figure this out for you.
Thanks

 

[mohype2010]

It did start before.

 

[moparleo]

OK Let me know when you can do some of the things I suggested.
Thanks

 

[mohype2010]

I clean the Ground Area to bare metal. I have a good crank now but just wont start up. I got a Brand new battery yesterday.

 

[moparleo]

Do you have spark now ? And if you set the timing with the engine running at 0 degrees. That is too far retarded. If the vacuum advance was connected it is even worse. So was the timing was checked when the engine ran before ? or after ?

 

[mohype2010]

Key on 6.02, Cranking 7.92-8.02

After thinking about it. It did start up before I put the dash in with the old wiring harness. The engine, trans, front & rear light harnesses are new. I might have a electronic somewhere in the old harness??

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Tried the ammeter method... still the same results. I check the voltage at the positive side coil- 5.6v, at the ballast resistor- 5.6v, at the connector to the bulkhead- 5.6v, from the bulkhead to the ignition switch- 5.6v, at the ammeter- 11.35v at positive & negative side. on the voltage regulator and alternator field Im getting 11.35v.

I have two ecu and tested the ecu bolted to the firewall and the ecu not bolted to the firewall.
The one bolted to the firewall has the first results.
Key on & ECU connected:
1) 5.6v at the coil positive.
2) 1.5v at the coil negative.
3) 12v at the Ballast resistor

and the one not bolted to the firewall has the second results
Key on & ECU disconnected:
1) 12v at Coil positive and negative posts.
2) 12v at the ECU pins where applicable

The ecu that wasnt bolted down, I pressed against the firewall and I still had 12v until I moved it to bare metal and the voltage went back to 5.6 volts.

I also found that the (dark blue/white line) wire from the alternator to the bulkhead to the ignition switch, key wrng buzzer, oil pressure indicator, brake wrng lt was fried.

I repaired the two wires but Im still getting the same results

​

 

[moparleo]

Did you move the negative battery cable to a bare metal on the head or block yet? The biggest problem with old Mopars was poor grounding. If you don't have a good ground, nothing will work properly. A poor ground will lead to excessive resistance in the wires which causes the wires to overheat and melt. Make sure the battery reads at least 12.5 volts at rest. If not, recharge till it does. If the engine will crank at full speed, we can do a "hotwire" attempt to start. Take a jumper wire and go from the positive stud on the starter relay where the positive battery cable attaches, to the plus side of the coil and crank the engine to start with the key.
One thing though. Have you changed over to electronic ignition with the proper harness adapter yet? or is it still points? You never said what type of ignition system you have.

 

[moparleo]

Your readings are not making sense. Also make a jumper wire to bypass the ballast resistor. Just connect to both sides of the resistor. Also you say that the engine,headlamp and tail light harness are new? Did you do the replacement yourself or someone else. Was the dash harness tested before the other harnesses were changed?