"Building My Dream" by 72 Chally

[72chally440]

Engine is in now, but I'm having issues getting it to sit level. TTI headers are hitting the floorboard on drivers side. Driver side of engine sitting too high. I found a problem with the Dynatech mity mount pin not inserting fully into k member. Changed mounts to stock style and mounts sit flush now, but driver side is still too high. I replaced trans mount with poly type. I have loosened mounts and lifted engine with hoist and cannot get this engine level. The pics below show engine in bay (Looks Good) and from underneath car showing the driver side header is too high and tight to floorboard. Driver side header to floorboard clearance is about 1/8 inch. Passenger side header to floorboard clearance is correct at about 5/8 inch. The level in front of car shows the oil pan is not level either, so I dont think the header was made wrong. A level across carb shows it off level the same amount. I checked k member and it is level. All preinstall measurements suggested by TTI for proper position of engine on kmember are dead on. Any suggestions on how to lower the drivers side???

 

[quapman]

I've had this before, but not this bad...

Are both rubbers the same thickness?

There is a ton of slop in the mounts to the block. It would be a huge PITA, but maybe loosen the bolts, align where you like, then tighten them?

 

[72chally440]

Thanks for reply quapman. I am going to try your suggestion again. Curiously, I don't seem to have "a ton of slop" in my mounts. I don't have my original mounting bolts, so I double checked mine thinking maybe I got bolts that were too thick thus not enough play. They are all 7/16 as I believe they are supposed to be. I found on another site someone shimmed the passenger side to allow room for driver side to drop. I dunno maybe that'll work

 

[moparleo]

I would bet that since it is a 318 K-member, that your problem is with the factory welded mount. Here is the last resort. It will work so don't get scared. Loosen all 4 K-member bolts and lower it with a floor jack enough to put a few large flat washers or shims between the top of the K-member and the bottom of the sub-frame on the side that is too high. This will lower the engine by whatever thickness of shim that you use. Tighten back up and problem solved. Or replace K-member with an earlier big block one.

 

[72chally440]

Okay, I thought about that moparleo, but wasnt sure how prudent that idea was. Like you said, I think that will be my last resort. I' m gonna pull the mounts one more time, modify them slightly, shim the passenger side and then try the washers on the Drivers side K-Member if that doesnt work. Thanks for input guys.

 

[72chally440]

entered in error

 

[72chally440]

Okay....I tried shimming and swapping insulators again to no avail. Shims moved engine too far to driver side and caused header to contact the steering box. At my wits end. I'm about to try Moparleo's suggestion about spacing the K Member a little lower. Has anyone tried this before. Does it affect steering linkage or anything else I should be aware of?? Another suggestion I got from a rodder was to make a shorter solid insulator on the drivers side.. Your thoughts???

 

[quapman]

I'm super stumped. How is the oil pump clearance at the k-member? I'm doing a pump swap and noticed there's not much room there.

 

[72chally440]

Shims in place. I was afraid to go any lower. They did provide more clearance for driver side header, but it is still not as much clearance as the passenger side, which could be QC by TTI. As you can see in the pic of level setting on carb it is still slightly off level. Prior to shim it was 3/4 bubble off level. The body is level side to side from front to back, so the carb should be level too. I'm happier with the results now, but still wonder how/why it was off so much and what the shims might affect. Quapman my Oil pump has plenty of clearance. Only place I find tight is header to steering box.

 

[73Machine]

Anymore updates on the Resto, just got done going through this whole thread! Excellent job!!! Also did you figure out anything on the clips for that front header panel trim piece?

 

[72chally440]

Sorry, Wife put me on a Mopar time out for the holidays (lol). It took a few months, but Laysons came through with proper clips for front Grille trim. (Laysons Part number: 356-40713--- Description:Grill molding clip for Challenger grill upper molding part #PM-MM649 Front Grills / Grill Mldgs. 72-74 Challenger).
Things are moving rapidly now. Lots of customization to wiring harness and other things due to number of non-factory performance parts. (i.e. Griffon radiator with electric fans, electric fuel pump, one wire alternator with elimination of amp meter, Lokar throttle and kickdown cable installs with customized bracket... the list goes on)
I'll post some pics soon

 

[72chally440]

Heres some photos of recent work. Had an old Charger driveshaft cut down to 45.6 and balanced by JE Reel Pomona, Ca. Looks good.
Painless Classic wire loom to protect/hide wiring
Griffon Radiator with Summit overflow bottle.
Installed aux fuse panel and relays for fans and Fuel pump. Probably add a Brake vacuum pump later.

 

[mpdlawdog]

I finally got my cpp booster on my car but have a few questions...mind if I send you a PM??

 

[72chally440]

I finally got my cpp booster on my car but have a few questions...mind if I send you a PM??

no problem with PM.
I just drove the car today for the first time. Amazing. Only two real problems were power steering box ( the one part I gambled on working without restoration. What a bad idea) and the Rock Auto heater core leaked horribly. Two jobs I dont look forward to re-doing. I think I'll go with firm feel 16:1 power steering box. I just by passed the heater core for now... kinda pissed at that.

 

[72chally440]

First time driven on the road since 1982.
List of to do after first day of driving
- Replace leaking power steering box
- Adjust Lokar cables/carb bracket. After first run apparent that my home made bracket needs slight alteration to get proper kickdown adjustment and line pressure.
- some electrical gremlins in lighting
- Brake Bleeding and probably need vacuum boost
- Gonna need PCV setup. Breathers on valve covers are not baffled and keep spitting oil onto headers
Overall very pleased. Mighty powerful 440, trans shifted like a champ until lokar cable problem arose.
Aeromotive external fuel pump is very loud, but works perfect. TTI exhaust sounds beautiful, Griffin Radiator and fan setup is perfect for this setup. Jury still out on CPP brake system . No judgement on that until system is properly bled and vaccum is improved.

View attachment 47375

View attachment 47376

 

[quapman]

You'll need a PCV to keep from blowing seals, too.

 

[DetMatt1]

It looks fantastic!

 

[72chally440]

You'll need a PCV to keep from blowing seals, too.

Thanks DetMatt1 / Quapman
I get the need for PCV system...However it is impossible to find info on what is the correct PCV valve to use. Yes there is a $129 adjustable option by M.E. Wagner (too much for my taste). I don't really want to try trial and error with the hundreds of PCV valves out there either. I did find one good article where someone used a 66 Corvette PCV for their stroked 440. I am going to get that unless someone here has a better recommendation.

 

[quapman]

Any PCV that fits in one of your VC grommets will work just fine. Leave a vent in the other. Most aftermarket VCs use a Chevy style PCV. The business end of the hose goes on the giant vacuum port on your carb.

 

[72chally440]

TH

Any PCV that fits in one of your VC grommets will work just fine. Leave a vent in the other. Most aftermarket VCs use a Chevy style PCV. The business end of the hose goes on the giant vacuum port on your carb.

Thanks Again. I'm going to do just that. Part number for the Corvette PCV and for a modified 440 appear to be the same Spectre Performance 4298. I will post a followup when I receive it and get it installed. I think it will actually help idle slightly and stop the breather from spitting.